Lionel Fastrack Vs. Gargraves Track

If you are looking for closest to the prototype, it's hard to beat Atlas.  Yes, you have to provide your own roadbed and ballast, but it will look MUCH better than Fastrack.  Consider Fastrack's rail profile--have you aver seen rail that is an inverted U (at least in this century)?  Atlas will be quieter, too.  Gargraves is more prototypical than Fastrack, but it still has a rounded railhead and is still hollow.

But consider your use:  floor layout or on benchwork?  Temporary layout or permanent?  How close to the prototype is close enough?  Fastrack is good for temporary and/or floor layouts, and, like it's name implies, it's fast to set up.  Gargraves requires bending and fastening down.  Atlas is sectional but needs a solid roadbed, and it doesn't like to be taken apart and put back together often (hard on the joiners, and the rails can be pulled from the ties).  Plain, old tubular is sort of the halfway between Atlas and Fastrack with some of the advantages and disadvantages of both.  (Caveat:  I have no experience with MTH track, so I have not commented on it.)

Let your use help determine which track to use along with your preference for how close to the prototype you want it to be.

You can get Gargraves made with wooden ties, it might be a special order though, you may have to call Gargraves. Gargraves switches don't work with all types of engines especially MTH steam engines. Another thing to consider is that Gargraves and Ross curve diameters are slightly different even in 042 size with Gargraves being closer to 043 then 042.

Ross Custom Switches are the best quality switch on the market, more dependable then any current Lionel switch made today. True Ross switches cost more then Gargraves but if you want a quality product you have to pay more.

FYI; I started using Gargraves switches about 7 or 8 years ago because Lionel O gauge switches(6-23010 & 23011) were disasters waiting to happen. After a couple of years I bought an MTH steam engine and it derailed on the Gargraves 042 switches, so I bought 4 Ross Custom switches in 042 and I am very satisfied with the Ross switches.

Lee Fritz

Allan Martinez posted:

Hello Fellow Railroaders, 

This is Allan coming to you again with another problem I'm hoping you Folks might be able to help me with this one. I seem to be stuck on the fact  that even though Lionel Fastrack is the closest prototypically to the real thing I have to say there seems to be a few small problems with the Fastrack I think you might agree with me. 

I think most people here would say Fastrack is the furthest thing from prototypical

For starters now this is just my opinion, but I  think the Fastrack line isn't exactly 3D. Let me explain from what I've read in books and seen on YouTube the plastic shell is wider than a typical railroad track and when your using 072 & 084 you tend to lose a little room in the curves because of the width of the tracks. Not so with the GarGraves.

It isn't the width of the track as much as the fact that Lionel sells it in specific diameters which forces you to a 6" center to center spacing

The reason I said that the Fastrack isn't exactly 3D if you look at a real set of tracks you will notice the true size of the railroad ties. Plus you can see the spikes and the plates that hold the tracks together like The Gargraves Track and Ross Switches. If there is a downside to the Gargraves Track it would be the plastic ties instead of using wooden ties.

Gargraves also sells track with wooden ties as does Ross.

If there is anything else that can be compared to both the Fastrack and The Gargraves Tracks Please let me know. 

I think most people her would say that Atlas and MTH scaletrack are the most prototypical looking. The combination of Ross switches and Gargraves flex is probably the most popular.

Thank you for taking the time to read my questions and comments on this subject.

Sincerely 

Allan 

comments above and just my 2 cents.

palallin posted:

If you are looking for closest to the prototype, it's hard to beat Atlas.  Yes, you have to provide your own roadbed and ballast, but it will look MUCH better than Fastrack.  Consider Fastrack's rail profile--have you aver seen rail that is an inverted U (at least in this century)?  Atlas will be quieter, too.  Gargraves is more prototypical than Fastrack, but it still has a rounded railhead and is still hollow.

