I did it...Updated! 9-3-18

Looks to me like what's missing is just the connecting rod and the cylinder rod that rides in the cross head.  I'm green enough to not know if replacement parts are available.  I suspect that they can be found if not after-market then from donor engines of the same model/vintage.  

The good news is that you have a complete example on the opposite side of the engine that, most likely, is identical to the missing parts if not the mirror image.  As such, carefully handled they could serve as templates to manufacture your own replacements if you are so inclined.

Just took a second look and it looks like there's one other piece broken off on both sides that pivoted on a rivet on the lower edge of the body.  This was supposed to represent a mechanical oiler, I believe.  Again, if you were inclined you could fabricate two identical pieces that would go on both sides.

Luckily most all of the various linkage is available from Henning’s, Train Tender etc.

Steve

Do a search for Olsen’s Toy Train Parts, which has a “Library”.  The Library is the same as Lionel Service Manual, which lists Prewar & Postwar locos, etc., and shows your loco, with all the parts, with part numbers.  Every part you need for the 259 is available.  Good luck.

Thanks for the great help!....I've found the parts.  But I'm kind of unsure about drilling (?) that little rivet out and re-riveting that linkage that's mounted to the frame (or shell?) ....the rest I could probably figure out.  Any hints or thoughts?  I don't want to goof it up (it's not a mint example, but the finish is in decent shape). 

Thanks again!

Dean

Drilling is an option, but hardest to keep from spinning, which "from paint to scratches" never looks as good again. Not to mention accidental grabbing and hole enlargmeenl possibilities.  So, grinding wheel or a (preferably reinforced) cut off wheel in a Dremel is my go too. Cut the backside, grinding back and forth shaving the top off....and mask with tin can scraps, a putty knife, old butter knife, etc, if fussy; even tape though that is a "grabby" danger imo. You can set rivets by hammer & drift, anvils, special arbors in vices, pliars, or presses, some purpose built. Squeezing with non discript pliars works to set at times, and is also often the last bit of effort needed when one hangs up just short of removal  

Cutting a slot across a head can allow you to hold a blind head (or rounded hex bolts, stripped carrage bolt holes, etc) with a screwriver, hacksaw blade, exacto saw blade, feeler gauge, wire, etc.

Always buy extra rivets; cheap and you inevitably will screw one up; side collapse, head scratched, too tight, too loose, broken knurle(curl), bowed shaft, etc, etc. Not really hard; the job is Murpheys favorite. Tiny mistskes and swearing because you just know it IS so easy you'll want it to be perfect looking but corrective blows can never satisfy, so start again  

  Use sacrificial hardwood backers as your anvil on tin and good paint. Hard non marring hammers in a vice and nylon blocks can be useful too.

Taking reference photos is always a great idea. In addition, you might want to make simple drawings of any tricky areas/parts when it comes time to reassemble. Olsen's drawings are awesome! Enjoy, the 259 is a real little work horse, pulls freight and passenger cars just fine

Adriatic posted:

Drilling is an option, but hardest to keep from spinning, which "from paint to scratches" never looks as good again. Not to mention accidental grabbing and hole enlargmeenl possibilities.  So, grinding wheel or a (preferably reinforced) cut off wheel in a Dremel is my go too. Cut the backside, grinding back and forth shaving the top off....and mask with tin can scraps, a putty knife, old butter knife, etc, if fussy; even tape though that is a "grabby" danger imo. You can set rivets by hammer & drift, anvils, special arbors in vices, pliars, or presses, some purpose built. Squeezing with non discript pliars works to set at times, and is also often the last bit of effort needed when one hangs up just short of removal  

Cutting a slot across a head can allow you to hold a blind head (or rounded hex bolts, stripped carrage bolt holes, etc) with a screwriver, hacksaw blade, exacto saw blade, feeler gauge, wire, etc.

Always buy extra rivets; cheap and you inevitably will screw one up; side collapse, head scratched, too tight, too loose, broken knurle(curl), bowed shaft, etc, etc. Not really hard; the job is Murpheys favorite. Tiny mistskes and swearing because you just know it IS so easy you'll want it to be perfect looking but corrective blows can never satisfy, so start again  

This is such good direction and advice.  Thanks for taking the time to share it with me.   I don't have a ton of money in this set, so realistically, it should be a good engine to learn a little on....and not feel like I've ruined a high dollar collector piece, if it doesn't go perfect.  

It will be a week or so before I can give any time to this engine or getting the cars cleaned up....but I'm looking forward to it!....I want to have it running around our small 'table tree' this Christmas. 

 Thanks to all of you for sharing your experience with me....and I'd still love to hear from any of you with whatever advice you may have.

Keep us updated in this thread. 

   One of the smoothest and best rivet set tools I recall wasnt a common rivet set. It was my grandmother's clothing snap & eyelet tool in her sewing box, It was a chromed "compound pliar" about 18" long and 4-5" deep jaw, a mean bite for delicate hands. Heavy sewing/leather shoe eyelets need drifts, anvils & arbors and they set hollow rivets well too.  I bought a small eyelet kit and drift set at a "big-lot discount" store before (Out of Biz?) 

