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OK, cool. thx G. Good to know.

 

There are a couple of ways to fix this "EMI noise" issue without replacing a good EMI noisy fan motor. A decoupling cap can be added to the 5V rails or a small toroid can be added to the smoke unit power harness with a couple of turns on the toroid. This most likely will fix the problem and the cost in less than a $1.

I keep MTH fan motors in quantity.  For any issues with MTH stuff, I haven't even bothered trying to fix it, I just replace the motor.  It's significant to note that I've only had a few MTH motors, but I have a pile of about 20 Lionel motors that I've replaced, and I've already tossed some of them. 

 

For the life of me I can't see what's wrong with the Lionel motors, they run quiet, don't draw excessive current, for all common measurements they are just like a new one.  I keep meaning to hook up a 'scope and see if there are excessive noise spikes when they're running, but since the capacitors didn't damp them, I don't expect to see much.

John,

Would you send me a few of the motors that fail to start up and cause the 3 blinks?  I have yet to see one fail in the lab to run some tests to find out why this happens. 

 

The system looks for back-EMF to determine if the motor is running.  If no back-EMF, then it shuts-down, thinking the motor is stalled.  I have motors here that have worked since I designed the electronics, 4 years ago, and my testing indicates a variety of motors work well without failing. 

 

While does not seem to be a high failure item, but is annoying and something is going on, so a few motors may allow me to determine root cause of the issue.

 

Originally Posted by SantaFeFan:

John,

Would you send me a few of the motors that fail to start up and cause the 3 blinks?  I have yet to see one fail in the lab to run some tests to find out why this happens. 

 

The system looks for back-EMF to determine if the motor is running.  If no back-EMF, then it shuts-down, thinking the motor is stalled.  I have motors here that have worked since I designed the electronics, 4 years ago, and my testing indicates a variety of motors work well without failing. 

 

While does not seem to be a high failure item, but is annoying and something is going on, so a few motors may allow me to determine root cause of the issue.

 

Interesting about the back emf sensing. The fan in my new ES44ac would start up (I watched it from the removed battery/control cover). It ran at what looked like full speed for about 1 second and then quit followed by the 3 blinks. After an hour or so of starting it up, having it stop, 3 blinks, reset, kill power, send emails to Grzyboski's and Lionel, try again, it has become reliable. Canceled emails, wiggled the rear coupler and pilot and the 5 second buzzing went away when powering up the track. If I knew the circuit for powering the coupler, I could theorize what wire was pinched or not.

Runs great now. My only remaining thing is the little swinging window falling off the cab area. I'll figure out how to fix that, no real issue.

But I digress, the lack of back emf when the motor was clearly running, or lack of sensing it...is the question. Interesting are the original thoughts that an over sensitive circuit sensing the motor current was the issue, and instead it seems like the problem may be an under sensitive circuit sensing back emf.

Thanks for your input, it's very appreciated.

Originally Posted by SantaFeFan:

John,

Would you send me a few of the motors that fail to start up and cause the 3 blinks?  I have yet to see one fail in the lab to run some tests to find out why this happens. 

 

The system looks for back-EMF to determine if the motor is running.  If no back-EMF, then it shuts-down, thinking the motor is stalled.  I have motors here that have worked since I designed the electronics, 4 years ago, and my testing indicates a variety of motors work well without failing. 

 

While does not seem to be a high failure item, but is annoying and something is going on, so a few motors may allow me to determine root cause of the issue.

 

I'd be glad to Jon, I don't really have any use for them.  I'd love to know why they're getting flagged as failures, several I've tested seem to be perfectly fine.  I'll pack a few up and ship them out.

 

Would you email me an address where you'd like them shipped?

Originally Posted by SantaFeFan:

John,

Would you send me a few of the motors that fail to start up and cause the 3 blinks?  I have yet to see one fail in the lab to run some tests to find out why this happens. 

