Gray Lionel Classics 384E issues

I was just looking at the little bar and is has one screw holding it in, and am wondering how difficult it would be to replace and where I would get it with the replacement screw?

JoeG

any parts store,,, train tender for one,,,hennings, tbolt, ,etc

I think,, pt#,,2-31

drill it out

Joe;   you may have to take a small bit and drill it out but if your careful you to still may be able to get out the broken screw without damaging the threads. Another thing that may work is to drill a small hole in the broken thread and "bind" up a slightly larger screw in it turning it clockwise then the whole piece may just back out with it.   If you get the little bugger out then you could temporarily get a short screw with the right size thread from a good hardware store with a washer and that should button it up until you get the right part for it.  I think MTH parts would probably have those in stock if you give them a call on Monday.  

its a 6-32 thread,  if you use a 1/16th drill you will be safe, the drill for 6-32 is #36, drill,  .1065,,

1/16th ,,.0625

No doubt, drill it and use an "easy out".  No problem. Ask at the automotive store for one. We use them all the time. You should see some of the crap we are forced to remove on our heavy equipment. BIG, broken, rusted, hardened bolts. Yours isn't rusty and will back right out.   Watch a YouTube video to see them.

Bring the engine along when you go to size up a bit instead of guessing. 

Also, I just looked again. When it broke did it leave a jagged point where it twisted itself apart? Looks like it might have. Get on that jagged "tit" with a super small punch or something similar at just the right angle and see if you can't just spin it out. Might have to tap just a bit to get it started moving.  If it moves at all, it's coming out. Otherwise use the "easy out" route.

Thanks everyone  for all your input. Do they make an easy out for threads this small? My concern here is that my drill is really large and heavy, and not sure I could drill out cleanly, even  if I invest in a smaller drill. Debating on purchasing the drill or sending out for repair, and if I did could Hennings, Brassuer, or GGG do this? I cannot believe I did this!!

JoeG

  Joe,

We have the replacements  in stock. You can send the collector to us for repair also.  Harry

Thanks Harry, are you in the store today where I can give you a call?

JoeG

Yes they make very small easy outs. The easy out never touches the threads, nor does the drill bit. You simply drill a pilot hole in center of  the broken piece, then tap the easy out in. Use a small crescent wrench and spin it out. It would certainly save pulling that wheel off, which it looks like you have to do from the pictures. 

Obviously do whatever your comfortable with. Without question I would take it out myself in 10 minutes. Plus you would learn another skill for the future, and it's super easy on something like this. That broken screw is soft I guarantee and will drill very easily.

by all means,,if your close to harry, take it to them, ,, biggest thing,  is quartering the wheels,  don't have to pull them,  the axle is on a slot, and it will fall or slide out, 

I think I am going to try and do it myself. However I have not been able to locate an easy out smaller than 1/8

Joeg

No need to make it so complicated.

You can take the edge of a Dremel cut off tool and make a slot in the screw. Then you can unscrew the screw with a screwdriver.

Or, maybe you can take the bottom plate off and if enough of the screw is sticking out, you can remove it with a pair of pliers.

Cannot use the Dremel as the is below the surface, however, I will check the other side. Thanks Royboy.

Wonder if I can get the bell from anyone besides MTH?

JoeG

Think i got this at harbor freight.

How to use

So what I still need to drill a pilot hole with these bits

The left handed bits are the ticket. I haven't used an easy out in years. No pilot needed. Slowly start to drill out the broken screw. At some point he bit will snag the screw and twist it out.

Yes left handed bits work great also. Go super slow though. Cause if you snap THAT off in it, (which is very easy to do with small bits)  then the shows over.  

Granted you have to drill before you use an easy out too,  but your not asking the bit to carry heavy pressure.  We've snapped many BIG bits of the same.  Especially since they sometimes just "Grab!"  all of the sudden. And a baby bit that small  won't be forgiving.  Of course they never break where you can get vise grips on them either. No, they gotta break below flush. But they do work well.

Also, if you can't locate a smaller easy out, buy that 1/8 "  and grind it down. No big deal. They are very hard but you'll have no trouble grinding. And it doesn't have to stay in perfect shape. Just keep it somewhat square and a little tapered.  

None of this is hard. And if something screws up, who cares!  You were gonna pull it off in the first place anyway.   So the worst that can happen is you have to go back to plan A.   But you'll have a bit more experience in doing something new to you. Something you'll use again, guaranteed.

Trainlover160 posted:

Cannot use the Dremel as the is below the surface, however, I will check the other side. Thanks Royboy.

Wonder if I can get the bell from anyone besides MTH?

 

JoeG

Wait a minute! I just read this again.

If this is a "pass through" hole and you can get to the backside, ( by removing the collector I assume) , maybe there is a nub of screw sticking out. If so you're golden. A pair of small needle nose vice grips, and spin it out the front way. Or if it broke because it had a shoulder on it, spin it backwards a bit so you can grab it from the rear.

I'm betting this isn't the case though. 

I am out to York for the week. You can send the motor block to me, if you are not successful doing the repair. Do not need the collector or wheel sets.  Wrap it up VERY GOOD!!   I will be back in shop on the 19th.  About a $10 job + shipping.  Harry  

Screw is brass and soft and should easily drill out and sometimes while drilling the screw will back out anyway. 

RoyBoy posted:

No need to make it so complicated.

You can take the edge of a Dremel cut off tool and make a slot in the screw. Then you can unscrew the screw with a screwdriver.

Or, maybe you can take the bottom plate off and if enough of the screw is sticking out, you can remove it with a pair of pliers.

I like this idea, even if the screw is below the surface. you can still cut a slot in the screw even if you cut into the bar

a little, you can still back the screw out with a flat screw driver.

side note: Midge at MTH can help you with parts, I stripped a drive gear on that very same loco. emailed Midge and she sent me a new gear so I could replace the old .

midge@mth-railking.com

Jagrick posted:

Screw is brass and soft and should easily drill out and sometimes while drilling the screw will back out anyway. 

 Only if you're using a reverse bit.

Harry Henning posted:

I am out to York for the week. You can send the motor block to me, if you are not successful doing the repair. Do not need the collector or wheel sets.  Wrap it up VERY GOOD!!   I will be back in shop on the 19th.  About a $10 job + shipping.  Harry  

 I think this is sounding like your best bet for the money . 

 thanks again everyone I really appreciate your input. I picked up a drill bit and extractor and ordered the replacement screw. I will post an update when I do it

Joeg