LC 0-8-0 climbs out of Fastrack 048 switch

Do you have a set of calipers or dividers to measure between the flanges where they meet the tire? Should be less than 1.25” preferably less than 1.24”.

Did you order an NMRA wheel gauge? If so they are meant for scale flanges.

Pete

John, I think you're almost there.  Filing a bit more off of the entire length of the tapered part of the outside point should fix it.  Here are some pics of one of the O48 RH switches I've modified for this scenario for an outbound curve leading directly into the points end of a switch.

@Norton posted:

Do you have a set of calipers or dividers to measure between the flanges where they meet the tire? Should be less than 1.25” preferably leass than 1.24”.

Did you order an NMRA wheel gauge? If so they are meant for scale flanges.

Pete

Vernier metric caliper:

31.3mm  which equals 1.23"

John

@SteveH posted:

John, I think you're almost there.  Filing a bit more off of the entire length of the tapered part of the outside point should fix it.  Here are some pics of one of the O48 RH switches I've modified for this scenario for an outbound curve leading directly into the points end of a switch.

Oh, OK Steve.

So the filed area is actually rounded the way it looks in the top photo instead of beveled.  Just ordered a set of points (and a few other things) just in case.  Will do that in the AM tomorrow.

Thanks as always,

John

EDIT:  Didn't order the points.  They are unavailable.

@Craftech yes the tip is slightly rounded when viewed in profile.  But the main difference is the comparative thinness of the entire tapered part of the point.  Comparing the views from the top, yours is still a little thicker than I think it may need to be to achieve the desired result.

To clarify, most of the material is removed from the outside of the point, shown by the blue line.  The material is removed for the entire length of the tapered part of the point from one red arrow to the other.

I have solved a similar problem by grinding the point and installing a short straight before the  switch. The straight takes the pressure off the outside drivers.

The problem is the straight wheel alignment of the 0-8-0 and a curve right before the switch. This has nothing to do with the points on the switch as you have them as close as possible already. The engine wants to keep going the way it is pointed in the curve. The simple solution is to place a 5.5" straight before the switch. I have experienced this several times and the straight track always corrects it. good luck

Broke the attachment hook off the left hand point (the one I was filing).  Part Number 610-2065-006.

It is unavailable from Lionel and I am not having any luck locating it.  I'll post in the wanted section of the forum otherwise I will have to try and find another 048 RH switch.  My fault for being careless.

John

EDIT:  Called Lionel.  They actually did have them and because I bought it directly from them they are sending me the part for free.  They are great.

It appears you have a curved section of track leading into that switch,   I had a similar situation with derails or splitting the switch.  Resolved by adding a straight section before the switch.    There were two other issues in my track system.   One was when running conventional the switch didn't get enough current to fully throw.

The other was a mechanical issue where I found a plastic burr was in the switch mechanism.   I opened the bottom of the switch,  cleared the tiny obstruction and every thing has been fine ever since.