getting stated in airbrushing

Even though I had airbrushed for years. I purchased a Passche H3 airbrush for simplicity. Not every job requires a fancy double action brush. It’s a single action that is easy to learn on and to me what’s most important. Easy to clean up or disassemble for a real thorough cleaning. Other than weathering. It’s my go to for basic painting. The Big A site has plenty of deals on them. Best to get the package that includes everything you need to get started minus the compressor.

A cheap single-action is OK for starting, but you will soon want something better.   I have three-  Paasche Model H single-action (good for scenery, all-over painting), a Badger Omni 3000 bottom feed double-action brush (draws from a jar or paint bottle) and the Omni 4000 with a paint cup on top (used for weathering, small jobs and painting rails).

The Omni line has one set of needle/tips that work for heavier acrylics as well as light solvent paints.

GOOD single-action and double-action brushes are similar from a cost standpoint.  But the important thing is get a good compressor, I use a Paasche D500-SR, with a pressure regulator and water separator.  It is really quiet  yet does not have a tank, instead it responds to when the brush is activated.

Been discussed several times before, this forum.  You may want to do a Forum search.  Unfortunately a lot of good threads have been deleted. IMO, Mike CT. 

I started airbrushing when I was painting Lexan slot car bodies using Parma FasKolor acrylic paints (like Createx).  These acrylics are thick, and must be sprayed at high pressure (about 60 PSI un-thinned).  Parma International sold the Thayer and Chandler T 70 airbrush.  It worked so well on pretty much everything, that I bought  second one.  I spray model train acrylics at about 20 PSI. 

@Scotie posted:

Been looking for a local painter with no success so I figure its time to bite the bullet and learn to airbrush. Won't be doing a lot of it. Any recommendations for the best equipment to begin to learn? I think a single action external mix sounds like a good start.

What is it you want to paint?

Useful information here. Thanks!

I've got an Island Hobbies P-54 LIRR coach in cast resin and a couple of brass steam engines that don't need a repair but cab roof and etc need to be changed to black for starters.

Eventually if I ever get to it I'l like to learn how to add some weathering.

For most people a single action brush is fine. Not all that different than painting with a rattle can. Light coats. Above all, clean, clean, clean, when you are done painting.

Has anyone tried the system that micromark has that uses compressed can hooked to paint jar? Looks simple for a starter.

@Bill Grafmiller posted:

Has anyone tried the system that micromark has that uses compressed can hooked to paint jar? Looks simple for a starter.

Hi Bill, ~Air Brush painting is not as easy as it may appear.  The Micro set will not provide enough PSI for quality work.  You also don't need an air brush for weathering.  Before you invest, just to give you an idea of how you can obtain good results with a rattle can.  Take a piece material or a model part, old box car, and place it about 20 inches out from where you'll hold your spray can.  You'll get a very light coat on the material.  The further back you go from the material, the lighter the coat of paint.

If you are interested in really fine scale detail of very small parts, you can also get good results painting by hand using Vallejo or AK paints,  I know many modelers that spent money on air brush systems, only to use them two or three times.  Then put them away.  Too much pre and post work. 

If interested, send me a email and I'll show you engines, buildings and figures painted, and or weathered by hand...

Thanks guys for all the info. I'm not rushing into anything yet, a lot to think about.

@Bill Grafmiller posted:

Has anyone tried the system that micromark has that uses compressed can hooked to paint jar? Looks simple for a starter.

I have used these and find them to work quite well.  They are also very easy to clean.  I use Windex.  They are a bit pricey, and you have to buy two models if you want a wide pattern and a narrow pattern. MM does not sell the nozzles and needles separately.  (Nice marketing move.)  Their portability (they have no air hose and no compressor) is a real plus. The entire brush is the size of a travel can of shaving cream.   This makes them very easy to use on the layout for in situ weathering.

Here is an MTH H-10 I weathered in about fifteen minutes:

I used just the narrow pattern for the above.

