I Despise This Hole’s Location! Do You Too?

I thought I was the only one who felt this way!

Two options to make it easier. A ratcheting right angle screw driver Or get allen sheet metal screws and use a ball end allen driver.

Pete

To further what Pete said, small ratcheting screwdriver sets are all the rage these days, .....they’re the bees knees for that kinda work, ....I’m sure Ace Hardware or similar would have an inexpensive option, ......should be standard tool box fare for model railroading!...

Pat

You can't put a screwdriver through the hole in the middle of the gate blade because...?

@Boilermaker1 posted:

You can't put a screwdriver through the hole in the middle of the gate blade because...?

Because you can’t....

Stubby screwdriver.

Larry

Another approach might be taking the crossing gate with you to a hardware store that sells Hillman nuts and bolts to see if they have a nut and bolt that would work there.  I used very small Hillman nuts and bolts to hold my Gargraves uncoupling track actuators and Ross switch "panels" on my last layout's control panel.  The switch panel screws were much shorter than the ones holding the uncoupling track actuators.  They held those items without a problem for the 12 years I had that layout before taking it down to move to our "forever home".

Sorry the resolution isn't better, but these photos illustrate the nuts and bolts idea.

Not sure what size screw fits the hole. Buy a threaded say a 2 56 long screw. Cut off the head. Drill a tight whole in the layout surface and tap the screw and secure it in the hole with super glue. Keep it level while the glue sets. Leave enough of the screw sticking out to go through the crossing gates base and to secure it with a nut. The nut will need just a slight turn of a wrench and when cracked loose. You can use your fingers. The screws and ratcheting wrench will work. Except when using the wrench. You need to exert pressure downward to keep it from slipping as you turn it. You also need to turn it a number of times to extract the screw. Then after it’s up. You need to find the same hole again.

SCREWS?.....SCREWS?  You dont always need a screw! Might I offer using zip ties as a solution???

@harmonyards posted:

Because you can’t....

You can pop out the light bar, drive the screw in, pop the light bar back in.  That's what my dad did back in the 50's.

What I did on my show layout back in the 80's was glue and nail (predrilled holes) in two 1/4"x1/4" strips a tad wider than the inside dimension of the base, then let friction do its thing.  They stayed put under continuous operation of a train show and were easy on, easy off.

Sorry for the poor image quality.

Rusty

Plenty of solutions, a few mentioned above.

If this really bothers you?------Get a grip!!!

Dave

@Pat Shediack posted:

Another approach might be taking the crossing gate with you to a hardware store that sells Hillman nuts and bolts to see if they have a nut and bolt that would work there.  I used very small Hillman nuts and bolts to hold my Gargraves uncoupling track actuators and Ross switch "panels" on my last layout's control panel.  The switch panel screws were much shorter than the ones holding the uncoupling track actuators.  They held those items without a problem for the 12 years I had that layout before taking it down to move to our "forever home".

Sorry the resolution isn't better, but these photos illustrate the nuts and bolts idea.

Would have any better photos of this?  I'd like to see what you're suggesting.

Thanks,

George

@david1 posted:

Plenty of solutions, a few mentioned above.

If this really bothers you?------Get a grip!!!

Dave

I suggest YOU get a grip.

George

Anyone know where I can get a grip? All the dealers are sold out!

Self adhesive VELCRO.  It's sold at Hobby Lobby and Michael's

Rather than a threaded screw,  I used a thin nail long enough to penetrate the layout surface. On the underside, a friction fit leather nut from my pipe organ parts stock has held just fine. On one occasion when the signal mast was bumped, the nail-nut gave enough to cushion the blow..

Grips are located in the same aisle as the round toits

In the adjacent aisle are the gazintas and the gozontas

I was once busted by the police for having a vice-grip.

Alan

@G3750 posted:

Would have any better photos of this?  I'd like to see what you're suggesting.

Thanks,

George

G3750 --

George,

Here are some better photos

Front of Gargraves uncoupling controller with thin bolt from Hillman's going through controller's mounting hole and through the control panel.

Back of panel showing the bolt with the washers and nuts in place.  (Don't laugh too hard at my wire tagging -- it actually matched the Gargraves instructions.)  (And try not to roll on the floor laughing when you see where I made a copy of the wiring instructions and then "glue-painted" it right on the back of the panel.  I figured it would save hunting for a copy years later if I need it!)

When I took my last layout down last year before our move to our "forever home", I left all Gargraves controllers on their panel just as you see them here.

They worked just fine for the 12 years I had that layout, never coming loose or having wiring problems.  That panel and controllers can be easily re-installed on the next layout that I plan to build in 2021 or 2022.

I hope this info is helpful!

I'm sort of a astonished this thread is still going but, then again, maybe I'm not.

It took me a while to remember why I didn't have a similar issue.  Normally, I'm also bothered as all **** by poor design like this.  And it is poor design.

Then I remembered the reason I don't twitch in bed thinking about this particular issue: It's because I solved the problem long ago on a boyhood layout by not using a screw.  I used a nut and bolt.

Get yourself a #2 or maybe a #4 1.5" or 2" machine screw.  (I can't remember the exact lengths and diameters and they're not in front of me.)  Add a washer (for under the table) and a matching nut.  Drill a hole into the table top, slip the bolt through the gate accessory, the hole you drilled in the table, and finally the washer and tighten the nut onto the bolt/washer from underneath.  Presto.  Nice tight fit and no need to fight the gate to tighten it all up.

Here's an example but I'm sure your local Ace Hardware has them in one of those little slide-out drawers:

https://www.boltdepot.com/Mach...steel_18-8_4-40.aspx

No muss, no fuss, and a well-secured 252 or 262 crossing gate.

After you secure the side that's blocked by the gate, you can install a matching machine screw on the other side by simply drilling downward from the gate into the table top, once you make sure the accessory positioned to your liking.

Finally, use a Q-Tip or a modeler's paint brush to dab a little flat black Testors paint on the crowns of the silver screw heads so they blend in with the black base of the gate.

Steven J. Serenska

I'm still struggling to see why this is a big issue.   You can do it easily with manual tools or a power driver.

Never had a problem.  Maybe just use 1 screw on the other side.

May this be the the only problem you have you have!

@NYC Z-MAN posted:

Anyone know where I can get a grip? All the dealers are sold out!

Here's ya go!..and he's even familiar with running on rails!!!...

The guy pushing the grip must be second-in-charge....or vice grip!...maybe?

Not sure what dealer you would go to for these guys.  And they're probably not cheap, either!

The nut 'n bolt solution gets my KISS ("Keep It Simple, Simon") Award!

In reality, a grip is all he needs!

I have a Homasote base, so I just press a track nail in the hole with a flat bladed screw driver.

A screw seems like overkill.

Jon

@Matt Kramer posted:

Ever since I was a youngster building layouts, I’ve always hated trying to put a screw in this location on the good old Lionel crossing gate to secure it to the layout!  Such a pain in the backside... Sure, a right angle screwdriver and maybe pre-drilling the holes would help ease the pain... but dang!  Too many steps!  Does it irk you too?! Lol!

I'll bet you're sorry you posted this thread!   Since everyone has had their two-cents, I'll offer mine.  Just drill a hole through the arm in line with the screw below, problem solved.