 

The system looks for back-EMF to determine if the motor is running.  If no back-EMF, then it shuts-down, thinking the motor is stalled.  I have motors here that have worked since I designed the electronics, 4 years ago, and my testing indicates a variety of motors work well without failing. 

 

While does not seem to be a high failure item, but is annoying and something is going on, so a few motors may allow me to determine root cause of the issue.

 

Jon

Thank you for replying to this thread.  I have heard numerous complaints about the 3 blinking lights not only here on the forum, but at my Club.  I just sent my new NS ES44ac Heritage Unit to customer service for this problem and I will be getting back on Monday.  It got the 3 blinking lights right out of the box.  I could hear the motor start-up every time I turned on the engine, but immediately quit resulting in the 3 blinking lights.  It has been frustrating to me and I know for others that we get a new engine and immediately this problem occurs.   Again, I appreciate you taking the time to look into this for all of us. 

Ken

I just got mine back from the service center for the front coupler buzzing (shorted wire) and the Fan Motor (Flashing Cab Light 3 times) However, they could not find anything wrong with the fan motor. I will be picking the engine up on Friday and will try running it again and see what happens.

 

Right now a little skiddish as I have three new ES44AC Engines, PRR 8102 and two 1846's..... and a 1848 Non Powered (it so far has no electrical issues)

Originally Posted by PRR2818:

I just got mine back from the service center for the front coupler buzzing (shorted wire) and the Fan Motor (Flashing Cab Light 3 times) However, they could not find anything wrong with the fan motor. I will be picking the engine up on Friday and will try running it again and see what happens.

 

Right now a little skiddish as I have three new ES44AC Engines, PRR 8102 and two 1846's..... and a 1848 Non Powered (it so far has no electrical issues)

My fan motor seems to have benefited from a little "running in". I haven't an answer for why that helps. I wonder how many warranty repairs are solved by running in by the time they get the engine for repair.

Originally Posted by GGG:

Interesting Jon.  How much back emf is actually generated on a small motor like these which effectively are run no load.  Could it be the sensitivity of the circuitry when it is installed in an engine?  G

Actually we can servo this small motor with the back-EMF produced, although we do not. The BEMF is needed in any motor to operate properly without heating up. 

 

Anything can be happening here, and I will make changes to resolve the problem.  We had two vendors for these fan motors; one vendors motors developed noise and 3 blinks quite often, and we stopped using them.  It may simply be that the supply chain has some of these problematic motors still getting to the consumer. 

 

However, it is possible the problem lies deeper in the hardware or code, and I will take action as needed to improve this problematic area.

 

Originally Posted by BigBoy4014:

Yes, One possibility are the brushes on the DC fan motor, they can create quite a bit of EMI noise and perhaps, only perhaps after a little running in, they get a little quieter (EMI wise)..

Yes I was thinking that smoothing (wearing) of the brushes. If I get another one like this I'm gonna try the running in again.

Originally Posted by jojofry:
Originally Posted by cjack:
Originally Posted by BigBoy4014:

Yes, One possibility are the brushes on the DC fan motor, they can create quite a bit of EMI noise and perhaps, only perhaps after a little running in, they get a little quieter (EMI wise)..

Yes I was thinking that smoothing (wearing) of the brushes. If I get another one like this I'm gonna try the running in again.

This a great theory but these micro motors don't have brushes ... At one time I was a expert r/c car motor tuner and the bushings on some of these micro motors are to big for the armature shaft and they have to much slop causing the noise .. The other issiue with these motors are there not  balanced or have bent shafts .It is very hard to balance cause of price And size.. All electric motors draw  the most amps and  torque at start up. The wire on the armature also choses the power they have The less wire the more rpm and less torque you have ..There also timing on electric motors to but not going there.. My whole guess on this is these motors are drawing to much power on start up causing this issiue .. But I am guessing .. On I side note testing the motor with out the fan on it will not get you a accurate draw on amps they have to have a load on them .. That is how we tested RC car motors with a flywheel Dyno.