The pressure is just fine for spraying acrylic washes

I have been using a Paasche H for over fifty years now and have not wanted for anything more. Next tip, find a good air compressor with a reservoir, you will be doing yourself a favor!!!

I like to buy tools, and do not begrudge the expense as money not spent on trains. I enjoy using quality tools more than cheap ones. I bought a Paasche Talon set with multiple tips and nozzles. This is a double-action, internal mix gun. Based on the research I did, it was a Best Buy. I bought a very quiet light weight Metabo compressor at Lowes that I also use with my brad nailer. Decades ago I had a Badger single-action gun with a W A Brown compressor. The Metabo has a tank and regulator (and water trap), which provides a much higher quality air flow than the old no-tank, no-regulator Brown. The double action does require a small amount a practice to gently start the flow of paint, but then avoids that burst of paint that my old single action gun often started with. Personally, I find the Talon a beautiful tool to look at that is a pleasure to use. Even the cloth covered hose that came with the brush gives me pleasure--much nicer than the plastic one with the Badger.

As someone who has painted cars  and a few antique tractors I used a dual action paint gun. Much easier to control once you get the hang of it. Airbrush would be the same. Practice makes perfect but buy a good one as well as a good compressor.

Well I do not plan on airbrushing at this time. I was wondering how these other systems would work for a beginner.  I do have a air brush I bought some years ago and it's still is in the box never used it. Money not will spent. I even took a airbrush class . I guess I got excited when someone on the forum mentioned airbrushing stuff. Help me hanna

I got a Pasche H many years ago perhaps 50.    I still have it and have replaced tips many times and seals once.   Pasche sells parts.    I did try a double action when I first started and I could not get the hang of that and stuck with the single action.   Over the years I have accumulated 2 more Model H brushes.     I don't paint often, maybe once a month or so depending on what is happening so I don't really need a professional double action.    As mentioned above a single action is much like a spray can but  you have control of pressure and do not run out.

One important thing I think needs to be added to recommendations on the the compressor is a regulator.    This is a valve device that you use to set the air pressure going to the airbrush.    Most compressors go right to 100 PSI when filling the tank and that is what is in the tank (reservoir).    The regulator lets you step that down to what you need for the airbrush

I have plenty of tools I haven't used in years that I consider money well spent. One example is a set of snap-ring pliers. Even if I use one once in ten years, it's money well spent. Have you tried taking snap rings out and putting them in without them? I have. I bought my airbrush a year before I first used it. So what? Every new skill has a learning curve. Not beating oneself up about early efforts is probably the most important skill to learn. You Tube is a great learning resource, and you can practice on cheap stuff if you are worried about ruining something. Train shows often have bargain cars, especially if damaged. I have experimented on old HO stuff I still have but I don't model in HO anymore. I suspect if you pick a project you want that you can't buy ready-to-run, you might get fired up about learning to use your airbrush. I still have yet to complete the loco that was my original reason for buying my airbrush, but so what? I'm having fun, and that's what counts.

@Bill Grafmiller posted:

Has anyone tried the system that micromark has that uses compressed can hooked to paint jar? Looks simple for a starter.

I don't know if I had what you're referring too, but many years ago Micro-Mark had compressed air cans that could be attached to a single-action airbrush in lieu of a compressor. I got a few to experiment with airbrushing, and that turned out to be a terrible idea. It worked so poorly it turned me off airbrushing for five years.

I picked it back up again last summer with an actual compressor, along with an adjustable PSI regulator valve and humidity trap. What a world of difference that made - airbrushing has become one of my favorite tasks when completing a model.

To emphasize what others have said, you will spend more time cleaning the brush than painting. I think the results are worth it.

~Chris

I have enjoyed airbrushing since I started experimenting the spring of 2022. My first few projects, using a inexpensive airbrush and good air compressor were ok, but I was using $1-$3 acrylics to get used to the characteristics of airbrusing. Since I have repainted dozens of tankers, boxcars, cabooses and 2 diesel locomotives with good results. 

