Lionel legacy steam locomotive sound issues

Some times you just have to install a 9 vdc battery in the engine to not lose sound over some track areas and switches.

Thank you, where would I find instructions for that process ?

In the manual. For steamers, the sound and the battery are in the tender. Usually 4 screws and there's a battery clip and connector for the standard 9 v battery.

Certain switches (gargraves) and some Ross switches don't have the power running from middle to middle and require a wire .. (Jumper) it makes the sound drop .. While the battery in the tender fixes this there's some engine that don't have a battery spot. 

Thank you l'll try that.

I'm not sure that this loco was designed for O-27.  Although it might navigate the curves, they are very sharp and it may prevent the optical link between the engine and tender (on the drawbar) from reliably transmitting the infra-red "pulse" to signal a chuff.  

If this is the cause, the only solution I can think of would be to use larger curves, or turn down the chuff and live without it.  Not many modern locos are designed or rated for O-27.  The LionChief Plus Pacific and Hudson are rated for O-31 however they use a wire tether (plug and jack arrangement) instead of an optical link.  So if there is enough travel in the tether it should reliably carry the chuff signal to the tender.  Please post if you find the cause.  -Ted

Thank you, I am using 42 curves would that still negate the signal from the locomotive to the tender ?

Sorry missed the part about the switches. I'm using new tube 42 curve Lionel switches.

Another fix for smaller steamers for both the engine and tender is to run a one-wire tether between them and share the center rail power.  Does wonders for the reliability, Lionel even went to a wired tether with the new Legacy B6sb locomotive for that very reason.

Yes I thought that the tether was ancient when I got that one, but quickly realized why they did it for that short engine-tender combo.

RPMCOBRA,

   1st you have a pretty odd ball set up, the engine is really not designed for 027 Track, however it will run on it, even go thru the switches.    You will probably need a few more drops to help power your Legacy Engine constantly, even with the additional Engine Battery.  Further the Z-1000 is not the most ideal transformer to run Legacy.  I suggest if you have an old ZW or KW transformer, that you upgrade to one of them, using both the TVS and 7 Amp resettable breakers.  If you have the money a new Z4K would be ideal for running your Legacy layout.  Eventually I would invest in the 990 Legacy Base with the rechargeable Cab2, after that upgrade your Track to FasTrack, you will love the FT wireless Command Control Switches that operate via RC from the Cab2, off Track power.  Then use your 027 as an inner loop for a real 027 Conventional Train, that matches the track.  

PCRR/Dave

As usual Lionel explained the wired tether as "Better Performance" or some such. The manuals always leave you guessing as to detailed information.

Then use your 027 as an inner loop for a real 027 Conventional Train, that matches the track.  

PCRR/Dave

He is using 042 curves. Not all "027" track is 027 curves. 

Thanks for the feed back and help.

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

RPMCOBRA,

   "1st you have a pretty odd ball set up, the engine is really not designed for 027 Track, however it will run on it, even go thru the switches."  

PCRR/Dave

Dave, I think he is using 042 diameter "O27 style" track.

BobbyD posted:

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

RPMCOBRA,

   "1st you have a pretty odd ball set up, the engine is really not designed for 027 Track, however it will run on it, even go thru the switches."  

PCRR/Dave

Dave, I think he is using 042 diameter "O27 style" track.

BobbyD posted:

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

RPMCOBRA,

   "1st you have a pretty odd ball set up, the engine is really not designed for 027 Track, however it will run on it, even go thru the switches."  

PCRR/Dave

Dave, I think he is using 042 diameter "O27 style" track.

Thats a correct statment

Did the 9 volt battery and that did not change the situation (no audio) in that part of the layout . I pulled the switch out of the layout and the locomotive runs great no issues. As suggested to me by the seller for some reason the switch is causing a spike in power in that area causing the engine to recycle the audio. 

Again Thanks for all the feedback and help.

So maybe .1uF ceramic capacitors across the power from the rollers?

These things...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-pcs...2:g:ELgAAOxyk99R3Eic

Thanks for your help.

One more thought... I'm not sure what type of switches you are using.  But if they have a non-derailing feature, and get their power from the track like Lionel's O-27 switches (5121 and 5122) did, it might be that when the loco's wheels energize the switch coil, it creates a power spike or fluctuation which trips up the sound.

I assume you're running in conventional mode at a fairly low track voltage.  In my hypothesis, the added current draw from the switch coil might tax the transformer enough to drop the voltage below some arbitrary threshold, which causes the sound to cut out.

So there would be two ways to fix this: (1) run the loco in command mode with 16-18 volts on the track, preferably with the Legacy system so you can really enjoy all its great features; (2) take the switch apart and rewire it to run on accessory voltage, which should be supplied by another small transformer set to whatever voltage allows the switch to operate reliably.

Sometimes this hobby can be frustrating, and problem-solving is required.  You have a nice loco and turnouts (switches) add a significant operating dimension.  Don't be discouraged, keep trying!