Lionel signal bridge and Z stuff trackside sensor

Looks like:

Blacks go to common

Reds go to accessory power

Blue goes to common

Bridge White goes to 1075 gray

As the train passes the 1075 , the relay closes which connects the blue to the gray thereby grounding (common) the white signal wire which turns the signal from green to red.

The wires from the bridge should be pretty straight forward. One is the green light, one is the red light, and the third wire is the common. Same on both sides. 

The controller hopefully came with instructions. I doubt that it will control both signals independently. If you want that kind of operation, you'll need a second unit. However, if it is an optical style detector, two units may not work in close proximity, because a train on either track would trigger both sets of lights. A simple relay and insulated rails may give you more of the desired effect. Or perhaps that controller is just a relay in a nice housing. 

More info please.

The instructions for the bridge shows the red and black wires going to power.  The signal turns when the white wire is connected to common.    Seems like it works like the Kline bridge.  Ret.Leo should give it a test.

As Big Boy says you will need two DZ 1075s, one for each head.  Each DZ 1075 only spans one track, so you shouldn’t have any interference from the adjacent track.

Thanks guys.....i'll keep you posted.

You may have to raise up the DZ 1075 a little to get reliable detection.  If you have a roadbed, you most likely will have to raise the 1075 at least to roadbed height.  The black and red wires on the 1075 provide power to the  1075.  The blue wire is the common relay contact.  The gray wire is the Normally Open contact.  The 1075 relay is solid state so it's not going to take much abuse.

I could never get a  DZ 1075 to work .  I believe that unit can only switch LED's  Even them I could not get it to work.  Maybe the hook up was wrong but the Lionel and MTH units on the layout work perfectly.

shorling posted:

You may have to raise up the DZ 1075 a little to get reliable detection.  If you have a roadbed, you most likely will have to raise the 1075 at least to roadbed height.  The black and red wires on the 1075 provide power to the  1075.  The blue wire is the common relay contact.  The gray wire is the Normally Open contact.  The 1075 relay is solid state so it's not going to take much abuse.

so where does the gray wire from the 1075?  The Lionel bridge has red, black and white wires.

The gray wire from the 1075 goes to the one of the white wires from the bridge.  The blue wire from the 1075 goes to common.  The black wires from both the bridge and 1075 also go to common.  The red wires from both the bridge and 1075 go to accessory power.

Try just the bridge first.  Hook up one set of wires red and black wires first.  You should see one green light illuminate.  Now touch the white wire to common (same as black wire) and the green light should go out and the red light should illuminate.

shorling posted:

Try just the bridge first.  Hook up one set of wires red and black wires first.  You should see one green light illuminate.  Now touch the white wire to common (same as black wire) and the green light should go out and the red light should illuminate.

that worked....but when i covered the sensor the red didn't change to green

Ret.Leo posted:

shorling posted:

Try just the bridge first.  Hook up one set of wires red and black wires first.  You should see one green light illuminate.  Now touch the white wire to common (same as black wire) and the green light should go out and the red light should illuminate.

that worked....but when i covered the sensor the red didn't change to green

What worked ?  What do you have hooked up ?  What is the white wire from the bridge connect too ?

shorling posted:

Ret.Leo posted:

shorling posted:

Try just the bridge first.  Hook up one set of wires red and black wires first.  You should see one green light illuminate.  Now touch the white wire to common (same as black wire) and the green light should go out and the red light should illuminate.

that worked....but when i covered the sensor the red didn't change to green

What worked ?  What do you have hooked up ?  What is the white wire from the bridge connect too ?

Hi Steve,

Thank you for your help but i'm going to get some Lionel 153s......very easy to wire.  I have about 4 on my layout already.  Thanks again.

Contact Dennis at Z-Stuff he will answer your questions.  Great guy!

Ret.Leo posted:

shorling posted:

Ret.Leo posted:

shorling posted:

Try just the bridge first.  Hook up one set of wires red and black wires first.  You should see one green light illuminate.  Now touch the white wire to common (same as black wire) and the green light should go out and the red light should illuminate.

that worked....but when i covered the sensor the red didn't change to green

What worked ?  What do you have hooked up ?  What is the white wire from the bridge connect too ?

Hi Steve,

Thank you for your help but i'm going to get some Lionel 153s......very easy to wire.  I have about 4 on my layout already.  Thanks again.

 

Sorry you are not able to get your 1075 to work.  I have a number of the 1070 and 1075 on my layout and they work great.

You signal bridge is not the standard 450 with two incandescent lamps with a single common and one wire each for red and green.  You bridge uses LEDs.  The red and black wires provide power to the bridge and the white wire is the control wire.  When you power up the bridge the green light illuminates.  When you connected the white wire to common, the green shuts off and the red illuminates.  You should try this to verify the operation of your bridge.  Your manual shows the wiring under the tubular track installation.  You will need this verification even if you use the 153s.  

Lionel also marketed a similar K-line bridge: 6-22329.  I have one of these bridges and it's still in the box since I was not happy with it's operation.  I found the circuit design to be lacking.  In one state, I can't remember which one, both LEDs were illuminated:  one much brighter than the other.  The issue was IMO the dimmer LED should have been off, not dim but the circuit design did not permit this.  The operation looked bad and I will never use that bridge.

I would recommend you simply light just the bridge to make sure you are satisfied with the operation.

FYI: Doug N is correct, Dennis is a great guy and very helpful  !!

Page 6 of the manual has the hook up - see attached

match that to the DZ-1075 - see attached

Moonman posted:

Page 6 of the manual has the hook up - see attached

match that to the DZ-1075 - see attached

 

thank you