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To steepen my learning curve on my repair and maintenance skills I bought a few junk motors to take apart and to restore. The ultimate goal would be to find the right boiler body, wheels, trucks, e-units and collectors to make a complete locomotive.

QUESTION 1: How does one determine the engine(s) it was built for?  (This would be important if there were collector value.)

QUESTION 2: How does one determine what engine(s) it would be suitable for? (This would be important just to cobble together some parts to build a fun locomotive.)

QUESTION 3: If the motor was built for an O-27 engine, what needs to be done to make it run on O gauge track? Wider axles?

 

Apologies if these newbie questions seem dumb.  Thanks for your help!

Pete

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There are plenty of exploded diagrams and service documents with part numbers and such. This should be enough to get you started (and overwhelm you at the same time!). It will take awhile to become experienced and proficient at navigating and identifying everything. That's where your friends on the forum can share their insight.

Lionel Pre/Postwar Service Documents:
Olsens Toy Train Library - http://olsenstoy.com/searchcd1.htm

Postwar Service Documents in Book form:
Complete service Manual for LIONEL TRAIN - https://www.amazon.com/Complet...TRAINS/dp/B002QMF84S
Greenberg's Repair & operating manual for Lionel trains - https://www.amazon.com/Greenbe...ds=greenbergs+repair

MPC Era Documents (Lionel Supplements 1-47):
East Texas Model Trains Suppliment w/index - http://www.easttexas-modeltrai...rg/supplement_files/
Lionel - https://www.lionelsupport.com/...mp;categoryIDList=59

MPC Era in Book form:
Greenberg's Operating & Repair Manual: Lionel-Fundimensions Trains, 1970-1978 - https://www.amazon.com/Greenbe...ds=greenbergs+repair

Modern Era:
Lionel - https://www.lionelsupport.com/...mp;categoryIDList=59

 

 

 

As for O and O-27 compatibility, you don't need to widen the axles - the width is the same:

The rail height is a little different, but in most cases, that isn't going to be an issue. Regardless of O or O-27, one needs to be sure the locomotive and rolling stock can navigate the curve. This means that the track curve must match or exceed the minimum curve specified for the piece of equipment.

Hope that all gets you started on the right foot!

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Thank you, Chuck! Very kind of you to take the time to help.

I have 15 "junk" motors, and 4 disreputable, rusty, damaged locos. That should keep me busy for a while. Perhaps I will post one photo a week or a month, and start a "Name That Motor" topic for you experts...kind of like "Name That Tune."   The weekly winner gets a "Certificate of Awesomeness" posted on OGR Forum from me, and a chance to compete in the finals in New Jersey.

QUESTION 3: If the motor was built for an O-27 engine, what needs to be done to make it run on O gauge track? Wider axles?

While there are a few exceptions, most 027 engines will run on "O" and Super "O" track, and conversely, most "O" gauge engines will run on "027" track. In fact, some otherwise identical engines were sold as "027", "O" and Super "O", with the only difference being the number marked on the side of the loco.

Olsen's Toy Train parts has the original Lionel service station manual online. It contains a lot of information. The rest comes from experience.

Thank you, B! You went to great trouble to point me in the right direction, and I appreciate it.

I have Greenberg's Repair and Operating Manual for Lionel Trains, 1945-1969 , and the  Complete Service Manual for Lionel Trains. They are already heavily earmarked. The East Texas Supplements will be a big help to show me how things are put together. Thanks, too, for the O and O-27 clarification and diagrams.

As I mentioned to Chuck (above) so far I have 15 "junk" motors, and 4 disreputable, rusty, damaged locomotives, having already repaired 3 postwar steamers. I have yet to accumulate a parts inventory so that I do not come to a screeching halt each time I need a new brush spring, light bulb, or left handed tooth picker. A purist at heart, I would prefer to use Lionel replacement parts or authentic parts from bone yard scavenges to keep the end result authentic. But I do not yet know how freely interchangeable parts and components are. For example, can I use just any old e-unit if it fits on the motor, or are there unique  characteristics that make a real difference in operation?   I suppose I will eventually learn which locomotives have collector value to justify strict authenticity.

Anyhow, I do appreciate how freely advice and knowledge is shared here. I feel like I am imposing if I ask too many questions, but I suppose you folks will tell me when I am.

How do you like the idea of my posting a photo once a week or once a month from my collection of derelict motors  and start a "Name That Motor" topic for you experts?   As I told Chuck, the weekly winner gets a "Certificate of Awesomeness" posted in the OGR Forum from me, and a chance to compete in the finals in New Jersey. Might be fun for you experts, and informative for me.

