how to brushed on polished aluminum passenger cars

Ideas that come to mind are the product that restores clouded headlights. The stuff i used has 3 sanding pads as fine as 1500 grit. The finish on stainless steel appliances can be rebrushed use a very fine wet sanding.

Do a search of restore stainless steel appliances and headlights for products.

hello F&G RY

will this work on the cars that have ribs on the sides and roof line or will it remove them from sanding?

Tiffany

I believe what you are desiring is an anodized finish.  Probably not practical once a model is assembled.  Bare aluminum extrusions will corrode, so once the anodization is gone, you will have to polish frequently.  If you sand or scuff them, the problem will be worse.

I find a polished finish is more realistic looking. Those old stainless cars really did shine under all that road dirt.

I would try BRASSO.  First try if in a small location perhaps near the wheel wells.

Follow the directions, apply, let dry and buff.  You get it at Lowe's for $2.99

Personally Tiffany, I would leave these cars "as is".

I agree with "Passenger Train Collector" on this. Leave them alone.Maybe try to sell or trade them for a set of cars with the finish you desire. Dulling the finsih is going to be more trouble than it's worth I assure you. Early vintage 70's Williams extruded aluminum cars have a matte finish are common and inexpensive. Maybe one of the other forum members can help you with getting a set.

Hello Passenger Train Collector.........

Ok, perhaps leave the sides alone but paint the roof and the window sides ?  The cars are Amtrak markings and my Williams F-3's are blue and silver "Santa Fe" as wanted to

change the road name to "Santa Fe" on the passenger cars to go with the Williams F-3's.  Perhaps to paint the roof and window sides dark blue to go with the blue on the bluebonnet F-3"?  I was planning to paint the blue strips name boards with white "Santa Fe" decals on it. Any Ideas? 

Tiffany

hello Boomer..............

I have to agree with both of you and Passenger Train Collector but a month or 2 ago, I posted a Amtrak GG1 and 8 aluminum cars for sale in the "for sale or trade" post for 400 dollars in very like new condition ( I take good care of my trains) and no buyers !!!.  I was selling it lower cost than the sets in E-bay !!!   Still no buyers, it had many pictures to show the condition and I don't get it so I sold the GG1 and kelp the cars. I bought the older Williams F-3's to pull the 8 car set. The cars are still in Amtrak names but wanted to change it to Santa Fe to go with the F-3's. Its a fine mess I gotten myself in to !!!

Tiffany

Tiffany, the Amtrak bright finish aluminum cars would make excellent donors for a Texas Special train; and, the diesels are a pretty easy paint project if you don't use the PW LIONEL 2245. 

Tiffany, I would offer the cars again on the OGR For Sale Board. Don't package them with an engine. They will eventually sell, so be patient. In the mean time, don't try to alter their original finish.

If you want a matte aluminum finish you can use a mag wheel cleaner like Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner. It is meant for cast aluminum wheels and not recommended for polished aluminum as it will dull the finish. But it sounds like that is the look you want.

You will have to strip the bodies from the frame and remove the window inserts. Mask off any lettering. Best apply with a rag and rinse off thoroughly after no more than a few minutes. This will work on bare aluminum but not if its been clear coated.

For the purists the shine can be restored with aluminum polish and elbow grease. 

Pete

Once you strip them completely down, you can probably get them anodized professionally.  That provides a barrier to corrosion.  Be aware, though, that there are many shades of anodized aluminum, so take an anodized car with you to show the shop.

But as above, in terms of cost, you are way better off selling, and then purchasing what you want.  I believe this is a universal truth - restoring cars, airplanes, and indeed model trains is always going to cost more $ than the finished product will bring.

Have you considered replacing the Lionel 6-18303 Amtrak GG1 you sold with Lionel Amtrak 6-8466/8467/8475 F-3's to pull the Amtrak cars? They're readily available, inexpensive, and although the F-3's are not diecast like the GG1, the finish appearance is about the same as the GG1.  The contrast with the 6-9100 baggage car can be seen in the inset of the fourth photograph attached to this message.

Regarding the original post, it's likely that the finish is anodized right from the factory.  Carl, what say you?  You'll find it pretty much impervious to common polishes and compounds.  I believe chemical stripping is the only way of removing anodization.

