Steamer posted:now I wouldn't do this for just anyone...but seeing it's you...send all those damp trains to me and I'll dry them for you. I might keep a few of the rusty nasty ones for my time and trouble.....
If we're going down that dead-end road, he should list them on eBay as Mint but say he's selling them as-is because he doesn't know anything about trains and has no way to test them.
What, me worry?
And get the heavy copper.. Not soft..
Lou1985 posted:I'm surprised the outside lines did not have valves to shut them off. My 62 year old house does. I shut the lines off every November 1st and turn them back on in April.
It will when I am done now!
Alfred E Neuman posted:Steamer posted:now I wouldn't do this for just anyone...but seeing it's you...send all those damp trains to me and I'll dry them for you. I might keep a few of the rusty nasty ones for my time and trouble.....
If we're going down that dead-end road, he should list them on eBay as Mint but say he's selling them as-is because he doesn't know anything about trains and has no way to test them.
What, me worry?
That’s funny too, man that would be too much effort, I just give em to Dave before I did that 😎
Carpet coming out.... those plastic tubs make it easy to carry the water logged foam base out!
Dennis Holler posted:copper, no steel anywhere.
Good. You're ahead of the game then. But insulate. You can buy pipe insulators $2 - 3/ 8 foot sections at HD. There is already a split so you can just slide them on pretty easy. If you have any pipe exposed outdoors, definitely insulate those. I agree also with using spray foam & those specialty water spouts.
Water does expand as it freezes.
Rod Stewart posted:But it is an ongoing concern. Especially since the house is plumbed with that rotten poly B plastic pipe.
Rod
Even down here that crap will burst.
aussteve posted:They have battery powered water alarms at the big box stores, about $12 if i remember. It has two metal contacts on the bottom. Set it on the floor. If they conduct then the audible alarm goes off. Usually they are pretty loud. I would set one layer of paper towel or toilet paper under it. No help if you are not home.
I have a battery powered water alarm attached to one leg of my layout benchwork, nearest the storm drain that backed up last year (no trains damaged because all were/are off the floor). Also replaced the area carpet in the train room with interlocking rubber exercise tiles, which I like VERY much! Quite comfortable on the feet and legs, and easy to take up and haul outside to dry off if there ever is another flood (I've taken lots of other precautions to assure that won't happen easily). I also have three dehumidifiers in the basement now: one in the layout room, another in the adjacent train room lounge area, and a third in the laundry room. No train items are in cardboard boxes on the floor...all are now, except those already higher up on shelves under the benchwork, in large plastic tubs.
I did replace the water-damaged area rug in the lounge area with another large area rug, but that's because I want that lounge to be as comfortable and inviting as possible for my relaxation times. I have a wal-mounted TV in that room now, and eventually will have a small refrigerator, microwave, coffee maker, and popcorn popper.
Word of warning, tubs are good, I found today that if the lids aren’t on good they will still fill up with a spray lol. The previous two times were very small in comparison but they were both due to water sofener vent drains getting loose from the funnel and spraying in the laundry room. I’ve not had a back up flood in this house... so far lol
the plastic tubs are a great idea
Thicker copper, frostproof taps, liquid sensors & electric shut off, thermo control heat wrap, and combos... yep, that about covers prevention.
The thicker "pipe schedual" and bibs are more important in case of power outages.
I've never encountered steel pipe bursting only crap schedual white pvc & copper. At my old house, I'd loose kitchen water at some point. Those steel pipes froze a hundred times or more since the 40s I'd bet.
The temp. absorbing quality always made me raise an eyebrow to running copper in heat questionable areas.
I'd spray the trains with a protective oil asap. Dry is good, but oil prevents any dry surface from starting with water minerals as a kick start. I'd try a firearms spray-lube for speed, covering with a spray would really speed things.
Heck, get a paint can or bucket and dunk them in non-detergent motor oil. The windings shouldn't care about that. (Ive on the been told right here, thats what he learned for brush motor tune up in the military; motor oil everywhere. My only issue is I feel it would be more likely to hold carbon from brushes in the armature gaps, maybe bridging them )
Some penetrate, watch those on windings. I like "Sheath" from Birchwood/Casey, but I'm not sure if it will attack windings, I'd just avoid that and concentrate on coating wheels, axles, and frames. (hey, wd-40 chases water pretty safely, and will protect short term at least.)
