Is Proto-Sound 3.0 Worth the Extra $$$?

The biggest advantage of 3.0 is that it has no battery. This is trivial if you are running the unit often, but if the unit is stored long enough for the battery to run down, it can be a nuisance to have to charge it up when you take it out of storage. Sound quality is a bit better in 3.0, but the volume is weak on some models. Operationally, there isn't much difference. 

 

There are two versions of 2.0 - one with a 9-volt battery and one with a 3-volt battery pack. The version with the 9v battery (usually called 5v because that is the internal voltage of the motherboard) is obsolete and no replacement boards are available if the motherboard goes out. MTH does have a kit to upgrade to the later 3v board, but it's expensive. Replacement boards can be found on the secondary market, and there's at least one repairman (GGG) who is active on the main OGR board who can sometimes fix a 5v board. Any NIB PS/2 unit with a 9v battery is getting old and probably needs the battery replaced - either with a new NIMH cell or a BCR. Don't bother with a NiCd battery unless you have a stack of them lying around. A 3v battery pack should be OK and not need replacing.

 

Personally, I'd spend $100 for PS/3 over PS/2. Not sure I'd go 200. I'd be more inclined to spend the extra if the PS/2 in question was the older 5v version. You can the difference by looking at the charger port on the bottom of the tender. The newer 3v battery has a two-pin connector; the older 5v unit with the 9v battery has a concentric connection. 

5v 3v PS-2 boards work well for me. 

Older may be better because there is talk about the can motors not being as good as they used to be. Kirk and Chris can tell you more about this.

I have two PS3 standard gauge locomotives in my own collection, and I love 'em.  I'm not a fan of the batteries, and quite frankly I never was!

NO! I have Proto2 and 3 locomotives and the only advantage is no batteries. The sound is not improved and all the other options are the same as PS-2. In a proto-3 you get a LED headlight that has Rule 17 lighting affect.  Big deal.   I would say save your money and get the PS-2 version.

I don't have any standard gauge engines, but I do have two "O" scale trains with proto 3.0.  The sound is good, but I personally think it's a bit cheesy.  I typically keep the sound off.  I wish I had gotten the traditional engines instead.  Also, I have a Lionel Corporation/MTH 260e engine with proto 3.0.  I am not really a fan of the way they designed the coupler.  It has an electronic port built into the coupler itself.  I am really concerned that this will someday break and the engine will no longer operate.  The other issue I have is that the engine will only operate when the coupler is attached to the tender.  I wish I had purchased the the traditional engine because I am not really interested in the sound (it’s kind of a novelty for me personally), and I feel that I would have avoided future potential problems with the proto system by not having it in the first place.

No. Buy a BCR for your PS2.

It may just be me, but I think the sound is a bit better in the P2, but still not in the same class as Lionel and I HATE the LED headlights. All in all, still good with either.

 

Steve

I have 23 PS2 and 2 PS3.  I think the former are a bit more stable.  When the batteries go bad, which is over 8 years if used regularly, it can be replaced with a supercapacitor or a "BCR," which is a trade name for a supercapacitor with zener diodes to assure even cap charging.  15 of my PS2's now have no batteries.

So far I prefer the PS2 over the PS3 since the LED lights just do not look as good and the sound on the PS3 does not seem as good to me. My vote is for PS2.

I want to add I am not a fan of the PS3 drawbar since it limits the grade the engine can take and it is a pain to connect.

DEFINITELY do NOT purchase the P-2 version of the Brute! Changing the P-2 battery is a bear on this engine, as it involves significant dissassembly of the three sections of the engine to get to the battery, also increasing the probability of scratching the painted surfaces!  

Not worth the money to me, not ps1 or ps2 or ps3 I will stick with my 2 rail brass and custom built locos

Here are some of the difference that are part of the consideration for what is best for you versus your $$$

 

PS-3 can use PS-2 or PS-3 Sound files, has more memory so theoretically better audio files could be used.

 

Comes stock with supercaps, no battery.

 

Is not polarity sensitive like PS-2. Can detect DCS signal on either track.  Better for the 2 rail operators.

 

DCC capable also.

 

LED lights (Pro or Con)

 

For Steam you normally have more functions/features available in the engine, because it is a 2 board set.  One in Engine and one in tender.  Not limited by the 10 wire tether/drawbar of the PS-2.