If there's only a clear lacquer coating then simple lacquer thinner will remove it along with the Amtrak coloring.

Spraying the aluminum with Testors dull coat might produce the desired effect of a brushed finish, one that will match a painted engine more closely.

Bruce

Hello hobby-go-lucky...........

Yes, I have thought about getting MPC era F-3's but not happy with single motor drive and plastic gears, hollowed out pot metal wheels. The GG1 couldn't even pull the 8 cars on 0-72 track. I had a Williams GP-9 and that engine pulled the WHOLE train with ease!

 I purchased the older Williams F-3's (same motor drive as the GP-9's) and purchased 2 motorized kits to power the second "A" and "B" unit as I planned to add a second Pullman making ABA and 9 car set.  Williams didn't make a Amtrak F-3's too bad. I modeled in "Santa Fe" anyway. I have invested in the Williams F-3's already as they are so much better made than those early MPC and LTI F-3's.

Tiffany

Hello guys and gals.........

Will this idea work, that is to spray a clear DULL coat on the bodies to make them a matte finish like forum member brwebster said?  Sounds good to me rather to have paint the cars silver.

Tiffany

Tiffany

Testors Semi-Gloss Clear lacquer is another option. Gives a different look than the Dullcote. I have seen it used over chrome plated model car wheels with nice results. Try it out on the shiny side of aluminum foil to compare products side by side. Personally, I would leave the cars in the factory finish. I have the set and love the look!

hello Bill S.

 What would you do if you were me dealing with the Williams F-3's silver is duller than the Amtrak cars which is polished and trying to match the 2 together?

Tiffany

Krylon makes a very nice satin clear coat that may give the exact look you desire.  Many train cars that are molded from colored plastic receive this satin clear coat at the factory.

Hello donhradio...........

very interesting to know, will it work on polished aluminum cars ?

Tiffany

hello guys and gals.............

Well if someone has a set of 8 Williams 15 inch aluminum cars dull or matte finish in like new condition that I can paint the windows dark blue for to TRADE for the Lionel Amtrak aluminum cars, I would do it in a heartbeat as I am getting tired of messing with the Amtrak cars. Let me know before I ended up painting lionel cars or smashing them with a hammer !!!

Tiffany

  If it is any kind of a "mirror" finish, you will likely have a paint adhesion problem long term.

 Sanding isn't just about smoothing things. The grit we use for paint leaves grooves for the paint to adhere to. A polished surface will often need an etching, or paint with etching qualities to last well. They don't make any clear coat etches I'm aware of.

  If your bound and determined, start lightly with a light steel wool(000 of finer), or soft brass brush on the inside, and see what you get (you know what an SOS will do to shiny aluminum pans right? Beware the cloudyness is from the bleach powder  ) Move to steel brush if you have to but go lighter. A wire brush is the only way to get grooves well & easy.

I would be surprised if the cars were ever anodized. If they were you wouldn't see the corrosion on cars that have been neglected over the years, not to mention the cost added to production.

Here is the result of using etching mag wheel cleaner. This scrap of aluminum was buffed and then half was wiped with Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner.

Before:

After:

Pete

What track power were you using and over what span, Tiffany? I have an 18303 GG1 that pulls all seven cars (19100-19106, unsure where you came up with the eighth car) with ease over a 6'x18' Fastrack loop powered by a 180 brick. The 8466/67/75 F-3 ABA does struggle to pull all seven cars, but with traction tires in good shape, the light bulb in the dummy F-3A can be removed or a car or two parked to highball with the F-3's.

Seems you have made up your mind anayway (especially since you already sold your GG1), so all of the above is really to set the record straight for anyone contemplating purchase of any of the aforementioned items.