 

Originally Posted by BigBoy4014:

       

Is the picture you show of a the Lionel or an MTH fan motor please? and yes, brushes look different but there is still emi generated noise by either brushes or little metal arms acting as brushes.


       





That is of a failed Lionel smoke unit motor as I stated in my pervious post there of a brush design there's no so called brushes in them . Not tring to argue but real brushes would change how these motors run.
Originally Posted by jojofry:
Brushes are a composite material that rides on the armature . There's none in these motors witch means there's no breaking in the brushes cause there's isn't any.

Actually, while what you traditionally call brushes is a graphite composite, there's nothing that says brush material can't be almost anything.

One of many quotes.

Currently most electric motor brushes in use are made of graphite, although in the past they were made of brass or copper.


The function of the "wires" determines their classification as brushes, not the material they're made of.  I wouldn't get hung up on the style of brushes.

 

Exact composition of the brush depends on the application. Graphite/carbon powder is commonly used. Copper is used for better conductance (rare for AC applications and not on automotive fuel pumps which run on carbon commutators). Binders, mostly phenol  or other resins or pitch, are mixed in so the powder holds its shape when compacted. Other additives include metal powders, and solid lubricants like MoS2, WS2. Much know-how and research is needed in order to define a brush grade mixture for each application or motor.

I have used Brushless DC motors/speed controllers in RC cars. They are fantastic and very powerful with hi RPM. They are efficient and have no brushes to maintain, Use less power, they are very expensive BUT they are very Quiet and typically do not generate EMI noise as brushed motors do. Brushless motors are slowly being used in commercial drills/hammer drills and screw driver tools. Again, they are very expensive. For Model trains and especially smoke units, there is really no need for brushless motors since they would be an overkill and very expensive. BUT, a brushed DC motor with a higher number of poles on its armature means a better and smoother running motor. LGB used to use a "seven pole Khuler motor" (SP?) in their steam and Diesel engines and they ran perfect for years...

I have two Legacy engines, (GP35 and DASH-9) both purchased new last month and both smoke units have failed pretty much out of the box.  Get the 3 blinking lights error code.   

 

My question is - does anyone know if Lionel will accept warranty work items at the Lionel booth at York?   If so, should I call for an RMA # before I go?  

 

UPDATE:  Yesterday I sent an email to Mike R at Lionel.   Got an "out of office" reply and was going to call the service center later today.   Looks like Mike forwarded my question about York drop off and I received a reply from Phil at the service center that I CAN drop off my two engines at York and the RA will be issued there.   Also sounds like the service center is still in Canfield, OH.  

 

UPDATE #2:  got another email from Lionel service center with an RA # and instructions on how to pack and mark boxes.  It's the standard boilerplate reply as if one was sending an item to them in Canfield.  

 

Certainly have to applaud Lionel for their customer oriented service!  

 

 

Tnx

Last edited by JB_GPS

Does Lionel bring a truck for transporting displays, etc.? That might work. I think though that they are in the middle of moving and I was thinking I didn't want my engine in that situation if I had to send it in now.

I still have to figure out how to put one of those swinging cab window wings that I found in the box along with the hinge, back in. I think I have to widen the gap on the bottom hinge just a tad to pop it in. I glued the hinge back in without the window, probably a mistake, but I didn't want to take a chance of getting any glue in the hinge area freezing the window. It's really tiny work.

Does your smoke unit reliably fail? Mine started working after a couple dozen tries.

Here is the text of the email I received from Phil this morning:

 

Jim,

 

Mike has asked that I help you with this.

 

Yes, please bring to York, we will make you an RA (Return Authorization) to get them repaired. We will have to bring them back to Ohio and ship them to you once repaired.

 

 

Thank you,

 

Phil Hull

Senior Customer Service Manager

Lionel LLC

6655 Seville Drive

Canfield, OH 44406

(586) 949-4100 ext. 2

(330) 286-4146 fax

talktous@lionel.com

www.lionel.com

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