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Hi everyone- just reassembled ground up 2353 restoration. Runs much better in reverse than forward. Pickups get very hot (power chassis)... everything was properly checked-wiring- and lubed with white lithium(shaft, spur gears in tailhousing, and complete clean of both armatures.. wheelsets also. Any ideas what could be causing the problem? Ran into this problem 20 years ago-can't remember what I did to fix it (nice to be 76 huh!) Thanks in advance!

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A non-exhaustive lists of a few thoughts:

  • Worm Shaft Bearings - these are directional and are easy to install incorrectly. Also should not be overlooked in cleaning/lubrication.
  • Ensure that the pickup rollers are clean and lubricated with something like CRC 2-26 where the roll on the pin.
  • Weak collector springs
  • Loose field mount studs

I know it uses horizontal motors.  Read the OP's first post, he took the motors apart.  I suspect that indeed does expose the bearings and thrust washers.

From what I gathered from OP, he removed the brushplate to clean the armature. Unless the gear was removed from the opposite end of the armature, no thrust washers, bearings or anything of the sort is liberated. I guess it is up to @GrandpaChooChoo to further clarify what was done.

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. The motors on 2333-2353 units are horizontal- I pulled off the brushplates, cleaned the armatures till they were bright, cleaned off the brushes and reinserted them into the brushplate with slots up top to catch the brush spring and put everything back together. The picture sent by franktrain was appreciated- as they say- a picture is worth a thousand words-the notch has to be on top. Collector springs are good, pickup rollers are near new. The gearshaft was lubed on the shaft tube indent and also with a small dab of white lithium in the bearing slot.  The pickup rollers have a black line down the middle (arcing?) rather than the usual shiny rub mark.

Still would like to know why the hot rollers and slow forward movement vs fast reverse operation...

The engines are worth the effort for me to get it right. Pics attached for inspiration to all. Long liveIMG_0032-006IMG_0045-005IMG_0070-002City of Los Angeles Passenger ABA finished on the test bed track/workbench September 2021City of Los Angeles ABA maiden run on my layout September 2021Lionel Postwar 2343 completed October 1, 2021 Lionel Postwar!IMG_0032-006

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Images (3)
  • City of Los Angeles Passenger ABA finished on the test bed track/workbench September 2021: Started as a rough 2343 ABA- love the art deco lettering of this paint scheme
  • City of Los Angeles ABA maiden run on my layout September 2021: on the layout with williams scale passenger cars in tow.
  • Lionel Postwar 2343  completed October 1, 2021: recently completed 2343- complete restoration- frame off - new cabs-even the beep beep horn workss.

You could check to see if the rims of the wheels are rubbing against the truck block. The worm drive puts a lateral force on the axle in only one direction when the loco is always run forward and can cause wear on one side only.   A variety of different split washers can be snapped over the axle to fix this, or the wheels can be pulled and new bearings installed.

Thanks to everyone who replied. Your suggestions were helpful. I have done many F-3's over the years- have 5 I am working on at present- need to buy parts to do that.  On this unit- I had a chassis I restored first, then the cabs got painted, then got 2 motors with connected eunit off an bay purchase several weeks ago. Bought front and rear powered trucks together from a different ebay vendor listing- and then put everything together for a trial run 2 days ago.

I got scammed on the rear truck.. I found the following after everyone's input 1) Took the motor off and verified my work on the motors- everything was perfect on front and back motors received from the first vendor. 2) Then I knew that the power trucks were the weak link from the second vendor.  Front truck checked out fine . 3) The rear power truck was loaded with grease and the bearings were both correctly placed with the notches topside when I pulled the top cover plate. 3) When I pulled the side frames off both sides of the rear truck and spun the wheels by hand, I noticed that the rear wheel set near the gear was turning properly- the front set was not . The wheel on the front right side was on the axel at an angle and rubbing against the power truck frame(totally glazed shiny one) which pulled off with a simple tug of my fingers.  With the wheel off, I continued to watch and saw the right side axel tip that protruded had a bend(not level when it turned).  Also noticed pound marks on the front of the wheel that pulled off easily. The left side front wheel was scuffed as well because the slop of the axel moving side to side in the frame when turned by the motor which caused the motor to bind and get hot under load.. Obviously not quartered properly. In short- well organized fraud. Thought I would check with old reliable (OGR readers Forum) first- get your feedback and then go after the seller( who had a 100% satisfaction rating) with Ebay in the loop. The hobby is still fun but I am really mad about this after all my hard work...

Pictures attached for all to view.

Regards to everybody!   

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Images (7)
  • IMG_0100: front right side bad wheel -rear view- very scuffed. axel hole is enlarged and off center
  • IMG_0098: removal of side frames
  • IMG_0101: left front wheel partial scuff because of axel sloop side to side
  • IMG_0103: alignment of wheel and axel
  • IMG_0105: rear wheelset of same power truck- notice that is has no shine- black as it should be.
  • IMG_0107: top view of the frame and removed rear motor from the rear power truck
  • IMG_0099: front side of bad wheel with pound marks

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