But consider your use:  floor layout or on benchwork?  Temporary layout or permanent?  How close to the prototype is close enough?  Fastrack is good for temporary and/or floor layouts, and, like it's name implies, it's fast to set up.  Gargraves requires bending and fastening down.  Atlas is sectional but needs a solid roadbed, and it doesn't like to be taken apart and put back together often (hard on the joiners, and the rails can be pulled from the ties).  Plain, old tubular is sort of the halfway between Atlas and Fastrack with some of the advantages and disadvantages of both.  (Caveat:  I have no experience with MTH track, so I have not commented on it.)

Let your use help determine which track to use along with your preference for how close to the prototype you want it to be.

Gargraves does not need to be bent unless you do a special curve size that is not a standard size. You can make some sections of Gargraves track flexible very easy if it has wooden ties. With plastic ties cut the tie to tie plastic piece off of the bottom and you can make it flexible as well.

Unless Atlas has produced more track and made it available to the public their track is very limited or used to be limited in quantities.

Lee Fritz

phillyreading posted:

palallin posted:

If you are looking for closest to the prototype, it's hard to beat Atlas.  Yes, you have to provide your own roadbed and ballast, but it will look MUCH better than Fastrack.  Consider Fastrack's rail profile--have you aver seen rail that is an inverted U (at least in this century)?  Atlas will be quieter, too.  Gargraves is more prototypical than Fastrack, but it still has a rounded railhead and is still hollow.

But consider your use:  floor layout or on benchwork?  Temporary layout or permanent?  How close to the prototype is close enough?  Fastrack is good for temporary and/or floor layouts, and, like it's name implies, it's fast to set up.  Gargraves requires bending and fastening down.  Atlas is sectional but needs a solid roadbed, and it doesn't like to be taken apart and put back together often (hard on the joiners, and the rails can be pulled from the ties).  Plain, old tubular is sort of the halfway between Atlas and Fastrack with some of the advantages and disadvantages of both.  (Caveat:  I have no experience with MTH track, so I have not commented on it.)

Let your use help determine which track to use along with your preference for how close to the prototype you want it to be.

Gargraves does not need to be bent unless you do a special curve size that is not a standard size. You can make some sections of Gargraves track flexible very easy if it has wooden ties. With plastic ties cut the tie to tie plastic piece off of the bottom and you can make it flexible as well.

Unless Atlas has produced more track and made it available to the public their track is very limited or used to be limited in quantities.

Lee Fritz

Why would you spend 2-3 times the cost to buy sectional track and then modify it to make it flex??

Fastrack is a great looking track but you compromise some realism for the sake of speed and ease of installation.  I chose  Fastrack because I just wanted to get my trains rolling on a reasonable looking layout.  Track like Gargraves and Atlas look awesome but require some added effort and time.  My curves leave some irregular distances between the tracks but its fine for what my intended goal was......running trains vs a museum quality layout.

I just got back to O gauge after taking down my old layout several years ago.  I used atlas track and switches on my old layout.  This time around I decided on Lionel  fastback.  This time I wanted a simple, quick track layout. 

All considered, the layout looks pretty good. It my not be prototypical, but it got me up and running, and once again enjoying O gauge railroading. 

If it were not for FasTrack Command Control switches, I would go back to Ross switches and track, Gargraves if needed. Pulling the switch out of the box and placing into the layout, programming its switch number, and then control from my Cab1 (all in less than 5 minutes and no messing with wiring except from removing automatic switch wiring from underside of switch, if you want), made FasTrack my track of choice.

There have been some threads in the past showing things some operators have done to make their Fastrack more prototypical looking. Some of the work was very impressive. One of the easiest things some did was to wash the roadbed in a bit of a darker color, and then add some ballast to the sides. Just doing these two things did great things for the appearance.

I too found Fastrack did not right until I weathered it.

BTW I did pickup some Gargraves 37" straights but I haven't used them anywhere yet.

I tried Fastrack but it gave me too many headaches. First it would tarnish quickly(even brand new Fastrack), second the electrical connections needed work every week to keep power flowing. So in the end I traded off my night mare track for an MTH engine at a train show.

