Got my new K-Line 0-4-0 Dockside with tender. Great Engine! with sticky E-switch??

Whenever asking for advice about equipment, it helps to add product number and pictures.  To explain my confusion here, for example, in railroad terminology, a "docksider" usually only has the coal carrying part built directly as part of the engine, not as a separate tender.  If my guess is correct, your purchase (with a separately connected tender) was actually a K-Line PRR K4 switcher?  If so, I'm sure others will be along that can answer your questions.

Chuck

Manny- pix and model numbers will help. Sounds like you have the A5 0-4-0?

Without knowing the specific locomotive, all I can suggest is that that I suspect in this model K-Line used an electronic reverse unit so there is no physical switch to get stuck or to be serviced. Could be a board repair, in kind replacement, or new retrofit is in your future.

My apologies for the confusion, it is indeed a K-Line A5 0-4-0,  Pennsy, #94.

What is really strange is that if I run the engine alone, without the tender lashed and attached, the forward/reverse works much more consistently.  Not perfectly, but fairly close.

But, when I lash and attach the tender and run it, that is when the forward/reverse becomes much more inconsistent.

Any thoughts about this?

If it turns out that I can't fix it myself very simply, then I will probably just send it back.  I'm through buying brand new stuff at retail price that doesn't work, and then spending money to try to fix it.

My only other option is, that given the fact that I rarely try to back up a train (I don't use a railroad yard or end track), I could just lock the selector switch in forward, and forget it.

Unfortunate that such a really beautiful smooth running steamer has this issue.

Mannyrock

@Mannyrock posted:

If it turns out that I can't fix it myself very simply, then I will probably just send it back.  I'm through buying brand new stuff at retail price that doesn't work, and then spending money to try to fix it.

Mannyrock

Mannyrock,

What brand new stuff?  This locomotive and tender (K3180-0094W) are almost 20 years old.  Most electro-mechanical things that are this old need at least a little tender loving care, even if they've just come out of the box for the first time.  Grease gets hard, oil evaporates, contacts need adjustment, etc.

Patience and perseverance.

Mike

The K-Line A4 has an electronic E-Unit, and it should be easy to find and cheap to replace.  I think I have several in my part drawers.

I dunno Mike.  A defective electronic e-unit is a defective component, not something that can be remedied by lubing or tweaking.

John, thanks very much for that information about a replacement.  If this issue does not straighten out soon, I may try to price the replacement unit.

I think I'm going to really clean off the wheels, clean off the rollers, clean the track, and just see if that helps.

The rollers on both the engine and tender are coated with something that looks like gold paint.  After just a few minutes of run time, the "paint" is wearing off down the center of the rollers, and a very mild burned paint smell is present.  Maybe some type of anti-rust coating from the factory?

Thanks,

Mannyrock

@PRR1950 posted:

Whenever asking for advice about equipment, it helps to add product number and pictures.  To explain my confusion here, for example, in railroad terminology, a "docksider" usually only has the coal carrying part built directly as part of the engine, not as a separate tender.  If my guess is correct, your purchase (with a separately connected tender) was actually a K-Line PRR K4 switcher?  If so, I'm sure others will be along that can answer your questions.

Chuck

Hey Chucky! WTH is a "K-Line PRR K4 switcher"? Cause now You confused me and many other Pennsy fans.

Yep, I screwed up.  I, like others have said, should have referred to PRR A5.  I think the "4" in 0-4-0 got me thinking about a K4.

Chuck

What transformer are you using?  Some of the electronic reversing boards need to see zero volts before they will cycle.  Mechanical e-units will cycle when the voltage drops below that needed to energize the e-unit (typically 4 volts or so).  Some of the postwar transformers have problems producing zero volts.  The throttle handle's internal wiper must move completely off the coil to get zero.

@Bob posted:

Mechanical e-units will cycle when the voltage drops below that needed to energize the e-unit (typically 4 volts or so).

Actually, the drum of a typical Lionel three position mechanical e-unit does not rotate on power loss, but on power application.

@Bob posted:

Some of the postwar transformers have problems producing zero volts.  The throttle handle's internal wiper must move completely off the coil to get zero.

All postwar Lionel transformers are designed to completely shut off the voltage when the throttle is fully closed or the direction control is utilized.

@bmoran4 posted:

All postwar Lionel transformers are designed to completely shut off the voltage when the throttle is fully closed or the direction control is utilized.

What they are designed to do and what some of them actually do can be different.  I have seen postwar transformers with bent wipers that did not produce zero volts with the throttle closed.  Verified by servicing the transformer to straighten the wiper.

@Bob posted:

What they are designed to do and what some of them actually do can be different.

Same can be said about any transformer of any era.

@Bob posted:

What they are designed to do and what some of them actually do can be different.  I have seen postwar transformers with bent wipers that did not produce zero volts with the throttle closed.  Verified by servicing the transformer to straighten the wiper.

@bmoran4 posted:

Same can be said about any transformer of any era.

Correct, so the real solution is to try disconnecting the transformer lead to trigger the reverse unit, that will eliminate any transformer power leakage issues from the picture.

Bob, Moran and  John,

Thanks very much for that excellent information about zero voltage.  It sounds on course because at one point in my process, when the engine was somewhat "stuck" on a section of railing, I flipped the power block toggle switch on and off, and the engine responded.

I have a Z-1000 transformer, with a direction button.  I found that pressing the direction button seems to do absolutely nothing to operate the forward/reverse.  This is very confusing, since it does trigger the forward/reverse on my diesel engines.   

And, as has been commented on before about the Z-1000, the throttle control always seems to be a bit "mushy" to the feel, so maybe it never really gets down to zero voltage?

This definitely gives me something to test and research further.

Thanks,

Mannyrock

Try the remove a wire test, that will nail it down for sure if this is the issue.

Will do John.

I will actually pull the plug on the transformer to kill the power.  (Easy to do since it is hooked to a long extension cord, and I can stand up right next to my control box and do the plug/unplug.)

Mannyrock