How to Assemble a Loco Workshop body

Do you know anyone who can do heliarc welding? That would be the way that I would want it done. I once had a GG1 that was cast in Al (about a half-inch thick); luckily, I was able to trade it off to someone for an assembled, complete Scalecraft tank car which I still have.

Just assemble with JB Weld.  You could put transverse aluminum spacers in there, but it ought to hold just fine with epoxy.  If you are uneasy, imbed fiberglas cloth in the JB Weld on the inside along the seam.  No need to heliarc.

I agree with Bob2's approach...no need for welding.

Joe

+1 for JB Weld.

create a jig to hold the half’s aligned whilst the JB cures

I recommend employing a drilled and tapped brass plate under the roof and then once aligned actually drilling and tapping the castings and using screws to lock the halves together in alignment. After your JB Weld sets-up you and can mill/file down the protruding screw ends off the outside of the roof line. I'm surprised Bob didn't suggest that since he's used that method on castings too.   

I did a pair of Shark bodies by the same mfg many years ago.   At the time I did not know about JBweld So I used whatever  epoxy I got at the hardware.

Since it was big and smooth surfaces, I did assemble it with plates under the roofs.     I drilled single holes in the front and back of the roof on each casting.   i don't remember what size hole screw.    I did use a bit and counter since the holes in the roof and used flathead screws with nuts.  Then I fashioned a brass plate from bar stock from the hobby shop, it does not have to be real heavy, maybe .040 inches.     I drilled the plates to match the holes so the two sides fit tightly together.   I probably clamped the sides together while I did this.    I used larger screws, but even a 2-56 would do I think.

After this was all set, I spread epoxy on the halves and put them together and inserted and tightened the screws with nuts.    I had not taps at the time.    I let it dry overnight and then I came back and filed and sanded the expoxy down level with the roof (and nose) for a smooth surface.     I also filled over the flathead countersunk screws with either putty (light tamiya in today's world) or epoxy and files and sanded them too.

It took longer to write this description than to plan the project.    In reality most of the work was the waiting for the epoxy to set up and the filing and sanding on those castings and the seams.   

I did mine about possibly 40 years ago (how did I get this old) and they are still fine with no cracks showing up.    I used a Weaver single motor drive in mine.   

I don't think the expoxy will hold as well without some mechanical reinforcement even such as the fiberglass mentioned above.

By the way, I orginally had a different drive and used the original sideframes.    That did not work as well and at some point I replaced the drive and side frames.

Would I be correct in saying that you are building this model ....

A.  for the "fun"/ challenge of building it,

as opposed to 

B. because you "need" a U36B ?

If your answer is A, enjoy "the getting there" and read no farther.

If your answer is B:

  -  did you consider using one or two Atlas U23 bodies ?

  -  I don't think this is a model of a U36, but a U33 and an early one at that:  note the taper ahead of the radiator section.  That's a solvable problem of course, but it makes one wonder what other differences there are.   Well, it might make one wonder, anyway.

Best, SZ

Steinzeit posted:

Would I be correct in saying that you are building this model ....

A.  for the "fun"/ challenge of building it,

as opposed to 

B. because you "need" a U36B ?

If your answer is A, enjoy "the getting there" and read no farther.

If your answer is B:

  -  did you consider using one or two Atlas U23 bodies ?

  -  I don't think this is a model of a U36, but a U33 and an early one at that:  note the taper ahead of the radiator section.  That's a solvable problem of course, but it makes one wonder what other differences there are.   Well, it might make one wonder, anyway.

Best, SZ

I received the package last night. The OEM box does say U33B on it. The difference between the two models is internal. 

The casting are thick! IDK how I will be able to cut the pilots for the "lobster claw" Lionel type couplers.

I thought after picking up the castings how"light weight" they are. I guess mentally I was thinking die-cast weight instead of thick Aluminum weight.

Surprisingly the Radiator section is deviod of radiator details... Not even an etching of the screen mesh top? The Radiator is best describe as more of a shape casting than a detailed casting. For sure this is s real project for the advanced modeler. Beginners and intermediates are better off kitbashing a WBB U33C shell that has much better details. I will add more pictures later.

BTW, I am modeling the Conrail U36B locomotive which were originally built for the auto train which followed the SCL specs. Can anyone familiar with the SCL locomotive tell me the nose lights- one being clear, the other red... What was their typical operation?

prrhorseshoecurve posted:

 

The OEM box does say U33B on it. The difference between the two models is internal.

Well, yes -- provided the U33 and 36 in question both rolled [ or were pushed ] out of Erie at more or less the same time.  My point is that that LW body style preceded U36 production locomotives.  See some of the photos below for what I mean, just forward of the front of the radiators.

As far as the lights on the low nose, by the time the units were assigned to Parkway Limited operation in 1981, '73 and '74 had been changed over to "all white ';  later on some or all had the nose lights blanked over.  But note the red marker lights. 

[ The last photo isn't very U36-informative, I just happen to like the shot.]

Best rgds, SZ

These kinds of models do not compete with modern brass or plastic Diesels.  We call them "doorstops" because they are well suited for such use.

If you want screen on top, you have to cut the openings.  The casting process requires "draft angles" so the pattern can be lifted out of the sand, so any indentations on the top/ends/belt rail would cause the sand to shear and ruin the mold.

I do use screws and cross members to secure bodies, but they are removed after soldering/ epoxying.  I doubt your body will ever come apart if you do JB Weld and clamp for 24 hours.