I have used Gargraves track for over 8 years and now added Ross switches in the past year. For me Gargraves track and Ross switches are the perfect combination.

Atlas track looks better then Gargraves but I have not used it on a layout, I had a friend a few years ago who used Atlas track and Gargraves switches.

Lee Fritz

"You can make some sections of Gargraves track flexible very easy if it has wooden ties." 

The 36" sections of GarGraves track is indeed "flex track" and is sold as such.

"Gargraves switches don't work with all types of engines especially MTH steam engines."

I have never experienced this - and my (mostly) GG switches were installed as long as 25 years ago. Everything has gone through them (I run steam 75% of the time - including MTH, though mostly Lionel and K-line) 2-8-8-2's, Niagaras, and the like. (Many MTH steamers have poorly-mounted 2-wheel front trucks - I fix them - it's the sloppy pivot - and no more derailments.)

I have some Ross switches - a yard set - and they are great, too. Better? Dunno - both work. GG and Ross are what I like. I like the steel rails as opposed to N. silver. MTH Scaletrax (NOT Realtrax) is the best-looking. My experience with Atlas is slim, but I am not fond of it.

I also like the slim rail-head cross-section on GG/Ross rail - and I do not see them as "rounded". Hollow? Who cares - you don't see the inside. I like the pins, also.

I had gargraves switches. Purchased new in the late 90's. Not very good at all.  Their trackage was good but the switches were not. If I were going with GG, I'd swap out Ross switches for sure.

As far as Fastrack goes, it's fantastic for floor running, which is what we use it for. You also can't argue with the simplicity of the TMCC turnouts and their smooth operation. If weathered, it can look quite good in a permanent, hi-rail layout.

D500 posted:

"You can make some sections of Gargraves track flexible very easy if it has wooden ties." 

The 36" sections of GarGraves track is indeed "flex track" and is sold as such.

"Gargraves switches don't work with all types of engines especially MTH steam engines."

I have never experienced this - and my (mostly) GG switches were installed as long as 25 years ago. Everything has gone through them (I run steam 75% of the time - including MTH, though mostly Lionel and K-line) 2-8-8-2's, Niagaras, and the like. (Many MTH steamers have poorly-mounted 2-wheel front trucks - I fix them - it's the sloppy pivot - and no more derailments.)

I have some Ross switches - a yard set - and they are great, too. Better? Dunno - both work. GG and Ross are what I like. I like the steel rails as opposed to N. silver. MTH Scaletrax (NOT Realtrax) is the best-looking. My experience with Atlas is slim, but I am not fond of it.

I also like the slim rail-head cross-section on GG/Ross rail - and I do not see them as "rounded". Hollow? Who cares - you don't see the inside. I like the pins, also.

My problem has been with the MTH Reading Lines 4-8-4 T-1 steam engine, as soon as the engine gets to the Gargraves switch it picks up the front wheels and derails. Solved the issue by going to Ross Custom switches. The only drawback if there is one for Ross Custom switches is the straight track after the switch throw may need to be cut down some. 

My MTH engine won't derail going straight on the Lionel switch number 6-23010 but the switches dud out(totally fail) after a couple of months to a year.

Lee Fritz

phillyreading posted:

You can get Gargraves made with wooden ties, it might be a special order though, you may have to call Gargraves. Gargraves switches don't work with all types of engines especially MTH steam engines. Another thing to consider is that Gargraves and Ross curve diameters are slightly different even in 042 size with Gargraves being closer to 043 then 042.

Ross Custom Switches are the best quality switch on the market, more dependable then any current Lionel switch made today. True Ross switches cost more then Gargraves but if you want a quality product you have to pay more.

FYI; I started using Gargraves switches about 7 or 8 years ago because Lionel O gauge switches(6-23010 & 23011) were disasters waiting to happen. After a couple of years I bought an MTH steam engine and it derailed on the Gargraves 042 switches, so I bought 4 Ross Custom switches in 042 and I am very satisfied with the Ross switches.