Thanks again!

 

Anyhow, I do appreciate how freely advice and knowledge is shared here. I feel like I am imposing if I ask too many questions, but I suppose you folks will tell me when I am.

Most of the folks who reply don't mind answering questions. It's nice when folks acknowledge the help and let us know how things turn out. If you hit a sourpuss, don't worry about it.

If you are going to get into fixing trains, you may wish to familarize yourself with a few of the better Lionel parts dealers, and maybe buy some common parts like brushes to have on hand. Train Tender sells some parts at wholesale prices with small minimums.

The reason for multiple parts dealers is that they don't all have the same parts. You can buy parts on Ebay, sometimes the prices are good. Unfortunately sometimes there are people who take advantage of the inexperienced (thats all items, not just train parts). Plus some Ebay parts sellers don't combine shipping. (I do buy a selecf few parts on EBay)

Last edited by C W Burfle
HCSader73 posted:

I have yet to accumulate a parts inventory so that I do not come to a screeching halt each time I need a new brush spring, light bulb, or left handed tooth picker. ... I do not yet know how freely interchangeable parts and components are. For example, can I use just any old e-unit if it fits on the motor, or are there unique  characteristics that make a real difference in operation?   I suppose I will eventually learn which locomotives have collector value to justify strict authenticity. 

If you are looking to build a parts inventory, especially postwar, I would look towards the common kits such as Dr. Tinkers screw assortments that package the more popular of the over 300 types of screws Lionel used into "assortments":

http://www.drtinkertrains.com/...et%20list%202004.pdf

In similar vain, you can look at Niger's Screw List that has some interchangeability built in:

http://www.llmodeltrain.com/NyergesBaSList.pdf

As for e-unit interchangeability, the original service documents have that spelled out pretty well, specifically on the last 3 pages:

http://olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=1070

For bulbs/lamps, use the Lamp List provided here:

http://olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=750

Lionel Service Documents also provided an Interchange List, but it is more of parts obsolescence supersedes list:

http://olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=626

Note: I'm very into pre/postwar Lionel trains(over 100 locomotives!) and was getting frustrated by not having things "in stock" and having to wait on parcels. I built up a list for my "dream" inventory and it added up $$$$ really quick. Instead, when I have a need, I order that part in bulk or as part of an assortment. This has let me build up my parts inventory over time.

Note: I'm very into pre/postwar Lionel trains(over 100 locomotives!) and was getting frustrated by not having things "in stock" and having to wait on parcels. I built up a list for my "dream" inventory and it added up $$$$ really quick. Instead, when I have a need, I order that part in bulk or as part of an assortment. This has let me build up my parts inventory over time

I've done a combination of the two.

When I needed a part, I'd do a quick evaluation of whether I would be likely to need the part again. If the price wasn't too high, I'd buy a couple.
There are certain parts I like to purchase in bulk because I know I am going to need them, and they have serious discounts:
many style brushes
many light bulbs
E-unit renewal parts.

Screws and rivets too. But the problem with having screws on hand is the sheer number of different types.  I have over 250 different screws on hand, built up over many years. Most of them came from Ted Nyerges. Sadly, he is no longer with us. He transferred his business to Len Carparelli.

Last edited by C W Burfle

HC yes post pictures many here can help , yes there are minor differences in the spur gear motors and some in personal opinion are for the better. Take for example the postwar 675/2025 in late 1940s those motors had the baldwin wheels in early 50s they changed to spokes . I did read somewhere in one of my books the machine standard loosened up on the later version motor or perhaps it was just tooling wear. Had several of both versions and the early version was much quieter and ran like a fine sewing machine compared to the later version.

Another example the 2035 motor which is the magnetraction version of 675/2025 same boiler in 1950 only only had the half moon eccentric crank which was known to strip out probably when the screw holding it loosened without owner knowing and also had a large powerful cylinder shaped magnet .

In 1951 the eccentric crank was changed to the better 2 pin setup and the magnet was rectangular shaped have both versions. The cranks are interchangeable of course and back then the 2 pin crank would be used to replace the half moon shape when needing service because of mentioned problem.

Also the 1946 was a great year in my opinion for the berks and turbines with its dual worm gear now those are great runners and the bulb smoke unit is a thing to behold when running with lights dimmed as the bulb shines up thru stack into the smoke as it puffs out and looks like a real fire flickering albeit white in color,   1947 the motor was changed and a new type of smoke unit which worked well but lost was the above mentioned.

Could go on more about some differences but post your pictures we can help you .

Last edited by Dieseler

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