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Hi Guys, I read te previous post on this subject and it helped me quite a bit. but still need some more help.

I currently have and MTH NYC Mohawk with a QSI with no sound, very early version, And I also have an old ready to run Lionel with rail sounds and a damaged body ,but still works, ( I think you guys can see where I'm going with this) any way the board in the Mohawk is kaput so im trying to use the e-unit in it, all of the original electronics were in the coal tender and i have the wire tender plug in.

So i ave found that on the tender wires the red and the white power up the Rail sounds leaving me with a black and blue wire , the e-unit from Lionel has a red and black wire and a brown and grey wire. i tried to wire it up, as the last post on this subject said, considering the red and black from the Lionel board were the out put and brown and grey wher the power but i gots no luck . any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Guys

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I have a concern if this is the E-unit board you are attempting to use.



The problem is, that board has 1A rated rectifier diodes, and sure the TIP31 and TIP32 H bridge transistors have a max rating of 3A if properly heatshinked which they are not. These burn up all the time on a stock tiny can motor. At best that might take less 1A sustained current draw- considerably less.

On your wiring color statements: "the red and black from the Lionel board were the out put and brown and grey where the power"  Yes, that all is correct for the above style Lionel unit.



Your wiring order sounds off to me on the original PS1 tether. I'm trying to find a picture or example board as I have recently worked on PS1 board set with. hard wired tether that was blue, white, red, and black. I remember white being 3rd rail pickup power, but do not remember the rest of the color pattern.

An easy way to test the  PS1 engine is with a 9 volt battery.  This is enough to power the main drive motor on the bench.  You think right now it is black and blue. You also could validate and eliminate the other colors by using a meter to continuity test to frame ground and pickup roller.  It's only 4 wires. 2 to the main drive motor, 2 are power and ground source wires.



Sorry if there are mistakes, I'm typing this and just trying to help prevent you damaging that E-unit.

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  • mceclip0

Thank you, that is the exact board that I have I will have to sit down with my meter and start with the continuity tests

I really appreciate your response I’ll give it a shot and may be back

thanks

In a round about sort of way, Vernon is politely telling you: YOUR’E GONNA SMOKE YOUR STUFF! …that board ain’t gonna provide the amps you need to run that engine, let alone drag a train!….they could barely keep up with the little starter set engines they propelled……I’d suggest a Dalllee Electronics reverse unit with some oomf behind it that will work well with what you want to do,….here’s the deal, and I’ve seen a blue million starter sets do this, if it stalls, it smokes the board, and the stall can smoke the motor too,…..if I’m reading Vernon’s verbiage correctly, he’s kinda telling you DONT DO IT!..

Pat

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