Lee Fritz

Gargraves wood tie track is readily available, in fact even more so than the plastic tie track.  I hope Gargraves switches aren't too bad; I just started my new layout with all Gargraves track and switches (the switches are all about 20 years old, and they're the standard 11 degree kind).

You can make Fastrak look very prototypical but it is a lot of work to add ballast and do the weathering.The switches have worked virtually flawless for me.Had one of 25 bad out of the box.LHS exchanged it promptly.Nick

phillyreading posted:

Ross Custom Switches are the best quality switch on the market, more dependable then any current Lionel switch made today. True Ross switches cost more then Gargraves but if you want a quality product you have to pay more.

Lee Fritz

This is folklore. Ross switches are great, but buy ones that are pre-wired or you end up with lots of power problems. My experience is that Fastrack switches are flawless. I have never had a problem and they come with awesome anti-derail capabilities and even TMCC control built in.

That said, Ross has some great dimensions for prototypical operation. I have found Atlas to be every bit as good though. 

I love Fastrack for it's ease of installation. Gargraves is the least expensive. Atlas may be most prototypical. MTH Scaletrax looks great, but most dealers don't stock it making it a special order item.

George

BTW, I have all of these on my layout except Scaletrax. I found a way to mate all of them including tubular track. I may be the only one one the forum who actually had a problem with Ross, but I fixed it. Since the switch did not have springs, it would not throw completely, causing derailing. It required some tuning of the switch machine. I have also used Atlas switch machines on Ross and Gargraves switches. A lot of this is more compatible than people admit.

phillyreading posted:

I tried Fastrack but it gave me too many headaches. ..... the electrical connections needed work every week to keep power flowing. 

Lee Fritz

That's a very unusual complaint. Electrical conductivity has consistently been a strong point with Fastrack, from all reports I've ever seen.

breezinup posted:

phillyreading posted:

I tried Fastrack but it gave me too many headaches. ..... the electrical connections needed work every week to keep power flowing. 

Lee Fritz

That's a very unusual complaint. Electrical conductivity has consistently been a strong point with Fastrack, from all reports I've ever seen.

I agree. I have never heard of anything like this. I have taken this track apart and reassembled it. I have customized it in multiple ways. The design almost makes it impossible to have electrical problems.

Also, I have only experienced the tarnishing when trying to ballast the Fastrack and getting the rails wet with a misting solution.

George

BTW, I have Gargraves track with wooden ties and plastic ties. I like the wooden ties better, but they break on me occasionally. Make sure you pre-drill them (carefully) before screwing them down. Then, don't over tighten them.

rockstars1989 posted:

You can make Fastrak look very prototypical but it is a lot of work to add ballast and do the weathering.The switches have worked virtually flawless for me.Had one of 25 bad out of the box.LHS exchanged it promptly.Nick

But, it's not more work than ballasting any other track. I'm not great at ballasting period, but I have seen pictures on the forum of great results.

George

One poster seems to have a "thing" against Fastrack.  Most of us don't have those views of Fastrack.

As for looks ... the worst looking is hardly Fastrack, but certainly is MTH RealTrax.

I've operated on all kinds of track (except, honestly, MTH ScaleTrax) --- but my home layout is Atlas.  Fits the bill for everything ... looks, ease of installation/use/ durability/ electrical connectivity, etc.  My second choice would be Fastrack (reliability, ease of use, etc.) with substantial coloring and ballasting.

Gargraves and Ross are both excellent products. But Atlas provides more benefits - to me - than the others/

George S posted:

breezinup posted:

phillyreading posted:

I tried Fastrack but it gave me too many headaches. ..... the electrical connections needed work every week to keep power flowing. 

Lee Fritz

That's a very unusual complaint. Electrical conductivity has consistently been a strong point with Fastrack, from all reports I've ever seen.

I agree. I have never heard of anything like this. I have taken this track apart and reassembled it. I have customized it in multiple ways. The design almost makes it impossible to have electrical problems.

