Lionel torpedo engine

Hello James,

Go to Auto Zone or Wal-mart,and get a can of CRC Electronic Contact Spray.

It is in a  Red and White Can,and has a picture of automobile plugs on the front of it.

It has a nozzle on the side of the can.Put this nozzle in,locate where the e-unit is,and give it a few shots of this spray.It should take off running again.

If this does not work,take the shell off,and look at the e-unit up close.Check to see if the drum inside the e-unit is still connected by the two plastic nubs on the side,and still rotating everytime you cycle it.if it is still rotating,spray it down some more with the electronic cleaner,and this should fix it.

If it is broken and not rotating,you will need to buy a new drum($3.00-$5.00),and either install it yourself if you are handy,or have it replaced at an authorized lionel repair center.It is not an easy fix if you are a novice,but 90% of the time,the e-unit is the culprit in a situation like you are describing.

Hope this helps.-Kenny

Thanks for the info Kenny, I notice another problem , the wheels move I thought they do not when I run my hand over them, is that a bigger problem?

Hello James,

The wheels moving is definitely NOT a problem.You want them to be moving on that type of engine.If they were not moving,the engine would be locked up.

What type of engine is this?A 238E? a 1668?

Also,if you can take the shell off,check the wires,and make sure none of them came loose.This can be a typical problem also,after a engine has sat a long time,and suddenly is began to be run again,a wire can work it's way loose and need to be soldered back on again.

One note of caution I forgot to mention,the CRC Electronic Cleaner is Highly Flammable,so wait around 5 minutes after you spray the e-unit,before you sit it  back down on the track and apply power.Other than that,it works MIRACLES  with toy trains,and has never damaged any surface I have sprayed it on or around.-Kenny

It's a 238E, thanks for that info I will get the CRC tomorrow and try it out, thanks so much Kenny I will keep you informed how everything goes. 

Thanks again Jim.

Not bad advice. But there are other things to look at along the way.

 If the hum is the Eunit, you are on track so far.

But check the contact fingers that touch the drums too. Heat from the initial strain of starting a "new break-in" on an old motor not run in years could warp one.

Be careful they are delicate from the start but can sometimes be re-bent and work fine again. Time and heat make them brittle sometime though. 

Broken fingers mean its rebuilding time. You can buy "parts kits" for them.

Prying open the frame to replace parts is the fun. But its not that hard.

 If the motor hums you need to begin with the brushes, and the commutator on the armature.

 On most motors you have a brush plate with two springs holding in the brushes(which you should check while apart)( +lube in hard to reach places too)

Some wire may be attached to the brushes also. They are "generic" in a sense. You can easily sand a bigger one to shape.

 But the Torpedo may have a drum-commutator diagonal motor. Those brushes would be on the left and right side of the motor cap. 

 If you used a lot of oil near that area, and its dirty, the issue may be a graphite dust build up in the commutator gaps from the brushes wearing.( brushes should be longer than fatter, most often). Clean the gaps. A soft brush, light pass with a toothpick, cleaner etc.

  The condition of the commutator sections should be smooth, and flat for best performance. You can "dress it" with very fine sandpaper (re-clean!) 

 I like my brush cap/commutator areas dry so I can brush them clean easily, and oil the shaft on that end very lightly.

 On the other side of the fence, some use motor oil on clean motors to help keep them clean. But if you don't keep up on your motor maintenance, I'd avoid it personally as I feel it hold dusts too well.

Thanks for the info, I will also follow your suggestions.

Thanks again, Jim