Lionel Chessie Steam Engine put back in service after 20 years in storage. The unit did not operate properly. Sounds came on, power came on, but would not move. I made sure all wire were connected. Ran the transformer up to peak volts then down again several times. Moved the engine along the tracks for a short distance. Cleaned all drivers from the carbon built up. It started once forward then stopped, but moving the transformer voltage up and down it began to run again. Once it started I let it run for several minutes around my layout. The engine will not reverse nor go into neutral as it should. It will only run forward. My guess is that the forward/reverse unit is not working and probably needs to be replaced. Other possibilities? If is it the forward/reverse unit, are spare parts available and what would it cost to buy the part and have it installed by a qualified technican?
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Do you have the E-Unit lock in forward.
Bill
No, I have alternated the switch back and forth and tried to operate it (unsuccessfully) both ways.
Motor brushes, E-unit drum or fingers. If electronic e-unit, replace. Parts are available, take it to your local repair shop if you are not comfortable doing the repair yourself.
Bill
To provide a bit more detail, the E-unit is not locked in forward when it's running at all. To make the engine run forward, I did have to disconnect the cab wire that controls the forward/reverse unit. If I reconnect the wire it will not run at all. So, the only way to make the engine run is to disconnect the wire, which of course will only let the egine run in forward. I am trying to make a cost/benefit determination whether to repair. What is a ballpark cost to repair?
Well, worst case you could fix it by installing a new E-Unit, probably around $30. Obviously, the motor runs, if you can't diagnose the E-Unit, just slap a new one in there.
After 20 years of storage, the brush holders are almost certainly gummed up. Remove the brush plate and clean the brush holders with a q-tip dipped in alcohol. Also clean the commutator plate.
If the engine still fails to run properly, the electronic e-unit may have to be replaced.
Earl
What exact model is this? Is it an electronic E-Unit or a mechanical one?
I'm not really a Pullmor/e-unit type - but I have a NYC L3 Mohawk from that era, and
so far as I know they are mechanically identical - AC open-frame motor, mechanical - not
electronic - e-unit.
My Mohawk began to do odd e-unit things - drop into neutral, etc - then magically
healed itself. (A miracle!)
Your loco's 20 years of storage (where?) can gum up the works, especially
an old-fashioned e-unit. Try tuner cleaner - but if you get it running, remember that
the best way to keep a model loco running is to just RUN it. Especially these AC
dinosaurs. I must say, however, that my Mohawk is the best running AC loco that I've
ever seen; must have good gearing.
Open it up; fiddle with it; clean it; get to know it.