Also, I have only experienced the tarnishing when trying to ballast the Fastrack and getting the rails wet with a misting solution.

George

I bought my Fastrack new from Target store about 7 to 8 years ago and a few more pieces I bought at my local hobby shop brand new as well, also a friend gave me some Fastrack. I was not been able to overcome any issues I had with the Fastrack before I traded it off at a local train show.

I worked as an electrician's helper for a few months in southeast Fl plus I went to vocational technical school for 3 years and graduated(1500 hours) for residential & commercial electrical work. So I know to wire any type of track successfully, however Fastrack has given me more problems then any other track system I have used. I have not used any Fastrack switches as the price was too high for me at my local hobby shop($100.00 each).

Lee Fritz

phillyreading posted:

George S posted:

breezinup posted:

phillyreading posted:

I tried Fastrack but it gave me too many headaches. ..... the electrical connections needed work every week to keep power flowing. 

Lee Fritz

That's a very unusual complaint. Electrical conductivity has consistently been a strong point with Fastrack, from all reports I've ever seen.

I agree. I have never heard of anything like this. I have taken this track apart and reassembled it. I have customized it in multiple ways. The design almost makes it impossible to have electrical problems.

Also, I have only experienced the tarnishing when trying to ballast the Fastrack and getting the rails wet with a misting solution.

George

I bought my Fastrack new from Target store about 7 to 8 years ago and a few more pieces I bought at my local hobby shop brand new as well, also a friend gave me some Fastrack. I was not been able to overcome any issues I had with the Fastrack before I traded it off at a local train show.

I worked as an electrician's helper for a few months in southeast Fl plus I went to vocational technical school for 3 years and graduated(1500 hours) for residential & commercial electrical work. So I know to wire any type of track successfully, however Fastrack has given me more problems then any other track system I have used. I have not used any Fastrack switches as the price was too high for me at my local hobby shop($100.00 each).

Lee Fritz

Was the Fastrack installed on a solid base? Did you screw it down? I have seen people use small binder clips to keep the track together on carpet layouts. The track pins are very large and standard sections tie the outside rails together under the track creating a robust electrical connection.  I don't use the wire terminals under the track unless I solder to them. I use O ring crimp connectors around the metal tabs under the track. Only problem I ever had was when a track section moved or I screwed it down too tightly causing the two sections to not mate correctly.

I also found that I don't need as many wire feeds with Fastrack since the electrical connection was so solid. 

I see you are in FL. Maybe the humidity had something to do with it?

George S posted:

phillyreading posted:

George S posted:

breezinup posted:

phillyreading posted:

I tried Fastrack but it gave me too many headaches. ..... the electrical connections needed work every week to keep power flowing. 

Lee Fritz

That's a very unusual complaint. Electrical conductivity has consistently been a strong point with Fastrack, from all reports I've ever seen.

I agree. I have never heard of anything like this. I have taken this track apart and reassembled it. I have customized it in multiple ways. The design almost makes it impossible to have electrical problems.

Also, I have only experienced the tarnishing when trying to ballast the Fastrack and getting the rails wet with a misting solution.

George

I bought my Fastrack new from Target store about 7 to 8 years ago and a few more pieces I bought at my local hobby shop brand new as well, also a friend gave me some Fastrack. I was not been able to overcome any issues I had with the Fastrack before I traded it off at a local train show.

I worked as an electrician's helper for a few months in southeast Fl plus I went to vocational technical school for 3 years and graduated(1500 hours) for residential & commercial electrical work. So I know to wire any type of track successfully, however Fastrack has given me more problems then any other track system I have used. I have not used any Fastrack switches as the price was too high for me at my local hobby shop($100.00 each).

Lee Fritz

Was the Fastrack installed on a solid base? Did you screw it down? I have seen people use small binder clips to keep the track together on carpet layouts. The track pins are very large and standard sections tie the outside rails together under the track creating a robust electrical connection.  I don't use the wire terminals under the track unless I solder to them. I use O ring crimp connectors around the metal tabs under the track. Only problem I ever had was when a track section moved or I screwed it down too tightly causing the two sections to not mate correctly.

