Kemtron Mogul radius limitations.

I don't have one but If I guess, I think it will handle that.     It is from an older era when 48 inch radius was considered standard.   Most of the contemporary kit models from back then were stated to handle around 40 inch radius.   If I remember, all the the All Nation steamers were listed as 40-42 with the possible exception of the pacific.   they had a 10 wheeler, a 4-4-0 and a very nice prairie.    I the Saginaw and CLW PRR locos were rated well under 48 inch radius.     

so this is just a guess.

If it is nearby and you can check it out, temporarily lay a piece of flex track at that radius and set it on it and see.

I've had two of them (both sold a few years ago). I had no trouble at all running them on 36" radius curves, and in fact they would sneak around the old AHM curved sections, which I believe were 32.5" radius.

Jeff C

brother love 36 radius was no problem for the kemtron mogul. it actually didn't look bad on that small radius. if it was assembled well it was a terrific loco you should enjoy it.

Malcom

Wish I could find one too

Mike P

As I've mentioned, I have owned two of these, and both of them had a bind in the side rods when they were purchased. My first loco was an easy fix--I just had to do a little filing, but the second loco needed major reworking to make it right.

I also needed to do major cleanup on the soldering work on both engines, which (after talking to other owners) seems to be a normal thing, as many of these locos have been poorly assembled.

None of the above would stop me from buying another Wabash Mogul, they are easy engines to work on and modify. But I would try very hard to inspect one of these personally before buying, or at the very least, make sure I saw plenty of pictures before paying top dollar for one.

Jeff C

Fellas,

Thank you for the input and info. I am about to get one of the Moguls. Jeff, I do not have pics but I am getting from a person that I trust.

Malcolm

I think you will like it a lot. I have quite a few parts for that loco so contact me if you need something.

Jeff C

Jeff C

I too am purchasing one that is missing a rear tender step.  Would you have any to sell?

Mike P

Mike;

Check PSC part #PS-5133, Wabash tender steps.

Allan

Michael,

I'm out of town right now but I will check my parts stash this weekend for you.

Jeff C

Michael,

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I do have one package of the PSC tender steps, which come two to a package, part #5133.

if you are still interested contact me at leikec@yahoo.com and give me your address.

Again, sorry for the delay in replying.

Jeff C

I got my Mogul and it will not operate on my curves. I really like this little steamer so I am going to work with it and see if I can get it to work. The first thing I plan to do is turn the center driver set and make them blind. I believe that will allow it to run on my layout. If it does not it won;t hurt the loco anyway. My curves are 44 and 46 but it still try to climb the rails. There is very little side play in the drivers (I wish there was). Everything else I have runs fine and I have checked and rechecked the gauge on the track, It is code 125 rail and the flanges may be climbing on a spike so I am checking those too. I am determined to make it work.

There are a few small details loose or missing but I can fix those too, mostly brake shoes and handrail stanchions.

We will see if I am successful or not ;&gt.

Thanks for all the help, Malcolm

"I got my Mogul and it will not operate on my curves. I really like this little steamer so I am going to work with it and see if I can get it to work. The first thing I plan to do is turn the center driver set and make them blind. I believe that will allow it to run on my layout. If it does not it won;t hurt the loco anyway. My curves are 44 and 46 but it still try to climb the rails. There is very little side play in the drivers (I wish there was). Everything else I have runs fine and I have checked and rechecked the gauge on the track, It is code 125 rail and the flanges may be climbing on a spike so I am checking those too. I am determined to make it work.

   Code 125 should be tall enough to keep the spikes from hitting the flanges.  If it's just de-railing in the curves you might just be able to widen the gauge a bit it on the curves to give the drivers some slack. It seems like a small steamer like that should be able to run around 44 inch radius. I don't know how big you layout is but if it's not too hard I'd widen one curve to start and see if that solves it before tearing apart the loco, that way you wouldn't have to modify other locos if you get more with the same problem someday....DaveB

No way...

it should go around those easy. I wonder if there is enough side play in the drivers/frame. Again, my engines got around the old AHM sectional curves, which I think are 32.5" radius.

Jeff C

edit--I see you mentioned the side play. Mine both had quite a bit and performed fine. I'd check that closely before grinding on driver tires...

I agree - even solidly held drivers ought to make it around 40" curves.  First thing to do - remove the lead truck and release the tender drawbar.  Try it.  You might have to tie a string to keep the tender following.

If that doesn't work, check the gauge of all drivers, and the track.  Older Atlas track can shrink after many years.  Be sure all drivers are level - just put it on a plate of glass, and see if you can slide thin paper under any of the flanges.

If all of that fails to improve operation, remove the rear driver, trim some material off of the slot where it goes, and try again.  If you have to do this, it won't take very much.

Very few Moguls needed blind center drivers - it would be a shame to modify a good Kemtron Mogul - it had a very specific prototype.

Something I have run into when there is difficulty running a loco on minimum radius track.

That was track which in reality has a tighter radius than the owner thinks it is.  Sometimes tighter only in a few spots.  A trammel will tell the truth.

Consider holding off on cutting down the flange.

Also, some pieces of OP flex track had a slightly narrow gauge to where the OP track gauge would not drop down on one of the rail heads.

It's only when working in the minimum radius range that some of these things surface.

Ok guys, I will not blind the drivers. I did remove the center driver last night and found 2 shim washers on each side (on all the drivers). I think that may be taking up all my side play. I may remove those and try it without them. My track is all handlaid and I have checked every area where the derailment are and it is within gauge (using NMRA gauge).

I will post again tonight after a little more tinkering. This is a great little loco and it runs really, really good (when it statys on the track).

Thanks, Malcolm

Malcom

Please post some pics of the Mogul and maybe a video

Mike P

"My track is all handlaid and I have checked every area where the derailment are and it is within gauge (using NMRA gauge)."

   Is it near the wide part of the gauge and not the narrow part? Curves can be a bit wider than the gauge to help out rigid wheelbase locos, regular O wheels are wide enough to tolerate wide gauge. The other thing to look for is unfair spots or kinks that might be too abrupt but my guess is you already know this if you've hand laid the whole layout :> so I'm thinking those removed washers will do the trick! ...DaveB

Fellas,

Thanks again and here is what I've found. The drivers will have more play w/o the shims, done! The drivers are not level when place on glass. How do I correct that?

I am thinking of complete disassembly and clean, lube and re-assemble. I want to get it right before I re-paint it. I runs smooth as silk on straight track.

Malcolm

When you get it apart check the straightness of the frame.  It may need a bit of twisting to get it back to level.   It may also just be a bit of dirt trapped under a journal.

Jim, thank you. I would like to find a copy of the instructions/drawings for this loco, it would be a great help.

Malcolm, I have a scanned copy I'll email you if I can find your e-address.

Charlie