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I an planning on repainting a pair of GP9's in the B&O dark blue black gray as shown in pictures. I will also be adding ERR cruise with diesel sounds, Electro couplers in the Dummy unit and A pair of DC motors in the powered unit. Does anyone know a good match for the paint for the dark blue? Also any sources for the correct decals. I have some microscale 48-572 sets That are for the F and FA units but they do not quite match. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

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Last edited by farmer fred
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Farmer Fred,

 

     For years (1970s - 90s) we used either Floquil Dark Blue or Scalecoat B&O Royal Blue as our B&O blue color, as it looked right under our lights.  Floquil Dark Blue was also recommended by the B&O Historical Society at that time.  Floquil's chemical makeup has changed since then, so the color may have shifted.  I actually preferred Scalecoat because it gave me a good gloss base for applying decals.  We actually found the gray to be the most difficult to duplicate.  We started with D&H Gray and darkened it a bit with a touch of engine black and just a whiff(!) of Coach Olive, depending on whether the locomotive would run under incandescent or fluorescent lights.  Of course, natural sunlight is a different story altogether....

 

     Decals were difficult.  We used Champion (no longer made) 0 scale Steam engine sets; there may be lettering in Microscale's 0 Scale Passenger sets that will fit, but it might take some cut and fit.

 

     Best of luck on your project; it sounds like fun.

 

V/R,

 

Mike



Mike, thanks for the paint tips. I will check them out. I checked the strips in my old 48-572 Microscale B&O sets and I think they will work. If not I may just paint the black stripe and apply gold decal strips to the edge. I have a Paasche VL air brush I will use to paint it so If I have to paint the black stripe no big deal. Have you found a good way to remove paint from the plastic shell? One of mine that I plan on using has been repainted before I got it and if I paint it again I will lose much of the detail.

Thanks

FF,
 
    Your photos are coming out fine as attachments.
 
      I forgot that Microscale supplied the black stripe outlined in Dulux Gold; we always painted the black stripe rather than try to use a decal of that size; there was too much chance of air bubbles hiding out until the final clear coat was applied. 
 
     As for paint removal, we used everything from proprietary paint removers like Scalecoat's, brake fluid, Pine Sol, isopropyl alcohol, and even laundry detergent powder dissolved in hot water (Tide seemed to work the best).  In addition we once tried baking soda blasting with a Paasche air eraser, which I don't recommend on plastics.  The type of paint used, the type of substrate used (various plastics, diecast, brass, etc) and even the year(s) of manufacture of the model are all important variables to consider; some manufacturers have changed their material or paint formulas over the years.
 
     There are more qualified painters on this forum to whose expertise I cheerfully defer.  These are just my observations.
 
     Looking forward to photos of your work.
 
V/R,
 
Mike
 
Originally Posted by farmer fred:

Mike, thanks for the paint tips. I will check them out. I checked the strips in my old 48-572 Microscale B&O sets and I think they will work. If not I may just paint the black stripe and apply gold decal strips to the edge. I have a Paasche VL air brush I will use to paint it so If I have to paint the black stripe no big deal. Have you found a good way to remove paint from the plastic shell? One of mine that I plan on using has been repainted before I got it and if I paint it again I will lose much of the detail.

Thanks

Andrew, I am using a Lionel 2348 Minneapolis & St Louis GP9 for the powered unit and a Northern Pacific 8668 for the un powered dummy. The 2348 was bought a number of years ago at a garage sale and it has been repainted before and never has ran well. I got the dummy on our favorite auction site for a real good price just to do this upgrade. For the powered unit I have a ERR cruise conversion with diesel sounds along with a pair of new powered trucks and DC motors I got as part of a pair of Diesels I bought a few years back. I am adding a 6-22692 upgrade kit to the unpowered unit that will give me operating couplers and directional lighting to it. I will be able to set them up as a MU and control with my Cab1. I think it will be a fun unit to operate and should be fairly simple conversion. When I get started I will post pictures.
 
Originally Posted by falconservice:

What are the original models you are starting with to do this painting?

