I can't get most of my MTH locomotives to move after at least 5 years sitting on a shelf.

AC-6000,602,Amtrack 458,Premier 4-6-2 Blue Comet. I have a lot of engines and really don't know where to find the product #'s.

are they all ps1 or ps 2 5 volts boards!

Alan

Are the engines Proto-1 running in conventional?  You'll need a fully charged battery installed.

To my knowledge they are Proto 2. The boxes for the MTH #'s are in the attic which is too difficult to get to. I have the direction booklets but they do not have model #'s. I also substituted a 9v Alkaline battery with the same issues.

if your sure there proto 2 i would try a conventional reset after you replace the battery! with z4000 transformer ! They could be locked in neutral, do a reset  with z4000 bell n whistle combination n replace battery !

Alan

Five years sitting in a discharged state.   I would put them all on the track powered at full for half a day and see if they come back.  You might get lucky.

The bottom of most of my MTH engines have a small sticker that says PS2 or PS3.  I don't have any PS1 engines so I don't know if those have a sticker also.  

Do you have only a MTH Z-4000 transformer or do you have a MTH DCS system also?  If the engines are PS2 or 3, you need to start them up using the DCS remote or the Wifi before they will move.  Push startup on the remote.  The sounds and lights will come on.  PS1 engines are conventional only and do not respond to the DCS system.  

Assuming that you do not have a DCS system, you need to start the engines in conventional mode.  All MTH engines have a lockout that prevents them from starting in conventional mode if you initially raise the throttle above 10 volts.  This prevents the engine from racing down the track if someone, such as a kid, from pushing, the throttle handle all the way to full and the engine racing down the track and flying off the layout on the first curve.  I dislike this feature but it is what it is.  

The conventional procedure to start an engine is to raise the MTH throttle handle to about 10 volts, then move the throttle back to 0 volts, and then raise the handle again.  The engine should start to move and the sounds come on.  If you move the handle above about 10 volts in the initial sequence, the engine will not start.  

You will most likely have to replace or recharge the batteries before the engines will run since the engines have been in storage for a long time.  This applies to PS1/2 engines.  The best way to recharge a battery is to remove it and use an MTH recharger or use the battery recharging port built into the engine or tender.   The other way to charge the battery is to let the engine sit on a powered track with about 10 volts applied the track for several hours.  This assumes that the battery is still good after sitting for years.  I have replaced all the batteries in my MTH PS2 engines with a BCR (battery replacement component) from  JW Trains.  This is a capacitor and you never have to worry about dead batteries again in PS1/2 engines.  You can get BCRs from most major train shops.  

PS3 engines do not have a battery and do not have to be charged first.  PS3 engines use a capacitor system instead.  

I hope that this is helpful.  NH Joe

The batteries will all need REPLACED.

Trying to charge them is a futile effort. These batteries do not have a five-year shelf life, especially if they have been sitting around in a discharged condition for years.

I can't help but read THIS THREAD and be amazed. Oh the irony...

You need to replace ALL batteries, and get the locomotives serviced.  By that I mean, lubricated, wheels and center rail pickups cleaned.  Gear boxes and worm gear housings probably need servicing.  Have them serviced and start up one at a time on a test track.  To get access to the product number - do you have an inventory?  If not, why not.

I am servicing them as I try to run them. I have 2 independent loops. One powered by a mth-z 4000 and another loop with a zw using a cab 1 remote Lionel. When I put each engine on the track they light up and they seem to be stuck in neutral. I just ordered 6 BCR because so far all the batteries are white not green.I just tried running the MTH P-2 Box Cab Premier Engine. When i power up the lights go on and the bell clangs 2 times and that's it. No engine sounds after that. I powered up with both transformers and the same results.????????????????????????? Thanks everybody for responding. I have been starting most of my Lionel without too much trouble conventional and newer.

@allan epstein posted:

I am servicing them as I try to run them. I have 2 independent loops. One powered by a mth-z 4000 and another loop with a zw using a cab 1 remote Lionel. When I put each engine on the track they light up and they seem to be stuck in neutral. I just ordered 6 BCR because so far all the batteries are white not green.I just tried running the MTH P-2 Box Cab Premier Engine. When i power up the lights go on and the bell clangs 2 times and that's it. No engine sounds after that.

With old/dead batteries, that all you get, i.e. the "2 clanks of death"!

I powered up with both transformers and the same results.?????????????????????????

Again,,,,,,,,,,,that's because the batteries are old & DEAD!!!!!!

Thanks everybody for responding. I have been starting most of my Lionel without too much trouble conventional and newer.

The death clanks are three. Two are pretty normal.

you SHOULD NOT POWER THEM UP AT ALL IF THEY HAVE WHITE BATTERIIES THEY ARE OVER 20 YEARS OLD!! COULD DO DAMAGE TO BOARDS!

Alan

Alan Marcus    Shouldn't they power up with a 9 volt?

yes, a brand new 9 volt should be able to run them for a short amount of time. Personally, I would use Energizer recharegeable batteries until the BCR's arrive, make sure they are fully charged before using / installing them.

If you are getting 2 clanks, they are PS-1 not PS-2.  Power up with your new alkaline battery.  Lower voltage to less than 10V on the Z-4000.  About 9 to 10V.  Press the direction button.  They should move.  If not power shutdown, wait 20secs.  Power back up, cycle handled from 16 to 8v and see it you get a ding, if so do again.  If you do you can go to 18 and do a reset according to instructions.  If it sticks at 1 and you can not move past one ding, there is a software conflict requiring reset with tech chips.   G

Thank you for your reply.