The upside of all the oil is it will be a step towards restoration, and nearly stop the rot in its tracks.
Getting under, or effecting prewar paints is a worry though... case by case 
Wood showing signs of molding might be treated with deck wash or wood bleach, which will lighten or even grey the wood, but stops molds.
There may be other, better, chemical treatments for wood today but I don't know much about them to judge. Maybe a boat shop would be worth calling, or even a boating paint company like Valspar (love their products).
I lost my chilhood stuff in a summer flood. I recal Dad swimming to pull the power main. After draining our new pool for a couple days, the trains went to the backyard for sunbathing, but it was too late for many. The already slightly rusty ones went into full bloom and Mom began tossing anything that left a rust stain on the blanket. Today I would have a multitde of oils to spray to save most of them.
Sorry this happened to you Dennis, we lost all my childhood / family trains (except one set) to the "December 1992 Nor'Easter" when we had brackish/salt water in my Dad's basement for over a week. Once the water receded "saving the trains" was low on the priority list, when things like a furnace, washer/dryer, and water heater needed attention. I remember how the rust set in so quickly on everything, it was really a mess.
If there's anything we can do just let us know and good luck...Rich
aussteve posted:They have battery powered water alarms at the big box stores, about $12 if i remember. It has two metal contacts on the bottom. Set it on the floor. If they conduct then the audible alarm goes off. Usually they are pretty loud. I would set one layer of paper towel or toilet paper under it. No help if you are not home.
Dennis--First time I'm seeing this. Sorry to hear about it. Not sure if you said how much water had accumulated before you stopped it. I would second what aussteve said. I have one of those "Low Technology" sensors, but nothing is wrong with it if it works. So, you then repaired your own pipes?
Good luck with your drying out process. I think you are taking the right steps judging from past episodes, mostly at my parents house (in NY) which tended to flood. Sometimes, just raising your items off the floor onto shelving gives you a little extra protection.
When we lived in Connecticut in the 1960's, my parents had a pipe burst. My dad was in the Army National Guard and used to bring home extra K-Rations. I remember seeing around 3 feet of water and lots of green K-Ration cans bobbing in the water...so it could have been worse!
Tom
jhz563 posted:.... The use you fans to blow air past the concrete until its dry.
Good luck
Yes...set up lots of fans if you can to dry things out. You'd be surprised what 3 or 4 fans can do in a few hours.
Tom
Depending on how long you plan to keep the house, might want to consider replacing copper with PEX. PEX is inexpensive, easy to work with, and it has some ability to expand in a freeze. And as a bonus, you can sell the copper for scrap.
Most of my house is now PEX, except for portions of two lines that run to the kitchen (and right over several shelves of trains). 
Turn off your furnace humidifier, you won't need that for a while.
Maybe even crack a window when you shower. Lots of humidity there.
(I was chasing indoor frost build up with a hairdrier yesterday in the bathroom before it expanded and messed the frame up. A couple of years ago the build up from hot showers and a closed door broke a window pane).
I have to agree with Mallard on the PEX tubing. Never heard of it splitting when freezing. It also won't get eaten through from acidic water. Here in the valley I live in we all have wells. Copper pipping only last 20 years then gets pin holes from our acidic water. Also, when installing a shut off valve to any piping that can freeze during the winter, make sure the valve is flow directional with a mini draining plug or cap. And a warning about shark bites. I have witnessed them loose their grip on copper pipe and blowing off, from ice expansion next to them, before the pipe splits. It makes repairing easier but much more water flows.
Most cases the Pex system has brass manifolds, or tee connections. Depending on the quality of the brass, there would still be some concern about metal corrosion, IMO. Some fabrication is required to adapt to kitchen/bathroom rough-ins. Copper pipe not completely gone. Hot water tank connection another interesting adaptation. Most of the parts and required tools can be found at the Big Box stores. There are two or three colors of the plastic pipe, one color cold, another hot. Also an assortment for fasteners for mounting the Pex pipe and fittings. Surprisingly the flex pipe can be installed, in a neat, orderly fashion, like copper M or L pipe. The last ten years would have seen a lot of traditional copper piping replaced with Pex IMO. Mike CT.