I also found that I don't need as many wire feeds with Fastrack since the electrical connection was so solid. 

The Fastrack I was using was on a carpet. I tried to do some fancy track work and use some half curves to make a sort of dog bone shape with it in a 3 ft by 9 ft area. The track didn't fit together that good or came apart after running my interurban set(two 16 inch K-Line cars) on it. Also the track got very dirty on me or oxidized very quickly and for electrical power I used two Fastrack power connection tracks with wires about half way in the track layout to both the center rail and outside rails. The set of interurban cars would slow down in the curves like the power was not going through the track properly.

All I will say is that I went back to tubular track and have no regrets!

Lee Fritz

If you are looking for prototypical track in "O" scale.  I just saw it for the first time in my life on a PROTO 48 layout.  It was AWESOME.  It was PERFECT.  The gentleman hand-laid every inch including ties (perfect scale sized) and spikes!  He special ordered the rails and cut his own scale ties.

GOD it was BEAUTIFUL!!!  Second-to-none!

As for me, Gargraves track with Ross Switches.  And Fastrack under the tree or any other quick set up.

EVERYONE has their idiosyncrasies in this hobby--EVERYONE.  I choose NOT to be crazy about scale as it pertains to track because currently no manufacturer makes perfect scale track in "O" scale to my knowledge.  Secondly, even if someone did, how many people view your layout or even operate it who every say one word about the scale or gauge of the track?  And, if they did, would you care?

"O" gauge track made by all the manufacturers is too wide for gauge.     

I've got far too many truly important things to worry about than my "O" gauge rails are too wide, and my couplers are over-sized.  BUT, do NOT bring a Union Pacific engine over to run through Marias Pass!  Hill hated Harriman.  They were bitter enemies.  I'm carrying on the feud!   

I told you that "EVERYONE has their idiosyncrasies."  I'm just plain old fashion nuts.

This is an honest question, not trying to start a war, and I'm a 3 rail guy, but how is any 3 rail track prototypical? A blackened center rail disguises it to some degree but it's still very visible. I agree with John C that we each have our sense of what looks good and is acceptable but none of our track is really prototypical IMHO.

phillyreading posted:

George S posted:

phillyreading posted:

George S posted:

breezinup posted:

phillyreading posted:

I tried Fastrack but it gave me too many headaches. ..... the electrical connections needed work every week to keep power flowing. 

Lee Fritz

That's a very unusual complaint. Electrical conductivity has consistently been a strong point with Fastrack, from all reports I've ever seen.

I agree. I have never heard of anything like this. I have taken this track apart and reassembled it. I have customized it in multiple ways. The design almost makes it impossible to have electrical problems.

Also, I have only experienced the tarnishing when trying to ballast the Fastrack and getting the rails wet with a misting solution.

George

I bought my Fastrack new from Target store about 7 to 8 years ago and a few more pieces I bought at my local hobby shop brand new as well, also a friend gave me some Fastrack. I was not been able to overcome any issues I had with the Fastrack before I traded it off at a local train show.

I worked as an electrician's helper for a few months in southeast Fl plus I went to vocational technical school for 3 years and graduated(1500 hours) for residential & commercial electrical work. So I know to wire any type of track successfully, however Fastrack has given me more problems then any other track system I have used. I have not used any Fastrack switches as the price was too high for me at my local hobby shop($100.00 each).

Lee Fritz

Was the Fastrack installed on a solid base? Did you screw it down? I have seen people use small binder clips to keep the track together on carpet layouts. The track pins are very large and standard sections tie the outside rails together under the track creating a robust electrical connection.  I don't use the wire terminals under the track unless I solder to them. I use O ring crimp connectors around the metal tabs under the track. Only problem I ever had was when a track section moved or I screwed it down too tightly causing the two sections to not mate correctly.