Tiffany, You might tape up the car until you get to the roof line. then you might want to try steel wool (000 or 0000) from one end of the car to the other end keeping the lines straight. Please find a piece of Aluminum to try it on first.(maybe a soda can) when finished you can do a quick wipe with ammonia to make it a little darker and even looking.  Please test this method first. I have used this method on copper and brass with good results. Need I say Good Luck and I hope whatever you do works out to your liking.      Casey   

Hello hobby-go-lucky

the track is mth realtrax and the power is mth z-4000 transformer.  I had eight cars and lionel GG1 and could not pull the 8 cars but can pull 6. The curves are o-72 in a square oval using 4 30" inch straights. The main reason for selling the GG1 is the body is warped 

on one side (sold it cheap and forum member knows about the warp) The cars were oiled and still a lot of drag so i tested a single Williams GP-9 and that engine walked away with the whole 8 cars witgout slipping.  The GG1's magnet traction does not work on mth's nickel silver track which i knew that. Due to the drag of the cars and worm gear made of brass is not going to last long even with 2 in the GG 1. I decided to purchase Williams F-3 ABA and purchased 2 motorized kits to power the second "A" and "B" units makes all 3 powered thus lowing the wear and tear of the engines pulling the train. I have plans to buy more cars to add on to the 8 cars i have already. The 8th car is the #19105 which i have 2. That is my straight record.  The GG1 is a fine engine of its time but its time to move on. Any more questions you like to ask me about this if so ask away, smile

Tiffany

In aviation, steel wool and aluminum is a great big no-no.  Corrosion issues are the reason.  You want clear anodize.

http://www.atozmetalfinishing.com/anodize.php

http://www.practicalmachinist....odizing-cost-236300/

Tiffany, Mario's Trains has the Williams Scale Amtrak F7 AA set on sale for $154.99 less 15% if you use the coupon code, Williams15% and the F7 B unit for $81.00 before the discount.  Sure would be a lot easier than trying to transform those Amtrak cars to Santa Fe livery.  Heck, I may give away my Lionel F-3's and get a set myself.  

http://www.mariostrains.com/in...-a-set-amtrak-detail

http://www.mariostrains.com/in...b-unit-amtrak-detail

Hello hobby-go-lucky

How about i sell the cars to you and I can buy the williams santa fe cars instead? 

The cars are still in factory polished and still in the boxes.  They have NOT been painted

or anything done to them yet. I really dont want to mess with them as it is too much work for me as far as painting goes. I would be really happy with the williams santa fe aluminum cars. If you are interested in those cars, let me know and I am reasonable

if youre reasonable ok.

Tiffany

Do you have a link to the Williams Santa Fe cars or a model number?  I may have another idea.

Hello hobby-go-lucky

ok, i will go check on the bachmann/williams site for the stock number. Will check back shortly and post link here. Thanks

Tiffany

Hello hobby-go-lucky

i checked the bachmanntrains.com for the Williams Santa Fe aluminum cars and they only have the 2 car add-ons #43048 at 269.95 they dont have the other 4 car set But the

Western Depot has both sets 2 car add-on #43048 for 200.00 and the 4 car set #43098

for 280.00. I think other dealers may have those cars for less, i hope. Those are the red striped Santa Fe cars which i can peel off the red foil tape and paint the blue in that areas.  Thats much less work than to repaint the whole Amtrak cars. its something i can do. Please check it out and let me know how you would like to work this out ? I can live with 6 car williams set for the 8 car lionel set. 

Tiffany

Suspected you were looking at the red stripe.  What I was thinking is what you really may be wanting is the Lionel Surfliner 6-19180 four-car set and 6-15319 two-car add-on set.  These are the same length (16") as the Williams cars and made to run behind the Lionel scale Alco 6-18952 PA-1 and 6-18965 PB-1.  The catalog description says the finish is "chrome-look", but it has a satin or brushed rather than polished or mirror appearance.  The finish is a perfect match to the silver-painted ABS plastic locomotives, and the cars have no color stripes to remove or replace.

There's a new 6-19180 set presently available on eBay (w/pics) for $249 BIN and a new 6-15319 set on LCCA's eTrack (w/ just a pic of the unopened shipping box) for $150.  The eBay set is a relist, another new 6-19180 set sold on eBay for $168 less than two weeks ago, and the asking price of the eTrack add-on set is about what I paid eleven years ago, so I suggest making offers at lower prices.  You could reduce your cash outlay significantly and preclude unanticipated stripe-removal results.  Lots of pics available in the DASH catalog, too.      

I already have the seven Amtrak cars but can try to sell your eight cars, without compensation, if you want to drop ship those to one or more buyers.  I expect the cars may, at best, fetch $25 - $28 each.