Has anyone 3D printed insulating Pins for Gargraves Track?
I was going to try to create some but thought I'd check if anyone had tried this before?o
Would this idea even work?
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Some have used trimmer line. Put a little dent so it does not go all the way in.
I don't see why they couldn't be printed, they're pretty simple.
I wouldn’t even know where to begin. But if I was printing them. I wouldn’t make the pins all that tight. No need to force anything in there. The pin itself is not really providing anything other than keeping it in place. I would put a good size nub in the middle maybe even contoured to the shape of the railhead.
Gargraves does sell them. 800 is the item number.
@NJCJOE posted:
Yeah thanks, I knew they had them just thinking I only needed a few so I could make my own and save on shipping cost.
I use toothpicks. No problems I the last 7 years.
Something worth 3D printing would be insulated transition pins between GarGraves and tubular O. Toothpicks don't work well in that application, and cutting down a Lionel plastic pin on one end is a pain. I am happy to buy the premade ones for GarGraves to GarGraves. If you want to avoid shipping, buy them at a show, maybe. I have checked in with a parts vendor before a show to ensure what I needed would be there.
If I were 3D printing them I would copy the Ross style. They have a much beefier buffer between the rails.
Brendan
I don't use the pins at all. I slice the rail where I need to isolate, such as for crossing gates or a crossing signal, with a Dremel cutoff disc. I make sure I've cut all the way down the rail. l then cut a piece of styrene to fit the gap, superglue it in place and sand it to match the track's profile. Then I touch up paint it to match the color I've done for the track. Zero cost.
@Wood posted:I use toothpicks. No problems I the last 7 years.
That's what I do when Hennings is out of stock or if I don't feel like driving to Hennings. Been using them since the 80s without problems. Use the flat toothpicks, not the round ones.
@PeterA posted:I don't use the pins at all. I slice the rail where I need to isolate, such as for crossing gates or a crossing signal, with a Dremel cutoff disc. I make sure I've cut all the way down the rail. l then cut a piece of styrene to fit the gap, superglue it in place and sand it to match the track's profile. Then I touch up paint it to match the color I've done for the track. Zero cost.
I also use a Dremel cut off wheel and never worry about pins, But I just cut the gap; I don’t bother with styrene or anything else.
@Rich Melvin posted:I also use a Dremel cut off wheel and never worry about pins, But I just cut the gap; I don’t bother with styrene or anything else.
This is exactly what I do as well. No issues whatsoever.
