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I am not sure if I am posting to the proper forum so please excuse me.

I am entirely new to the world of early standard gauge tinplate maintenance and have been asked to help get an original 402E fully operational.  The motors are both fully operational in stand alone mode and I understand the wiring between the pendulum reverse unit and motors. What I have not been able to clearly identify are the assembly details of the reverse unit, itself. I believe there should be a spring of some sort to keep the pendulum from freely moving from side to side as the unit is flipped back and forth. I can't see one tucked behind the pendulum and am reluctant to disassemble the unit without some form of instruction. Also, it appears to me that the entire unit is very loosely assembled allowing for lots of parts movement.

Are you able to provide specific information to assist or guide me to proper information regarding maintenance, disassembly, assembly and operation of this reverse unit.

Your assistance is truly appreciated,

Thank you, swede

 

 

 

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The 1933 Lionel parts listing shows the E-Unit as part number E402E-3:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/1933/147.pdf

Unfortunately, I have not located a breakdown of this part. I have found a picture of an assembled unit in the 1931 Replacement Parts listing.

There is a discussion here with similar units:

https://ogrforum.com/...endulum-reverse-unit

A Lionel wiring Diagram is found here:

https://ogrforum.com/...rse-unit-early-260-e

Thank you for the quick response, Bmoran4. I am familiar with the schematic you posted and have previously reviewed the post you referred me to. The pendulum unit and motor presented in that post do not appear to be the same as in the 402E as far as I can tell, and the material has not proven to be helpful to me. Perhaps I am missing something in the post. Wouldn't be the first time. 

Will remain hopeful for additional assistance.

Much thanks, swede

@rrswede posted:

As a follow up, I have never seen a photo of the 402E reverse unit on the internet.

swede

I can provide a scan of a few photos from a book that I have.  I also have a few of those units in my repair shop and I did figure out how to take it apart and reassemble it - a very annoying procedure.  Maybe I can get some good photos.

It may take me until tomorrow to get something to you.  

mlaughlinnyc, I found a couple photos courtesy of trainz on the internet and posted them here. 

On one photo, I placed an arrow to a small rivet. One end of the  "centering spring" passes over the rivet and is crimped under a small clip. At the center of the small rivet, too small for me to view, is there some small device to provide a second securing position to that end of the "centering spring" or are my eyes playing tricks on me?

Also, since you indicated you have repaired these units, do you happen to have any parts you would be willing to sell, should my friend need them? We have already purchased some parts if required and as shown in one of Jeff Kanes  photos.

Thank you for assisting

swede

 

Attachments

Images (4)
  • Lionel Standard Gauge Pendulum Reverse Interior View No. 1
  • Lionel Standard Gauge Pendulum Reverse Interior View No. 2
  • Lionel Standard Gauge Pendulum Reverse Unit Exterior View No. 1
  • PEND-5
Last edited by rrswede

Southern Crescent 2 and Tinplate Art, thank you for responding. If I was the owner, I'd lock it in forward and be done as opposed to returning it to the Rube Goldberg reverser it is. However, the owner has a different mentality and is a stickler for originality. Hopefully we will get things sorted out.

Harry and Jeff both carry the same parts. In speaking with Jeff, he indicated he had never worked on a Pendulum Reverse unit. Just sold the parts.

swede

There is a source of drawings and operational details of the pendulum reverse unit, but it's expensive.  It's Greenburg's new (2017) book on early O gauge.

IMG_5078[1] 

This book has two full pages of drawings, photos and text that show clearly how the pendulum reverse works.  I'm using it for a couple of those units I have but may stop after doing one, which I'm sure I can do with the material in the book.  The big obstacle for many is that the price is $100.  It's well worth the price for someone like myself who buys, repairs and sells prewar Lionel, both O and Standard.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_5078[1]
Last edited by mlaughlinnyc
@rrswede posted:

mlaughlinnyc, thanks. Anything I did for him other than get it operational as originally intended would have to be temporary. 

With respect to using the conventional Lionel "E" unit, can it fit without removing the locking lever?

swede

E-units were made with several different locking lever configurations.  Look at photos of those on sale on eBay and you will see most of them.  

I've never seen a 402 but it looks similar to th 42 that I'm now rewiring.  IT has room between the two motors where I could mount an e-unit instead of the reverse switch.  The main skill requirement is enough metal bending aptitude to make a bracket for it.

In any event, wire the unit to a motor and test it before getting into building the mount.

@rrswede posted:

mlaughlinnyc, I found a couple photos courtesy of trainz on the internet and posted them here.

On one photo, I placed an arrow to a small rivet. One end of the  "centering spring" passes over the rivet and is crimped under a small clip. At the center of the small rivet, too small for me to view, is there some small device to provide a second securing position to that end of the "centering spring" or are my eyes playing tricks on me?

Also, since you indicated you have repaired these units, do you happen to have any parts you would be willing to sell, should my friend need them? We have already purchased some parts if required and as shown in one of Jeff Kanes  photos.

Thank you for assisting

swede



I helped Bruce write that chapter in his book on the pendulum reverse units.  The straight spring is secured under the square plate and passes through the slot in the moveable fingers.  The rivet mentioned above has nothing to do with the spring.  The key is to center the spring so that the arms center themselves when they are pushed and released in each direction.  There is a locknut on the front of the contact board that must be removed so that the pivot screw can be loosened.  When the two haves are removed, check the contact surfaces on the contact board and the condition of the fingers on the back board.  A good cleaning is usually required.  The coil is grounded by a rocking plate above the field laminations and a contact strip connected to one side of the coil through a wafer switch to lock the reverse unit in one direction (the other side is connected to the center pickup terminal).  The ground is completed when de-energized and the magnetic attraction pulls the plate to the field when power is applied but only after the reverse sequence is actuated, opening the circuit to the pendulum coil in an effort to reduce spurious operation.  I just rebuilt two this week in O gauge 251E’s.

@Jon G posted:

I helped Bruce write that chapter in his book on the pendulum reverse units.  The straight spring is secured under the square plate and passes through the slot in the moveable fingers.  The rivet mentioned above has nothing to do with the spring.  The key is to center the spring so that the arms center themselves when they are pushed and released in each direction.  There is a locknut on the front of the contact board that must be removed so that the pivot screw can be loosened.  When the two haves are removed, check the contact surfaces on the contact board and the condition of the fingers on the back board.  A good cleaning is usually required.  The coil is grounded by a rocking plate above the field laminations and a contact strip connected to one side of the coil through a wafer switch to lock the reverse unit in one direction (the other side is connected to the center pickup terminal).  The ground is completed when de-energized and the magnetic attraction pulls the plate to the field when power is applied but only after the reverse sequence is actuated, opening the circuit to the pendulum coil in an effort to reduce spurious operation.  I just rebuilt two this week in O gauge 251E’s.

As did I Jon G..... This was a comprehensive writing, and a chore IIRC.  So many rabbit holes to explore.

Have rebuilt a lot of these in the past few years...

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