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All:

I am installing a set of crossing signals (Z-Stuff DZ-1020) at a mainline grade crossing.  I am not able to use an insulated rail to trigger the crossing signals.  While (to my knowledge) Z-Stuff's IR detector (DZ-1011) works fine, it does not resemble a Pennsy signal.  So, I am looking for help in doing one of the following alternatives:

  1. Hide a DZ-1011 inside some sort of track-side structure.  Can you show me what you have done for this?
  2. Replace the electronic guts and functionality of the DZ-1011 with a small self-contained bit of circuitry (would need make & part #) that could be hidden in a building or track-side structure.

Your help for this would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks,

George

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I would think you would be better off putting the 1011 inside a small structure such as a relay cabinet. The problem with that is the 1011 must be very close to the side of the track to “see” the train; like almost touching close. You might be better off with something like the 153IR which has much better range.

Also from my experience the 1011 directly driving most Zstuff signals results in very dim signals. You may want to consider using a DZ-1008 relay to drive the signals with the 1008 triggered by your trackside device. This makes them nice and bright.

Also as you are likely aware, you will need two triggers, one each side of your crossing spaced 2-3 feet away.
Rod

George, years ago I added a set of grade crossing signals.  I went with www.azatrax.com. Very pleased with how they work and the well written directions. They have a board you can buy that comes with detectors and great instructions. I mounted mine in previously ballasted Gargraves. Mine aren’t in plain sight but they aren’t really noticeable. They reside inside plastic tubing.

49123925-3662-488D-8625-DA86AB68AC54

They have an excellent site and you can click on numerous links as there are many scenarios of track configurations that show they can be used. I used a pair of Tomar lights. But they show a few hookups with an MTH set. I’m guessing the DZ setup once you got it to the bare bones would also work. What I liked about them. With an insulated rail. In order to look prototypical. The lights must trigger well before the train gets there. But if trains run in both directions. They also stay on well after the train passes. The board they sell can figure out the direction of travel. So they come on well ahead of the crossing and go off shortly after the last car passes. You may have to keep accessing links to see how it all works. But they cover it well.

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