So if I want to have 2 independent loops separated by 2 FasTrack 036 switches how do I insulate between them? With tubular I put insulating pins between them. Thanks.
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You can remove the center pins from the Fastrack switches.
O.K. so you can remove the center pin that takes care of that since I don't have room between the switches for an insulated block section. Thanks guys.
There is also a 1 and 3/8 inch section of track that can be used as a block section. Underneath it has a wire that connects the break in center rails. You can remove that wire. Not sure if you have that room but just another option.
Hi Brad, Since you don't want to use the 1 3/8" center rail break section you'll need to make a center rail break. I've disassembled lots of FasTrack switches & have removed & replaced center rail pins. However, I would recomend you not take the switch apart, but cut the pins off flush. Then push the switchs together tight & make sure there is a visable gap at the rail break without any possibility of metal to metal contact. You may need to file the rail a little shorter to achive this.
Cut the pin anyway you want. A dremel cut off wheel works quite well, but go slow as not to melt the ballast. A 32 tooth or finer hacksaw can also be used.
Don't worry about the pin. If you change the layout later, you can simply hook a regular track into it & still get contact with 1/2 a pin. You can add power/ground feeders to that trackage also to make 100% sure of no power loss. Or.. you could go ahead & take the switch apart at that time & replace the pin. The pin is the same as a regular track center pin. Again, I would not take the switch apart to remove the pin. Also I would not force the pin out as it can loosen the contact tabs inside the switch for the center rail.
With the pins cut, using back to back 036 switches work quite well & the trains can pass this perfectly & seldom derail even with a "S" curve arrangement.
You can also inter wire the switch controls so the pair of switches can use only 1 controller. The non derail still works & will trigger both switches at the same time.
To do this you hook up one switch to controller in normal way. Then run jumper wires from out & thru to the 2nd switch. Do not jump the yellow or black wires, leave them vacant on 2nd switch. The OUTSIDE rails on inner & outter loops must be tied together electrically. Either at the transformer or with a jumper wire hooked to outside rail of each loop.
Now... Get this... If both switches are out or thru at the same time keep your red & green color coding for the jumpers to the 2nd switch. Mean both are out & thru.
But... suppose you want to have the straight branch on one hooked to curve on the other. Meaning, one switch thru, while the 2nd needs to be out to match up.
Simply switch positions of out & thru jumper on the 2nd switch.
The main reason to do this is saving space on the control panel.
Very best, Don Johnson
Brad, no way to squeeze a 1-3/8" section in there to make a block?
Here is a link to a YouTube video that may help you.
Brad,
Steims is absolutely right, I used the 1 3/8 sections in my layout for forming blocks
thru out the entire 5 level layout and they work perfect, just remove the wire and insert the mini track, instant block.
PCRR/Dave
Sounds like Brad wants to keep the 6" spacing between tracks... adding the 1 3/8 would mess that up. I have a few of these on my layout and DID take the switch apart and removed the center pin from each, then ground down a very small gap between them... works perfectly, and it's not too hard to remove the center pins. When you take the metal cover off the bottom of the switch, nothing falls out!
To restore the switches for "normal" use, just put the pins back.
Ed
Take the fitter pieces off the curve portion of the switches, they'll still be parallel just closer, then add the 1 3/8" block.