 

Andrew

 

I started on the TMCC upgrades yesterday. Installing the electrocoupler and light ing upgrade to the dummy unit was easy. Converting the powered unit to dual motors and stuffing it all in the narrow GP-9 shell is going to be a challange. I have the chassis modified for the second power unit, that was not so bad, a little time with a drill and dremel tool and it went right in. The issue is installing the ERR cruise and sound boards along with the speaker. I spoke to Boxcar bill last night to order some parts and he gave me a few ideas to try. I ordered some electrocouplers from him along with more led lights. The powered unit will also have operating couplers at both ends. I left the camera in the shop last night so no pictures yet. Will post some tonight. I ordered paint from Scalecoat so as soon as I have the TMCC conversion done and am sure it is working properly I will start the repaint.

Later

I have put the speaker in the fuel tank by cutting the tank in two and making it wider. Also built a  fuel tank for a second engine I had.

I put the ERR commander and RS4 in a GP-7u with the power in the trucks. The body is empty.

I rised up the RS4 broad on .250x.250"plastic so to run some of the wires under the broad. Also built a box for the floor of the engine cab and added weight with BB's.

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Lionel fuel tank cut into and widen for RS4 speaker.

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I don't think I have pictures, I just cut the down the center and added in styrene. I use the plastic "FOR SALE" signs from Wal-Mart for the styrene. Also need to add styrene to build up between the tank and the bottom of the engine,this will also give you a place to srcew the tank to the bottom of the engine. 

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This fuel tank I built out of styrene and it has a speaker in it. The air tanks are wood dow rods.

Also on the lionel fuel tank I added styrene tubes between the end of the lionel air tanks so that it looks like the tanks are all there. I try to get some picuture tomorrow.

 

 

 

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CBS072, thanks for the tip on widening the fuel tank. If you have any other pictures it would be helpful. I am changing the handrails on both of my units to the 2 piece type that use the plastic stands and wire rails and will be adding other details as I find the parts. This is the first time I have attempted something like this and I am enjoying it. I will probably have more in it $$$ than if I had bought a pair of B&O GP-9's but these will be something I can be proud of it they turn out well. I welcome all hints and suggestions.

Farmer Fred here's a few pictures of some of the EMD fuel tanks that I have reworked or built. These are not to scale and are not just like the real one's,

 

Cut and widen lionel tank with speaker on GP-7u

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Slug tank with Atlas O GP air tanks, Tank is full of BB's for added weight, just like on most slugs.

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Home made tank with speaker on GP-20u  

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Home made Switcher tank to replace a K-line switcher tank.

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This is my newest tank on a K-line MP-15 switcher built from the curved ends of a plastic fence post

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The part of the plastic fence that I used. I made the bottom curve of the fuel tank from the corners of the fence post.

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Atlas O has parts for thier GP-7's and other locomotives on their website. These work for me, it's my railroad and I do as I please and make locomotives that I want but may be not have the details or look just like the real locomotives.

 

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Thanks for the pictures, I will check out the Atlas O website. I like your way of thinking. When building  your layout and modifing engines the only person you have to please is your self.
Originally Posted by CBS072:

Farmer Fred here's a few pictures of some of the EMD fuel tanks that I have reworked or built. These are not to scale and are not just like the real one's,

 

Cut and widen lionel tank with speaker on GP-7u

100_2231

Slug tank with Atlas O GP air tanks, Tank is full of BB's for added weight, just like on most slugs.

100_2233

Home made tank with speaker on GP-20u  

100_2237

Home made Switcher tank to replace a K-line switcher tank.

100_2240

This is my newest tank on a K-line MP-15 switcher built from the curved ends of a plastic fence post

100_2239

The part of the plastic fence that I used. I made the bottom curve of the fuel tank from the corners of the fence post.

100_2241

Atlas O has parts for thier GP-7's and other locomotives on their website. These work for me, it's my railroad and I do as I please and make locomotives that I want but may be not have the details or look just like the real locomotives.

 

 

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