I wish someone would market the old Champ Decal-Set

Malcolm,

 

Try Solv-A-Set from Walthers.

I've used Solv-A-Set for years.

 

It seems a little 'stronger' than the micro set stuff.

 

I recommend after the decals dry, take a q-tip and wipe up the residue...after 15 yrs, some of my models are showing a brown residue stain around the decals.

Have been trying, just as this was posted, to get some teeny decals in the glass plate section of a headlight - teeny decals that had to be made up of two different decals to get my desired number. Have been using Microscale decal set, and the decals DON'T STAY PUT!! They are Champ decals........then I remembered, I have some Champion decal set......which kept the last headlight numbers on for 29 years!   Here's hoping for another 29 years.

And also 29 more years of life!

Malcolm,

I must agree with using Solv-A-Set. I've been using it for years, also. There has been times when I've had to use Micro-Sol. It's a love/hate relationship. LOL!

Malcolm why not take some of the last bottle to the nearest college campus chemistry dept and have them see what its made of. you might have an opportunity to make and market it!

I don't know if I've ever read this but...are you suppose to rinse off the model after using any of the decal setting solutions?  I would think they'd leave a film if you didn't.  Seems like I have but not every time.  I'm putting some old Champ Seaboard Air Line decals on a Williams brass 2-8-2 right now.  I've got them on and right now I'm letting the Solv-A-Set do its thing.

Thanks guys. I am using some Solv-a-set too. I did not like it either because of the surface tension problem. I added a couple of drops of photo-flo and it works much better. I still don't like it as much as the Champ.

 

Bob,

I wash all my models after decal application and rinse them with distilled water so there will be no water spots.

 

 

Malcolm

Just did a search and found decal setting solution by:

Tamiya

Testors Model Master

Mig

Aero-masters

Badger

 

I ordered one of each and will test all of it.

 

Malcolm

Would really like to read your results Malcolm. I don't do enough water slide decals anymore to really do the testing, but would trust the results from someone like yourself.

 

Thanks for sharing Malcolm.

 

Charlie

Our own Prof. Martin B might be able to do this. 

Probably could....but I've got enough grief in my life already.

 

I'm still using a bottle of Micro-Sol that's older than my daughter that's in grad school,

I'm still using a bottle of Micro-Sol that's older than my daughter that's in grad school

 

Wow Martin, I usually spill half of mine within a few minutes of opening the bottle

 

I bought 2 bottles of Solv-A-Set the last time I ordered something from Walthers...just in case.

 

Oh hey...I became a grandpa Oct 3rd!!!  My daughter working in Sicily had a 7lb-2oz boy!!!!!!!-!!   Hope he likes trains, cause that's what he's getting for every holiday that comes up.

That's awesome Bob. Congratulations!

Try cleaning/prepping the area where the decal will be applied with Micro-Set...

 

 

...apply the decal, remove excess water then apply Micro-Sol:

From the MicroScale FAQ webpage:

Basic Instructions for the Application of Microscale Waterslide Decals

1. The object to be decaled must have a clean and relatively smooth glossy surface.

1. Cut out the Decal lettering and dip in clean water (preferably Distilled water) anywhere from 10 to 20 seconds.  Note:  Some lettering might take a longer soaking time than other sheets.  Set the Decal on a damp paper towel for a short period of time or until the Decal slides freely on the backing paper.

1. Place Decal where desired on object.  It might be of help if a layer of Micro-Set is brushed on the object first and then place the Decal.  This process will allow the Decal to avoid the Silvering effect that can happen with just the water.  Work as fast as you can in placing the lettering as the Micro-Set starts the wrinkling of the Decal and setting it to the object.

1. Blot gently around the edges of the Decal with a paper towel or tissue to remove excess water and allow to dry completely.  Add more Micro-Set as necessary over the top of the Decal very carefully.  This process will make the Decal lettering a part of the model.

1. When placing a Decal on slightly irregular surfaces, use Micro-Sol.  This is the stronger of the two products and aids in soften the Decal to fill the contour, rivets and crevices on the object.  The setting solution also improves adhesion by eliminating the tiny bubbles that can be trapped under the Decal film.

1. When the Decals are completely dry, it is necessary to wash off the Decal glue and water spots from the object with a damp paper towel or you may brush the water on and then dab it dry.  Do not wipe the Decal lettering.  Drying time may vary, but allow several hours or overnight to before proceeding.

