Gauging wheelsets

RRDOC posted:

I have a few Weaver covered hoppers that consistently spark going over an older Gargraves turnout.  They either cause the train to jerk or stop.   I checked the wheel gauge and indeed they were all too tight by about 3/32".  I was able to pry them back into gauge, but it was a pain to do so without introducing a wobble in the wheelset.  I then would have to manually pull on the offending wheel repeatedly until it was square.   Does anyone have a better way to re-gauge wheels while keeping them true?   Any tools or jigs you use?  These have needlepoint axles and I was reluctant to use a wheelpuller for fear of damaging the needlepoint.

Thanks

Bob

If you have the earlier Weaver plastic freight car trucks, the wheels in those trucks are too thick, and will definitely spark. The only "fix" is to change-out those wheel sets and replace them with the Weaver wheel sets used in their die cast freight car trucks. Due to the problem ov "too thick" wheels in the plastic trucks, Weaver stopped offering those plastic trucks, and only the well detailed, in gauge, die cast trucks were mounted on all their 3-Rail freight cars.

They are plastic trucks with metal wheelsets.  I have not yet had the chance to test them after re-gauging, but will do so.

I have other Weaver cars with plastic trucks that do not have this problem.  Hopefully re-gauging the offending wheelsets will fix the problem.

Bob

Hello Bob.......Until you get your wheels fixed, try painting the side of the center rail (where wheel contact is made) with nail polish. That should get you by for a little while.  I have some extra Weaver wheel sets you can try.

Clem 

RRDOC posted:

They are plastic trucks with metal wheelsets.  I have not yet had the chance to test them after re-gauging, but will do so.

I have other Weaver cars with plastic trucks that do not have this problem.  Hopefully re-gauging the offending wheelsets will fix the problem.

Bob

You might have misunderstood my post. The metal wheels that come in the older plastic freight trucks are too thick, i.e. the the front to back thickness of the wheels is too great when compared to the metal wheel sets in the Weaver die cast trucks (the die cast truck have different metal wheel sets). 

In my opinion, all the re-gaugeing in the world will not fix the root cause. Been there, done that.  The wheels themselves are simply way too thick. Take a pair of digital calipers and measure the wheel thickness between those that come in the plastic trucks with those wheels that come in the die cast trucks. 

Hot water

OK.  Gotcha.  

They do look a little heftier than the Atlas wheels I was comparing them with.  I was hoping that correcting the gauge would pull them away from the large sheet metal center rail complex in the gargraves turnout (at red arrow).  I'll pull out my other Weaver cars and see what the wheels look like.

Anyway, thanks!

Clem

Good idea.  I've also tried strips of black electrical tape.   Eventually I'll just replace those old Gargraves with Ross switches and be done with it!

Bob

Well, I got home from work tonight and decided to test the newly re-gauged car on the layout. Problem solved!  No more sparks and shorts. 

So so back to the original question, does anyone have a better way to re-gauge the wheels while keeping them true?

Bob

Could try cutting the axles in the middle and put them back together with a snug sleeve on the axle, spreading the gauge slightly. But you would also have to shorten the needlepoints - IF there is enough material and still maintain clearance in the truck frame. You can chuck the cut axle in a drill and use a Dremel tool to bevel the needlepoint down, while the drill turns it. Can also turn the flanges down a bit. Maybe more trouble than it's worth, but maybe possible. I've done similar things on some wheels.

Bob,

Hot Water is correct.  The wheel flanges on these wheelsets in the plastic trucks are way to thick. 

I have used a battery terminal puller on the Weaver wheelsets to pull the wheel into gauge.  This works, but it takes a little practice to avoid a wobbled wheelset.

What you are essentially doing with pulling the wheel out a little is having the car ride more into the flanges.  Don't be surprised if you start hearing the flanges wearing against your track as the car travels your layout.

I found it a good temporary fix until I find the better wheelsets or new diecast trucks/couplers all together.  I'm hoping a manufacturer will offer the Weaver diecast trucks, but I'm not holding my breath. 

Larry