KLINE MP15 SWITCHER WIRING HELP?

I changed the motor wiring to series and it runs much better. All I had to do was connect the orange wires from each motor together.  Now it will stay on the track when my 3 year old daughter Runs it. Thanks, Jon

I am wondering if the new/old K line switchers from RMT have addressed that old problem with the rocket like take off? Maybe Walter from RMT will jump in here and give us some idea of what to expect.

I'll start off with your concern Chris.

 

Yes, RMT has addressed this. The motors in the RMT Bang's and RDC Buddy locos are a higher voltage type, so one could safely assume the forthcoming MP-15's will use the same motor. Some think it is changes to the circuit board. It's isn't just the circuit board, although RMT could have made changes to that also. As is out of the box, the RMT Bang's and Buddies need more current to run than do the predecessor K-Line made versions.

 

But I know it is the motors, because I have pulled apart two units made at different times, and rewired the units to run on straight DC current, by-passing the circuit board. The normal B-U setting (0-11 volts) on my Lionel 1033 transformer is NOT enough current to run the RMT units - even without the circuit board - at any more than a crawl when pulling even a short light train. They absolutely need the higher voltage A-U setting (5-16 volts).

 

I'll add a clarification, that I have a rectifier box between the transformer and track, so I am using the Lionel 1033 but still running the trains on DC current.

 

So there's also a recommendation for you Jon, if you are ever thinking of getting another low cost, non-command type of loco. The RMT Bang S-4 or the RDC Buddy should be safe with your daughter running the trains.

 

Also as you can read above, the Lionel 1033 transformer is an excellent child friendly transformer because of the two possible track voltage settings. The B-U post setting is very good to use with kids running the trains. I used to have a kid-friendly traveling train layout, where kids were allowed to run the trains. Using the 1033 with the B-U setting, I never had a child run the trains off the layout. And these were all cheaper non-command types of locos like the K-Line MP-15, Alco FA and S-2 switchers.

 

Using the 1033, I have never found it necessary to rewire any locomotive in series to slow them down. And I can run locos at a crawl if I want to.

Is this half-wave with a diode, or full wave with a diode bridge?  The reason I ask is stuff like the BEEP are pretty speed limited anyway.  I can run one with 18 volts on the track, and it's not any speed demon at that full voltage.  I just plopped one on the track with 18V and it made a leisurely trip around the loop.

Full wave John, inspired by the one made by Lionel in the early 1990's fun running G scale engines with regular Lionel transformers.

 

It was by accident, when I fried a circuit board on a Industrial Switcher, but I found many of the simplier, less expensive types of engines I have just run better on DC current. And on real small locos, like the Lionel Industrial Switcher, removing the circuit board allows room inside for added weight, which makes for much improved pulling power on that one.

 

You are right about the Beeps: they do not have a fast speed issue. I don't have a Beep anymore. I had so much trouble with mine shorting out on switch tracks. I tried messing around with it and finally gave up. I modified a chassis from a Lionel Industrial Switcher, and modified the Beep shell a little and made my own version, which runs much better, at least for my tastes. It certainly pulls far better than the single Beep ever did, but single Beeps are not known for their pulling power.

Pulling power is NOT their strong suit, that's for sure!

How would a pair of Beeps be?  I am planning on double heading them In the near future. Will I be happy?

I am also thinking of buying a Bang in the near future, do they pull well?

I was not very happy with the Kline MP15 until I rewired it last night.  Now it runs And pulls pretty well.

I am currently powering my layout with a older MRC dual power with the hand held controls.

 

thank you, Jon

 

The Bang is a totally different locomotive.  I have one here, and it will need some speed control, it takes off pretty quickly on about 4.5 volts, the lowest I can go, and by the time I'm at 11-12 volts, it's about to leave the rails on an O72 loop.  It will have a lot more pulling power than the BEEP, but it's still pretty light, it weighs in at 1 pound and 14oz.

It sounds like the bang will need to be slowed down.  I am planning to buy one next.  I am hoping it will run better than the Kline switcher.

If I keep this one, I'll probably put TMCC in it, so I'll have speed control.  It has standard couplers, so I can add electrocouplers, etc. easily.

That sounds like a good idea.  I have not used TMCC yet.  I do plan to upgrade in the future.  It sounds like it would cure a lot of my issues.

Anything I plan on running has to have command.  The only time I use conventional is for testing someone else's stuff or just running something that I plan on converting to make sure all the running gear works.

 

Some K-line engines have a Series/Parallel switch installed so no rewiring necessary.  G