 

PS-2 boards are more easily repairable especially at the component level.   G

IMO, one of the key differences is the two-board set for steamers.  You can have more control of lighting with the PS/3.

 

I'm not so enamored by the fact that there's very little that you can repair on the PS/3 board, when they're toasted, they're gone.  Many components can be repaired on the PS/2 boards.

 

I prefer LED's to incandescent, it's a shame that the PS-32 upgrade kit didn't accommodate LED's directly, at least as an option.

 

The 2-rail and DCC features, while not important to me, are real advances with the PS/3 package, I'm sure those folks will be happier with the PS/3 boards.

 

The price of progress, two steps forward, one step back.

 

 

If it's tinplate then you'll prolly want the ps2 version since it has light bulbs. I've got a PS3 tinplate Christmas train and the LEDs look odd. Id be much happier with the bulbs, now I am more than qualified to make the change but I won't because it's pretty low on my list of train mod priorities

Light bulbs may not be that easy with the PS/3 board as it's driving the LED's directly.

 

OK... Does anyone else feel old reading this thinking PS2 is "Old School" compared to PS3?

 

I would buy the less expensive PS2 version.  If it eventually fails, you can buy an upgrade kit with the extra money you saved in the first place.

 

Ron

 

Well GRJ, maybe I will build a light bulb driver board

MTH has already built it, but it clips onto the board the sell for upgrades.

 

It would actually be pretty easy to come up with a bulb driver board if you wanted to.

 

You might just consider selecting some better color LED's to improve the look.  Warm white or even some of the yellow ones would look better in tinplate.

 

On the subject of LED's, if a headlight burns out, do we need to get the replacement LED bulb from MTH or will one of the of the shelf types work, similar to what Town & Country sells?

 

thanks

 

Steve

First off, it should be a very rare occasion to have an LED fail without something bigger failing.  If it happens, garden variety LED's will work fine.  You just have to find them in the right size and color temperature.  I know several people that have already replaced the bright white LED's on some PS/3 steamers with warm-white.

 

 

actually led's are very tough mechanically and as john stated  led's very rarely go bad.

Alan

Pinch a wire and they go bad.  Have a current spike and they go bad.  I have had to replace LEDs on MTH engines that otherwise seem fine.  Nothing is indestructible in the toy train hobby. 

 

It is interesting how there is a love hate relationship with LEDs.  They clearly are not for everyone, yet others can't do without them.  G

LEDs are great for illuminating passenger cars, but I've never had such power supply deficiencies that LEDs vs grain of wheat incandescents as marker lights or headlights would make a difference.

Exactly.  Bayonets that pull 100 to 300ma are much different than GOW or GOR that are 30 to 60ma.   G

I don't know about others, but for me the LED headlights look a lot more like real headlights than the original anemic PS/2 bulbs.  I've used warm white and even yellow LED's to replace the bulbs, and I get a much more focused beam that looks great, especially on a darkened layout. 

 

I will say that many times I'll use small incandescent bulbs for number boards as they need a wider light angle to look good in most cases.  I also use incandescent bulbs for cab lights for the same reason.  Also, I don't want them to be as bright as headlights, I like a more subdued light level for those applications.

 

As far as lighting passenger cars, they're seem so vastly superior over incandescent lighting that it's hard to imagine too many arguing against that option.  Even the manufacturers are picking up on the LED lighting trend.

 

I like your adjectives.  Anemic.  We got it you love LEDs, but other don't, and frankly I disagree that PS-2 bulbs are anemic. 

 

It is easy to put in LEDs if you want, but seems a waste in areas such as number boards, firebox glow, and cab interior.

 

Probably part of the reason the PS-3 kits stuck with bulbs.  Plus no matter which ones they put in, someone would complain about warm white, golden, or white is better.  This way you get to chose what you want and how bright you light it via your resistor selection.  G

For the firebox glow, I like a few of the flickering LED bulbs behind the firebox bezel, looks a ton better than just a red light.

 

If you'll note, I specifically mentioned that I use incandescent bulbs in number boards and cab interior for their specific characteristics.  I'm not totally against them, I just use them where I feel their characteristics make them the best fit.

 

 

I do like protosound even in tinplate.

I like capacitors over batteries that is for sure!