1. It is recommended that a clear protective coating be applied to the entire surface of the object.  The over spraying of the Decals will protect them from handling and seal the painted surface.

Thanks Matt, I know how to use it, I just don't like it. It does not work nearly as well as the other brands I have used.

 

Thanks, Malcolm

I have used Solvaset for years but I always thin it down with isopropyl. Too strong for me straight up, but works great thinned down. Cuts the surface tension that way too ;-)

Like you I think that Champ Decal-Set is superior to all of the other brands. Been using it since I was a wet behind the ears teenager... and I'm still wet behind the ears a whole lot of years later.

 

I bought an extra bottle or two when Champ was going out of business because l feared that the product may have died with Rich Meyer. 

 

If I could find it I'd share it with you... and I haven't been in a LHS for a long time as to see if anyone still stocks it.

I have used only Solvaset for years so I'm looking forward to reading your results. 

 

Add these to your tests: Mr Mark Setter, Mr Mark Softer

 

 

 

 

I keep bottles like this inside another container where they cannot fall over while I'm using them - takes discipline.  I have a large hunk of lead with a hole in middle for holding my soldering torch upright and safe.  Used to have a cork ring for holding Floquil bottles....

 

 

 

 

 Used to have a cork ring for holding Floquil bottles....

 

Martin, I miss Floquil!!

Me too!

 

Have you ever tried to blend in a Floquil Aged Concrete paint spill on a rug so it won't show

Martin,

I  read your comment too quickly and thought you said GRADE school. Grad school makes more sense, but, hey, if it was grade school, more power to you. However, I can't believe you would want to work THAT much longer.

I don't know why many of you are set with microset. A cheaper and better alternative is pledge with future shine. That one bottle lasts you possibly a lifetime.

The retirement clock is counting down steadily....

For some, the light at the end of the tunnel is an oncoming train.

For some, the light at the end of the tunnel is the entrance to the next tunnel

For some, the light at the end of the tunnel is the escape hatch, and it's open!

I use Micro-set/Sol only on Microscale decals and it works great! Anything stronger destroys those decals. I use Solvaset for everything else and have been well satisfied for over 40 years!

As I recall Champ set smelled like acetic acid/vinegar.  Walthers solvaset smells like ether.

 

Lately I have been using Microscale decal liquid film on all Champ sets as the decals seem to be disentigrating in the package with time.  The stuff seems to have an 

alcohol solvent and brushes on, dries quickly.

 

If the decal has broken down you don't find out till you soak it and then it is to late.

 

George Lasley

I had a bought a case of 12 bottles and put them away for reserves, when I went to get a bottle I found that all the bottles were brittle and cracked thus all bottles were empty.  so watch out.  if you think your white plastic bottle is a little brittle find a glass jar and transfer it asap.  wish I had.  Bob

FWIW department....

 

My long ago solution to bottle spillage (setting solutions, paint/solvents, liquid adhesives, et al) was ye olde block of wood with a not-all-the-way-through hole to set the working, loose-capped bottle in. 

 

Forstner bits are just the ticket for making a clean, flat-bottomed hole to set these buggers into.  My high-tech 3.5" square block of 2x4 has a 1.5" dia bore about 1.25" deep.  Since that flash of exasperated brilliance, nary a bottle lost to Old Phart's Syndrome....not covered under ACA, anyway.

 

As for the decal issues, I've found lots of tips in reading other non-railroad periodicals, such as Finescale Modeler.  The 'pros' have some amazing techniques...some of which I've tried, others I'm too skeptical of my own ability to master. 

 

One thing I do remember, though, is commentary that discoloration with aging can be a function of the decal adhesive between the film and the model.  Which is why some of the pros suggest removing the decal from the backing sheet, turning it over, and washing all of the glue off of it with distilled water and soft brush.  Then they'll place, maneuver, and bond the clean decal to the model on a film of Future.  Hey, from the photos of their finished models, it's tough to argue the technique. 

 

I don't think discoloration with aging as a function of the decal adhesive layer is as much a problem on newer decals as it may have been for older decals.  Then again, I probably won't be around long enough to verify that for myself.

 

Looking forward to your search for a Champ replacement, though.

 

KD