Lionel Lion Chief Hudson

As far as sound, carefully check the wires to the pins on the socket/plug on the loco/tender drawbars. These tend to break under the shrink wrap. Not sure why the smoke is not working, switch is on? Broken wire at the switch? Piston stuck in the cylinder?

Thanks Chuck. Cutting shrink wrap as I speak. Will let you know what I find.   jimmyt

If you have a volt meter the best way to trouble shoot this is to use to test continuity from under the board on the solder joint of the pin to opposite end solder joint like on the fan motor, or under the connector of the heating element or at the heating element joint.  This way you test the full extent of the wiring.  Solder joint, the connector, wiring etc...  When you find an open, work your way in to see where the open is.  G

Thanks for the input.  Checked draw bar engine & tender there was no continuity between the pins I then disconnected  the speaker plug  & 1 wire off the speaker. I then checked for continuity from  draw bar  to speaker & then to coupler no broken wires. I repeated same test eng. drawbar wires 2 brown & 2 black to pcb  ( not connected to pcb) With tender connected to eng. I have found continuity  to pcb  I than checked solder joints on pcb where female plugs are Checked all wires with male plugs  All showed continuity Checked switches for smoke, chuff and remote or transformer all good. everything I thought was a factor I checked for continuity I hooked the smoke & fan unit separately fan & heating element worked. back where I started Runs, lights, coupler but no sound or smoke. I must be missing something

Do you get any sound at all? Crackle or static? Bad speaker maybe?

So after replacing the circuit board (new from Lionel?) the same problems are still there?

There is no static or crackle from speaker. I will change speaker (8ohm) just in case. When I installed the new board from Lionel. Everything remained the same  Runs, lights, rear coupler works. But no sound or smoke. Is there a wiring schematic for this engine. Or a way to test this board. Is there a way to bypass the engine, tender drawbar connection to eliminate a possible problem       I'm using a univ. remote remote.  Power source  MTH  Z4000  the new board # is 691EMGM105 Lionchief PCB/Hudson 4-6-4/6-81301

Be careful with that Z4000. 18 volts tops. Wouldn't hurt to limit the voltage to 16. Sure enough smoke fluid. It needs around 20 drops. Check the speaker like you said. Other than that I can't think of what else may be wrong.

Could you have accidentally turned the switches for sound and smoke under the cab off by accident? I realize it's not likely but who knows?

Doesn't hurt to ask  I checked switches when doing continuity test. Thanks Joe

Chuck  I'll keep the Z at 16 volts Theirs plenty of smoke fluid but unit is cold I

If you still have no smoke and the heater is cold, check with a meter if you have one, the continuity of the red plug, maybe the wire inside the wire insulation is broken, or the heater resistor is bad.