I still use multi surface cheap paints on many projects but the locomotives I used Badger Model Flex paint with excellent results. I did add a pressure tank with digital regulator which allows me to paint large items without overheating the compressor.

I started with a battery-operated single action one my Wife bought for me on Amazon.   That comes in real handy if you want to spray stuff on the layout already, like track.

After a year or so, thinking I liked this, I purchased the Harbor Freight duel action kit.  I like it, BUT it does not have a reservoir.   I do wish it had that.  I find myself pausing during stokes to allow the compressor to catch up.  One of these days I'll buy a real airbrush kit.

I have done multiple train cars and engines with this.  I find that Tamiya paint works well and is the easiest to clean up with water.  If I need REALLY good color selection I use Tru-Color.  That cleans up with Acetone.

Have Fun!

Ron

The articles I read before I bought (including guys testing expensive Iwata guns) recommended getting a real rather than hobby compressor. Mine was somewhere near $150--more than the Talon airbrush set, which was around $100. As I mentioned, the compressor is not just hobby--the brad nailer uses the same one. It is a pleasure to use. This is the 3rd compressor I've purchased. I mentioned the W A Brown hobby compressor ($50 back around 1980), but I also bought a large, heavy, noisy Harbor Freight job that I will never use again (maybe $150?). Actually , my wife also bought me something to carry in the trunk to pump up tires, so I guess that's four! Buying the best one first would have been a smarter move, if t had been available and I knew about it.

I tried the aerosol cans to drive an airbrush. I tried a cheap harbor freight external mix airbrush. These are a waste of money. If you don't want to buy a quality airbrush and compressor, use rattle cans. I think I've heard soaking them  in hot water makes them work better.

My recommendation based on personal experience and discussions with a professional model builder/painter would be a Passche model H single action airbrush with a #3 tip and a hobby compressor with a tank, regulator and gauge. The airbrush is available in the price range of $50-$75 and the compressor in the $125 range so for about $200 you can have a useful tool that is very capable of painting models and last for years. I have Passche airbrushes that are 45 years old. Having said that airbrush painting requires developing skills in airbrush techniques, mixing paint and keeping equipment clean. The more you use any tool the more comfortable you should become using it. I would also recommend picking one brand of paint and working with that brand of paint as you develop airbrushing skills. One last note on the recommendation of the Passche model H airbrush it is a very simple yet robust airbrush that is easy to clean, parts readily available and inexpensive. Best wishes

Lee Gustafson

A small air compressor, with tank(s), can be purchased at a local auto parts store.  Usually 90 pounds max pressure, there should be an adjustable, out-put pressure regulator.  Most air brushes, should operate 10 to 20lbs, or less. You would have to add a water trap, and a good hose, with "quick couple" ends, both male and female. The air compressor is used to fill, (top-off), air for car/truck/bicycle tires.  There was an odd fitting to adapt the air brush hose to the compressor hose.

Note: I purchase a relatively cheap compressor, the assortment of quick couplers, and a good hose, quickly equaled the compressor cost.   

Some maintenance, occasionally (special compressor) oil has to be added to the compressor.  I purchased an air brush, complete in a wooden storage case, from the internet.  An air brush appears, to be an item, that is used a few times, and sold. Nail, and make-up, salons use air brushes.  There are three different size tips/needles. Very small needle/tip is used for ink. I use the largest needle/tip for acrylic paint.

Cleaning an air brush is another interesting project, lacquer thinner does well, though it can be corrosive, especially the small o-ring parts.

I have purchased additional air brush parts from the internet.

Acrylic, (water based paint) v.s. Oil base paint is another discussion. Most air brushes will do both.  Dual action, allows both variable air, and paint, flow.  There should be tutorials on the internet.

Best wishes with your airbrush projects.  Mike CT.