I also found that I don't need as many wire feeds with Fastrack since the electrical connection was so solid. 

The Fastrack I was using was on a carpet. I tried to do some fancy track work and use some half curves to make a sort of dog bone shape with it in a 3 ft by 9 ft area. The track didn't fit together that good or came apart after running my interurban set(two 16 inch K-Line cars) on it. Also the track got very dirty on me or oxidized very quickly and for electrical power I used two Fastrack power connection tracks with wires about half way in the track layout to both the center rail and outside rails. The set of interurban cars would slow down in the curves like the power was not going through the track properly.

All I will say is that I went back to tubular track and have no regrets!

Lee Fritz

 

Well, that explains your problems. First, you likely need the binder clips on carpet layouts to keep the track together long term. Also, 3 ft at your smallest dimension is not a large enough space for O36 track with plastic roadbed. Finally, folks who run the K-Line interurbans generally feel they need O42 to run them effectively. Track on carpet gets dirty fast as well.

Tubular track is a good choice. It was made for the floor. It has very solid connections too. The track profile is higher, which works better for some trains. The lock-ons are easy to work with. Also, tubular track curves are O31, which would more easily fit in your 3 ft space. Further, my opinion is that tubular track rail is more solid and durable than Fastrack making it easier to keep clean.

Fastrack has worked very well for me for ten years. I went from 4X8 to present 18X20 U shape. I have 2 scale miles of mainline and 22 switches. Joe is right on; even the outside rails aren't spaced to scale on any track kind.

Well Allen, what's your choice.

Rod Miller

If fast track is on carpet it has a tenancy to loose electrical contact.  The outer rail receptacles expand from the mating pin moving around when the heavy train  flexes the joint. The center pin does as well this as well.  

I was getting frustrated with my temporary carpet layout and searched here to find a solution. Someone had suggested to squeeze the outside rails with pliers and bend the center tab slightly towards the outside rail with the pin in it. It works, but I find myself having to do that often. 

jth877 posted:

If fast track is on carpet it has a tenancy to loose electrical contact.  The outer rail receptacles expand from the mating pin moving around when the heavy train  flexes the joint. The center pin does as well this as well.  

I was getting frustrated with my temporary carpet layout and searched here to find a solution. Someone had suggested to squeeze the outside rails with pliers and bend the center tab slightly towards the outside rail with the pin in it. It works, but I find myself having to do that often. 

Trying not to be a Fastrack apologist here, but have you tried the binder clip solution? If you search the forum, there are pictures and the binder clip size that is the perfect fit. This keeps the track tightly together. However, I suspect if your carpet is soft, you will still get flexing at the joints, which could cause some problems as you state above. I haven't had to do this on carpet and have run an MTH Allegheny on a Fastrack carpet loop without problems. So, I think it depends on the situation.

George S posted:

jth877 posted:

If fast track is on carpet it has a tenancy to loose electrical contact.  The outer rail receptacles expand from the mating pin moving around when the heavy train  flexes the joint. The center pin does as well this as well.  

I was getting frustrated with my temporary carpet layout and searched here to find a solution. Someone had suggested to squeeze the outside rails with pliers and bend the center tab slightly towards the outside rail with the pin in it. It works, but I find myself having to do that often. 

Trying not to be a Fastrack apologist here, but have you tried the binder clip solution? If you search the forum, there are pictures and the binder clip size that is the perfect fit. This keeps the track tightly together. However, I suspect if your carpet is soft, you will still get flexing at the joints, which could cause some problems as you state above. I haven't had to do this on carpet and have run an MTH Allegheny on a Fastrack carpet loop without problems. So, I think it depends on the situation.

Oh, I like the track for carpet/holiday stuff. I did do the binder clip thing, and it did help but the track still flexes and it still has the same problem just delayed a little. The carpet isn't plush but not thin either. Middle of the road I would guess. I can tell which joint it is fairly easy too. Using a PW F3 or a 783 (something that draws a lot of current) will slow down right after the problem joint.