Help! Micromark Laser Decals Urgent!

You cannot print on clear decal paper and expect it to be seen on a dark object. The only option is white decal paper or commercially done decals.

Scott Smith

According to the MicroMark decal paper instructions...

You may use multiple colors, but be aware that dark model colors may show through

light-colored artwork.

You may also print a background color that matches the surface of the item to which the decal is being applied. 

Another option that might work and/or send you to the nut house => double up on the decals. 

As a last minute fix...dry transfers or press-on alpha-numeric characters available at most art supply and craft stores.

Regarding the clear spray:

Also, you must immediately apply a few thin, but thorough, coats of Micro-Mark #82858 Clear Acrylic Sealing Fixative Spray to seal the inkjet printed image on the decal paper; otherwise, it will smear and/or wash off.

You can apply the clear spray when dry but it would make sense to follow the directions at least once. 

Practice on scrap material or a test car before working on the final model. 

Hope it works out for you and the kids.

Scott is right.  Whether ink-jet or laser, printing 'yellow' on clear to be transferred to a dark background is not going to work very well.  The ink process (lots of microscopic dots) is too transparent.  The yellow letters would look pretty decent on a white, or even very light colored, background.  So....

I know it's not your first preference, but you might consider something like painting the letterboard area/band above the windows white or a Tuscan/white mix that is very light. 

You really need to overspray the decals with clear spray coming off the printer.  Otherwise, placing the decals into water to begin the transfer process risks bleeding the printed color.  That's certainly true for ink-jet printing, anyway.

Sorry to not have a magic solution.

Merry Christmas, though!

KD

I am using the Laser labels on a Laser Printer, not the ink jet ones.

So, I still need to seal the finished label coming right out of the laser printer? I am using a high end laser printer that has the capability to slow down the paper to get a better fixing (fusing).

Doubling up may not work, not sure if I can get the white background labels in time but even then the white label printer on the Dark Tuscan Red with Yellow Ink, will probably still get washed out on the white. Might be able to come up with a transition color to print on that might offset the Tuscan Red and the Yellow...

Now just got to try and find different labels today and see if I can get them here today and work on them tomorrow!

If you have access to dry transfer letters you can make a "hybrid" decal using the clear film as backing and apply the letters to that then topcoat with the liquid decal film material.  It's usually easier to apply the dry letter on something flat and smooth.  If you have access to a light table or can "fake one" this may be the easiest way to do what you are trying to do.  Once you make the hybrid you just cut the decal from the film and apply like you would any water slide.  This will not be as thin or "polished" as a true water slide but it should work and may be easier than the alternatives.

Try it both ways and see which works best for you.  Sealing the ink with a clear coat should prevent decal setting solutions from smearing your handiwork.

Practice is the best method.

This is the problem facing do-it-yourselfers, decal transparency...heck, even with brand name decals..thinner decals can bleed the base color thru if they're thin and the base color is any dark color.

As far as sealing, lazers use heat{?} to make the color while inkjets use dots and those need to be sealed...I like lacquer clear for those...even then my micromark setting and solva-set stuff can make the decals bleed a tad with a top coat or two. Remember that setting solutions soak into the decal backing to let it soften up and this can bleed your colors without pre and post clear coats to envelope the pigment from the printer. 

I'm attempting a CB&Q gold lettering and gold background herald for some steamers I want to convert and this bleeding/transparency issue is holding me back...but no-one makes them now...so I do it or go without.

Oh, any light colored printing has to go onto white decal paper...has to! This will leave you to trim around it or match the base/background color via your printers colors as close as possible so you don't have to cut everything out.

Any light colored decal on a dark colored surface with laser printed decals on clear paper will never work. Light color ink, yellow more than any color, need white under it for a dark surface. You can print on white base decal paper, print the letters with a background the same color as your surface.

Laser decals are ready to use as they come from the printer. I do apply some type clear coat over them after I apply them. With handling the laser decals can rub off some.

There are MANY MANY posts here on the forum about decals and making your own. I've been a decal maker for 30 years if there is something not covered in old post feel free to ask.