Is there a way to make an MPC era diesel’s E-unit less “buzzy”

You can switch the e-unit off with the lever... it will be silent then.

If you’re not worried about keeping it “original”, you could replace it with an electronic reverse unit.

There are electronic E units that work great. The AC motor is another story. They are noisy. Find a good service tech. They can usually get the pullmors in tip top shape that will help. 

https://ogrforum.com/...n-series-with-e-unit

I have taken the e-unit apart and shimmed the plunger which is what is making the noise. I had to find some paper that was the right thickness and place it between the plunger and the cylinder. Tricky to do but made a world of difference. An electronic unit would be easier although in a post-war steam locomotive space may be a problem. 

Using needlenose pliers, VERY CAREFULLY adjust the angle of the pawl - the hook part connected to the plunger that also engages and rotates the barrel on the E-unit.   A tiny, imperceptable adjustment of the pawl angle will drastically reduce (maybe eliminate?) the buzz from the E-unit.

Dale

Thanks guys for the hints...  Not too worried about originality, it’s a “Preamble Express” #8568 that’s had an utterly fantastic respray to Western Maryland.  I like the diode idea very much, although perhaps making it actually happen, may be beyond my abilities. It seems that the plunger shim, or upgrade to an electronic unit would be easier for me to accomplish.  Provided it’s nearly a remove and replace job with minimal fabrication.  

Any ideas of what type, style, or common locomotive a direct fit electronic e-unit model may have a donor used example (eBay, parts hoarders)  or where a new off the shelf electronic e unit could be sourced from?  I’d hate to purchase an incorrect piece.  I can certainly solder, shim, or fabricate brackets etc... so any advice is again, greatly appreciated!

My Williams ABA Sharknose is completely silent, so I may have unrealistic expectations of what can be done. 

Thanks guys

Tom

  If you can solder, and have some mechanical ability, the bridge rectifier and capacitor mentioned in the diode thread is not hard. 

  It's an ideal rookie project.

  Worst case scenario, IF you use the cap(optional)and you screw up the CLEARLY MARKED cap to bridge leads(+to+=good) and pop the (cheap) capacitor like a firecracker (+ to - = bang! )

 And oh man will it stink 

The shipping might cost more than a BR & cap 

FlyPlanes-PlayTrains posted:

Thanks guys for the hints...  Not too worried about originality, it’s a “Preamble Express” #8568 that’s had an utterly fantastic respray to Western Maryland.  I like the diode idea very much, although perhaps making it actually happen, may be beyond my abilities. It seems that the plunger shim, or upgrade to an electronic unit would be easier for me to accomplish.  Provided it’s nearly a remove and replace job with minimal fabrication.  

Any ideas of what type, style, or common locomotive a direct fit electronic e-unit model may have a donor used example (eBay, parts hoarders)  or where a new off the shelf electronic e unit could be sourced from?  I’d hate to purchase an incorrect piece.  I can certainly solder, shim, or fabricate brackets etc... so any advice is again, greatly appreciated!

My Williams ABA Sharknose is completely silent, so I may have unrealistic expectations of what can be done. 

Thanks guys

Tom

as ADRIATIC mentioned, the BR & cap are simple and super cheap. Electronic E units are available new from vendors like Dallee Electronics. pricey, but nice equipment with no noise. Your Williams engines are equipped with modern can motors and electronic E units (unless they are really older pieces) so, yes your expectations have set the bar high.....even if you get an electronic eunit or silence the OE, you are still gonna get some motor noise from the AC pulmors, 

Here is their page.   Well worth it in my opinion no more annoying buzz. 😖

https://www.dallee.com/category/E-Units-11

Making the motor run quieter is a maybe. Thrust washers or set screw adjusting for the armature shaft can help. Spring tension on brushes too.

Thanks again everyone!  

Ill have to do my research on this tomorrow, I’ll bet there’s a descriptive thread, pictures, or even a video I can find here to help guide me through a BR & cap install.  My only trepidation is not knowing exactly which wires do what yet on my motor and e unit. Again, research time! The capacitor & rectifier sound easy, just want to be sure I’m soldering the correct leads. Also Dallee is right down the road from me, for $50 an electronic unit sounds tempting as well. I noticed they have install services, but anyone know if their units come with a wiring diagram for self installation? 

Sorry for all the questions, my mid life crisis has only recently rediscovered my boxes of old O gauge goodies. Last time I had any of the older stuff out, I still thought girls were icky. 

Tom

Other than this forum, can anyone chime in on a goto written “bible” to guide me through postwar innards?  Many years ago my day job was fixing Boeing & Airbus products, and I’ve been playing with ‘60s & ‘70s BMWs as a more recent hobby. I think I can do this with written guidance...

Tom

 Questions on how to is one of the reasons we are all here. On a BR its clearly marked by waves on the ac input (∼) and +/- on dc out.  On a couple metal cases Ive seen black & red terminals for dc side , plain on ac side.

The only thing, Im not sure if it was mentioned, is a possible to need to isolate the e unit from ground or relocate the coil wire to frame connection to coil wire to + or - .  

A Diode instead might even be all thats needed but the BR allows you to check both ways easier (vs assemble 4 diodes to make your own bridge rectifier... thats all one is, is 4 diodes in a nice case)

FlyPlanes-PlayTrains posted:

Other than this forum, can anyone chime in on a goto written “bible” to guide me through postwar innards?  Many years ago my day job was fixing Boeing & Airbus products, and I’ve been playing with ‘60s & ‘70s BMWs as a more recent hobby. I think I can do this with written guidance...

 

Tom

 Lionel service manuals... 

  But you'll likely be asking for help on things anyhow   The experience here overides the manuals at times too.

  Most of it simple and varies little from engine to engine. Imo the best help is an exploded diagram on occasion. The wiring varies by model for lamps and smoke, but the differences kinda trivial. You just need to nail the basics and apply a little mechanical experience & common sense.

  E units designs are either 2 position or 3 (F,N,R) mounting differs.

  There is only two ways to reverse an open frame ac motor, most Lionels do that by flipping the brush connections at the e unit. (the other few flip the field wires)

  With an eunit diagram and knowing you just need to swap one or the other on the motor the puzzle is simple.  

  The rest is engine specific, likely requiring wheel pulling at least (just like any mechanical pulling) , pressing takes arbor press & wheel arbor cups to do 100% right, but a vice or even hammer may be a possibility youd never see in a manual.

   Check your brushes & springs, oil shafts, grease gears, polish copper. clean coil's(magnet wire)with quality electric spray/wd40 or naptha as to not weaken the coating. (wd40 is not an lube!)

  Its not hard, you just haven't done it yet.

I have some Weaver electronic reverse boards from Locomotives I converted. They are old and I can’t test them but they are yours for the price of shipping if you want them.