Can you help me with the best way to add the hall - effect 'gear' sensor to the motor? I have the entire TMCC guts added to the Williams TM diesel but need a resource for the hall - effect sensor and install. Thanks!
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You said gear but do you mean the motor flywheel to sense rpm?
Pete
Yes, the rpm sensor uses a square tooth gear to count the number of teeth per unit of time. I would like any information on how to modify a can motor to add the gear and sensor.
Don, do you have a photo of that motor and boards? This sounds like your electronics are not Lionel.
Pete
The electronics are Lionel but the locomotive an motor is Williams. A replacement motor with sensor on Lionel site is $32 so maybe the only way to go.
This is what I want to modify the Williams motor to be.
Thats a magnet. The easiest way is to add a flywheel and sensor to the Williams motor.
Either way either the existing flywheel or gear has to come off the Williams motor and its much easy to pull the flywheel than the gear. Even then you need a good puller so you don’t bend the shaft.
I would use these items.
Hall sensor board which solders to the motor terminals.
The Fixit Flywheel that is held on with a set screw.
And a magnet which gets epoxied on to the flywheel.
Lionel part numbers are shown at the bottom of each photo.
Pete
Attachments
Norton,
Thank you for the info! I appreciate your time. I didn't look at this option because the Williams motor doesn't have a flywheel. I have other Williams that his will work great! I guess the $32 Lionel motor with sensor is the best option for this project.
Thanks again,
Don
@The Don posted:Norton,
Thank you for the info! I appreciate your time. I didn't look at this option because the Williams motor doesn't have a flywheel. I have other Williams that his will work great! I guess the $32 Lionel motor with sensor is the best option for this project.
Thanks again,
Don
Keep in mind if you buy the Lionel motor the gear may not be the same and they are very difficult to get off without damaging the motor. If you removed the flywheel and sensor from the Lionel Motor its easy the break the ceramic magnet. Neither route is easy.
Pete
Thanks for the heads up. Maybe I'll get a new magnet at the same time as the motor.
You will make the job easier if you use a Cruise Commander from Electric Railroad.
yes, I've done others with 3RR but this Legacy boards and wiring was free. Those 2 rail O scale guys are good friends to have around. They just rip out perfectly good electronics from 3 rail O scale to convert to 2 rail conventional.
Don
@The Don posted:yes, I've done others with 3RR but this Legacy boards and wiring was free. Those 2 rail O scale guys are good friends to have around. They just rip out perfectly good electronics from 3 rail O scale to convert to 2 rail conventional.
This motor and encoder you show is a TMCC era Odyssey I motor/encoder, not a Legacy motor/encoder. What exact electronics are we talking about?
@The Don posted:yes, I've done others with 3RR but this Legacy boards and wiring was free. Those 2 rail O scale guys are good friends to have around. They just rip out perfectly good electronics from 3 rail O scale to convert to 2 rail conventional.
Don
Well, if you do indeed have Legacy Boards and not TMCC then the swap would actually be easier as most Legacy Diesels have flywheels with set screws.
Pete
Pete,
The electronics are Legacy Diesel, the motors are Williams and do not have flywheels nor the square gear and sensor. Please look at photos.
Don
Ima tell ya now Don, you’d be better off sidelining that legacy stuff till a better candidate for the swap rolls across your plate ……you’re in for a ride trying to convert that early engine into legacy……..that’s gonna be a job and a half if you so choose……
Pat
John,
The electronics are a motherboard, DCDRS, R2LC, Rail Sound Power Supply Command Control Only, RailSounds Board Command Control Only, and Smoke unit.
@The Don posted:John,
The electronics are a motherboard, DCDRS, R2LC, Rail Sound Power Supply Command Control Only, RailSounds Board Command Control Only, and Smoke unit.
If it's an R2LC, it is NOT a Legacy package! The R2LC was ONLY for TMCC, the R4LC-Sxx was the Legacy board, xx is from 01 to 05 with 03 being the most common.
Pat,
Thanks for the advice. However, I've done many electronic projects and almost done with this one. It only takes time to build the stands for the boards and alignment of the smoke unit. I can help you if you need advice. I'm ordering the Lionel motor with the flywheel and hall effect sensor, it should be just plug in. I have to ensure the motor plate off the Williams will attach to the motor. I'll show pictures when done. Thanks all for your help.
End of thread.
Don
John,
Thank you. I didn't realize the R2LC was TMCC only. This helps on the correct motor/flywheel/sensor to order from Lionel.
Thanks for setting me straight.
Don
Don, did you note what John says? You were asking about a vaned sensor originally. Its starting to sound like the boards you have are first generation Legacy. They appear to be just like TMCC Odyssey boards but the motor has a vaned opto interrupter vs a magnet and hall sensor board. Also R4LC vs R2LC. RS 5.5 vs RS5. Audio Power is identical.
If you order a magnet motor it won’t work with a Legacy DCDS.
Pete
Pete, if he has an R2LC, it's not Legacy!
@The Don posted:Pat,
Thanks for the advice. However, I've done many electronic projects and almost done with this one. It only takes time to build the stands for the boards and alignment of the smoke unit. I can help you if you need advice. I'm ordering the Lionel motor with the flywheel and hall effect sensor, it should be just plug in. I have to ensure the motor plate off the Williams will attach to the motor. I'll show pictures when done. Thanks all for your help.
End of thread.
Don
It ain’t the electronics that will get you in trouble I’m sure you can figure that out,…, it’s getting the gears off the stock motors, then transplanting them to the new motors where it gets sketchy, ……even for me, I still have a success/failure ratio …..they don’t always pull off or reinstall with out wrecking them…..then what to do if the new motors don’t exactly bolt up to the old style motor’s mounting pad,…..I wasn’t being nasty, just pointing out the obvious pitfalls….
Pat
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Pete, if he has an R2LC, it's not Legacy!
Its taken how many post to find that out? Sheeesh. Time to back to work.
Pete
@Norton posted:Its taken how many post to find that out? Sheeesh. Time to back to work.
It did take longer than it should have.
I would not assume that a Lionel motor will fit/mesh with Williams gears.
@RoyBoy posted:I would not assume that a Lionel motor will fit/mesh with Williams gears.
AAMOF, I would be a lot more likely to assume it wouldn't properly mesh with the gears!
Since the OP has an R2LC that makes the suggestion of getting a ERR Cruise Commander all the more appropriate.
Then, save the DCDS for another project.
Truthfully, I wouldn't be rushing to use that old Odyssey DCDS anyway, it's not worth all that effort! The ERR back-EMF cruise using the CC-M is much smoother, and gives you 100 speed steps vs 32 speed steps.
The two motors should match. The speed/torque per voltage should be the same for both motors.
Even though the Legacy boards were free, that does not mean that what the OP is trying to do can actually be accomplished with two very different motors.
When running Odyssey I, there's a lot of "give" in the motor specs, but obviously the closer they are, the better things will run.