I restored three of these. I'm pretty sure I popped that linkage off the rivet from the backside with a small screwdriver between the linkage and the frame. The rivet then came out of the frame easily. I did not replace the rivet, I reused it. I reset the rivet to the linkage with a pair of needlenose pliers. No drilling necessary and I did not scratch my paint job. 

George

Here’s some pictures of mine.  Maybe they will help

And the tender that came with mine.

George S posted:

I restored three of these. I'm pretty sure I popped that linkage off the rivet from the backside with a small screwdriver between the linkage and the frame. The rivet then came out of the frame easily. I did not replace the rivet, I reused it. I reset the rivet to the linkage with a pair of needlenose pliers. No drilling necessary and I did not scratch my paint job. 

George

Great.....I'll probably give this a try....I hope you will be around and willing to answer (sometimes silly) questions when I get started.    Thanks so much for the info.   

Dean

jhz563 posted:

Here’s some pictures of mine.  Maybe they will help

And the tender that came with mine.

@jhz563 - These will be very helpful!   I appreciate you sharing them!

What a valuable resource this site is.  I have absolutely no local contact to help me along....and this is absolutely the first train I've ever owned.  Needless to say,  I sure need the help.   Thanks to all of you.

Hi again....well life got kind of busy, but I finally got the engine on a loop of track, as is.  On the test run, it started out real sluggish, but I suppose after a bit, the grease/crud warmed and loosened up some and it ran pretty good.  The reverse lever has no resistance when you move it and doesn't change the direction...so in addition to the linkage that is missing,  I want to think about fixing that, too.  I'm wondering if there is a good tutorial type video or thread on disassembly/reassembly....I've searched youtube and did find a decent one on a 262 by ChooChooVille.

I've also noticed on the #807 caboose that one of the axle boxes (?) is a little bent and causes slight rocking of the caboose. It likely got dropped or something and landed on it, I suppose....I'm not sure whether I will try to address that, or not.  I'm nervous that I might add to the problem.  Cosmetically, you can't see it at all, except for the slight  teetering...I'll share some pics of the cars at some point....I currently have them safely packed a way but will be getting around to cleaning and oiling, soon.

Keep in mind the lever does not really change directions. The e-unit does that and the lever disengages the e-unit to lock it in its last direction.

Steve

Forgive my ignorance....but I don't see anything but what looks like a switch to me.   This is an early 259...does it have an e-unit?  If you look at the pics, the screw on the right side of the 'switch' was loose...and no wire on it..and no spare wire hanging anywhere. The screw on the left has the wire to the light socket, twisted together with another wire....and another wire leading to the bottom of the unit somewhere.  

I don't think there's an E-unit there. That looks like a mechanical reverse lever. You need to have conductivity for that to work. Check that the connections are solid and there is no shorting. The wires could be the problem. The lever could be loose and the lever may not be conducting. Try to clean and tighten it.

George

After thinking about it...and staring at it for a bit...I bet the switch quit working and it was wired around, so it is always running forward.  All four screws should have leads on them I bet..one from each brush, one from the pick up roller and one from the field coil of motor.    I will un hook the wires and try to attach leads from transformer ...and then reverse them to figure it out...hopefully this week.  I wonder if I can repair it  or find a replacement for that switch.  

Looking at your photo that switch may not be bad. You should be able to tell before pulling it most times. One or more of the little round contacts may not be mating due to being smashed flat or the spring is missing/weak.  Attached are some drawings - bear in mind that both use the same switch but orientation is a bit different. I like to paint/draw orientation stripes on the old switch till you get used to doing these. New switches are available but will run about $25.

Looks like a rewire is needed for sure. Hope it helps.

I will look into the switch this evening....in the mean time, I found this very informative video on repairing the switch....it's part of a good series for newbs like me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOLLzUpe3Vw

So I just jumped head-long into it tonight.   It looks like I was partially right with my theory...I'm not sure how I missed it, but 2 of the screws are missing from the switch. My guess is they fell out and were lost....and somebody just wired it to run one direction...Messing around with a multimeter, it looks like it will work fine with screws.  Are the screws something special (besides teeny)?  I will use a lock washer of some type, too, if I can find them. 

I took the motor apart and cleaned it up...It needs re-wired and I imagine I will install new brushes.    And a new headlight. ,

So a couple beginner questions: 

-is 20 or 22 gauge wire ok for rewire?...

-what lubrication at the ends of the armature shaft?...if any. 

-I was thinking 'zoom spout' oil (turbine oil) for wheels (axles) and pickup wheels?....or something heavier?

I'll order the parts I need soon , including the linkage kit and extra rivets....When I get the motor and switch figured out, I start in on the that linkage....anything I am missing?

Thanks-

Dean