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I am putting a military base on my layout and would like to surround it with chain link fence.  Ideas welcome.  It is a large area so I am looking for the best/economical ideas. I want it to look as real as possible, I just do not want to spend hundreds of dollars to do it if possible. 

 

 

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I use window screening - its not metal but nylon or plastic and easy to work.  The "mesh distance" works out to about 3+ inches which is a bit larger than the real world, but it is cheap, easy to use, and looks good. 

 

I last used it on my small parking lot.  You can see it in the pictures although it fades into the background which is, I think, what you want a fence to do in most cases.

 

https://ogrforum.com/d...nt/13256332701309526

JIm,

I use nylon or fiberglass window screen like Lee mentioned. I use Plastruct TB-1 or TB-2 plastic coated wire for posts, top bars and braces. I use sowing string for barbed wire. I usually paint everything silver. If you paint the sowing string with a paint brush, it fuzzes up a little and looks like barbs. I have a template I made to make large sections of fence. The Plastruct plastic coated wire can be purchased in 30-inch lengths. I use CA to glue everything together. I build the fence frame first and paint it. I paint the screen and install it later using CA. I have provided fence sections for customers as long as three feet.

 

Alan Graziano 

Slightly off the subject

I recently bought Gorilla super glue,C A- Right?  for joining some dissimilar pieces

I started with it to try to fix one of my wifes ceramic pieces for her Christmas display,and a few other pieces

I haven't been able to get that **** stuff to hold ANYTHING together

I was thinking the old regular superglue,you take a broken arm off a little ceramic piece,you put a drop on it,and preso,glued for life

This crap,I haven't gotten it to work on anything

http://www.gorillatough.com/in...e=gorilla-glue-guide

There it is,the superglue

Now the gorilla glue,that works OK,I've joined a couple pieces together,and so far so good

Now that super glue ---That's CA right?

I'm ready to throw it out

Hi Alan!

I went the window screen method.  Replaced some windows on my house (non-train-related project) and kept some of the old aluminum screen.  Cut rectangles on a diagonal and used small wood dowels (from craft store) painted silver/gray as the posts.  Used some of strands of the screening to tie the screen to the posts.

 

- Steve (hope the picture is not too fuzzy)

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I say go with Dennis's kit. Brennans Model Railroading Products.

Support your hobby, buy from your LHS but also from the little guys.

Also the most realistic fence that I have seen so far.

 

Once you get the kit and the concepts down, his refills are only about a $1. a foot.

And you could probably source the stuff a little cheaper but why?

And he has a great writing style that is also very instructional. 

 

And Gorilla Glue makes moisture cure urethane and also a Cyanoacrylate Gel

 

FMH









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Yup! They both CA. Henkel makes most of the CA in the world now and much of the stuff you get at hobby shops is all private labeled Henkel CA. I tried Gorilla CA too and found it had a slow cure time and did respond to accelerator.

 

Super glue ages quickly. As it ages its cure times get longer and longer. Keep it in a freezer if you're not going to use it regularly. CA also kicks by moisture so it absorbs atmospheric moisture and starts kicking, but slowly. It's manufactured in freezing temperatures so it doesn't kick in the machine, which would be bad... very, very bad.

 

I use accelerator almost all the time using the spray head's tube as a way to get the accelerator to the work piece. Eventually the tube gets hardened CA on the end and has to be thrown out or cleaned off.

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