Regarding engines which are damp or wet, a suggestion to dry prior to testing on Your track.
set the engine on the floor level in front of your refrigerator 6-8 inches away from the grill with or without the shell. I set wet or damp objects in front of frig side where the fan blows out into the floor usually over night when everyone is in bed.
amazing how well the constant air flow overnight will help dampened electronics.
John d.
Take the trains to a dryer part of the house. WD40 displaces moisture.
For many years I worked in home upgrades. In my own home I added a second sump, twin 110 volt pumps, twin 12 volt backup, dual water alarms and a generator with spare fuel. Always turn off water when I leave the house with convenient ball valve. Most homeowners insurance covers sudden pipe bursting. When I was still in business we got more insurance work from water damage than fire loss.
Mallard4468 posted:Depending on how long you plan to keep the house, might want to consider replacing copper with PEX. PEX is inexpensive, easy to work with, and it has some ability to expand in a freeze. And as a bonus, you can sell the copper for scrap.
Most of my house is now PEX, except for portions of two lines that run to the kitchen (and right over several shelves of trains).
PEX does burst. I have a friend whose condo sustained serious water damage because her PEX piping burst, in the summertime. I didn't see the damaged pipe to determine how & why. I heard about it afterwards but that isn't the only incident.
AND DON'T FORGET TO CHECK YOUR WASHING MACHINE HOSES.
Not because they can freeze but because they get weak over time and can burst. I just replaced mine with stainless steel braided hoses.
You might have to pull up your rug.Because it might mildew witch could cause more problems.At least your trains seem to be in good shape.And that good.
You need to consider a whole-house automatic water main shut off valve that can be activated by anyone on multiple remote sensors. These are inserted into the mail water feed near where it enters the house. RF sensors are placed around potential water sources and will activate the valve and alarm if water is sensed. Some valves will activate with a loss of pressure if a pipe bursts.
Jan
balidas posted:...… in either case, cover as much exposed pipe as you can with pipe insulation, both hot & cold. ….
I had a hot water pipe freeze during the week. It didn't burst, but I had no hot water to one part of the house until I defrosted it.
I never even heard of a hot water pipe freezing. It was a cold week, bottoming out at -22 Thursday morning.
Best of luck with your wet trains. Glad it wasn't an even worse situation for you.
we got down to -8. We have a crawl space under the kitchen, and when it gets that cold the hot first, and then the cold to the washer will freeze. This will be my Spring project...not gonna deal with broke pipes when I'm 70.
EBT Jim posted:balidas posted:...… in either case, cover as much exposed pipe as you can with pipe insulation, both hot & cold. ….
I had a hot water pipe freeze during the week. It didn't burst, but I had no hot water to one part of the house until I defrosted it.
I never even heard of a hot water pipe freezing. It was a cold week, bottoming out at -22 Thursday morning.
Best of luck with your wet trains. Glad it wasn't an even worse situation for you.
Hot water is usually lacking dissolved air, because of the water temperature. The air, (in cold water), actually depresses the freezing point slightly. Hot freezes first
RSJB18 posted:AND DON'T FORGET TO CHECK YOUR WASHING MACHINE HOSES.
Not because they can freeze but because they get weak over time and can burst. I just replaced mine with stainless steel braided hoses.
OR THE LINE TO THE REFRIGERATOR ICEMAKER.
I had the line to the ice maker split at our beach house. It was in the basement garage among the joists and floor boards under the kitchen. Fortunately, we turn the water off when we leave, and our friend who checks on the house and keeps the yard up discovered it when he turned the water on to use a hose. No real damage, but we have forgotten to turn the water off on occasion when we leave. :-(
We also tun off the washer supply lines at both houses when not on use.
Cheers!
Alan
With electronics that have been exposed to water, especially in an engine, you may want to get contact cleaner and spray the circuit boards with it, contact cleaner is hydrophobic (water displacing) and can help dry the boards, and it is designed not to hurt circuit boards and the like. Would even be useful drying out post war e-units and the motor on one of those I would imagine.
What is that stuff the model battleship operators use on the electronics when their ship gets sunk ?
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