Lionel Fastrack vs MTH RealTrax? Which do you prefer?

Dave, 

 

I liked Fastrack better.   Magnetraction doesn't work on the MTH track. 

I found the FT was better looking & easier to work with as well

Lionel Fastrack is better!

I only had 1 bad piece of Fastrack, whereas MTH RealTrax is so cheap that the more you fiddle faddle with your layout the greater chance they break or go bad.

I just threw out several MTH RealTrax curves that could not longer be used due to metal fatigue in the el cheapo connectors.

For Me: RealTrax for the Rail shaped Rails VS upside down U shapes, ACK.

but I actually am switching to ScaleTrax for the much closer to scale profile.

 

And, For the <I dont know How many>eth time.

Realtrax does not go together the way pinned track does. Yes, you will damage it by assembling it that way.

Hold 2 pieces at a 45°V angle with the rail tops touching. Rotate flat while pressing together. This way the copnnections don't get damaged.

Next piece, First 2 flat on Table; Hold at a 45° angle again with rail tops touching. Rotate flat while pressing together.

Continue , Last piece is hardest, Hold both ends up in a shallow V and press together.

To Remove, Reverse the process, V to split first connection, Then just lift open end up and let it separate.

 

Yes, the early Hollow rail pieces were known for bad welds. Newer track should not have this problem, Take them back if they do.

 

I ran a RealTrax Layout for 5 years, No issues other than some pieces I bought used. I also run a Christmas loop every year that gets boxed up the rest of the year. No issues from re-using the track if assembled this way.

To fix a bad weld, Run a wire end to end between the connections on that piece of track. Worked for me.

I won't get into the switches on this thread.

 

Yes, MTH should include instructions for the track !

 

Contact me for you need more info; email in profile.

Of the two, I prefer Fastrack.  I now use and vastly prefer Atlas track but you have to ballast it yourself which is a pain, for sure.

 

I still use Fastrrack remote switches - I would not consider ever using anything else.

Atlas O has a modular track system in the Industrial Rail line which has molded in road bed AND T shaped hollow rails.  It looks very much like FastTrack and has most of the same plusses and minus's, e.g. ease of assembly, cost, noise.

FasTrack switches are excellent.  Very reliable.

 

But I agree that the Atlas/Ross combo would be a more realistic approach if you're going to be using Atlas (or GarGraves) track.  I plan to go the GarGraves/Ross route when I change over my current layout.

Ross uses the same oversized wood ties that Gargraves uses.  The switches are about as good as it gets and you can rationalize the size difference because real switches often seem to have larger/heavier ties.  The FastTrack switches are well made, even the manual ones have a clever non derail feature.  The Atlas ties are deeper than Lionel's but that is less noticeable when you ballast the Atlas track.

It's Atlas, hands down for me.  I have used very little fastrack, but had no issues for what I used.  I had a LOT of MTH which gave me nothing but grief.  Maybe if I had known what Russell points out, I would have a better taste for it.  But switches were a problem also.  Russell and others helped me out with fixes on the switches, but one should not have to go through that to get a switch to work.

You should also consider what radii you prefer and will use for the curves.  Make a chart as to who makes what.  For instance, all do not make O42, O36 or O45.  Don't remember about O60 and O63, but in planning the track you want to use, it is important to know who makes what curves.

Before I went to Super O I used both FT and RT.   I had all kinds of problems with RT.   I got rid of it and went to FT.   The switches are excellent.   I use FT now on my subway system with no problems.

Fastrack all the way.  Started out with Realtrax for my Christmas layouts and by the second year I had a disaster on my hands.  Switched to Fastrack several years ago and so far all has been right with the world.

I prefer Realtrax for appearance. I also prefer the earlier solid rail for it's quietness. The current hollow rail is quite loud when compared to the older solid rail. I have had some issues with rails not aligning properly when hollow and solid are mixed. I've gotten rid of the few hollow rail I had.

Realtrax is not as "user friendly" as Fasttracks. By that I mean, a child could most likely throw some Fasttracks together, but might not be able to do the Realtracks, Dad would have to do the track work.

I had some of the "very early runs" that had the connectivity problems, I emailed MTH, sent the track back and they replaced it.

I agree that the U shaped contacts can be problematic if your not paying attention to what your doing. I just slow down a bit and have not had any issues.

I'll stick with Realtrax because I think it looks much better than Fastracks.

Perhaps get an oval of each and see what you like. Sell the other here on the buy sell forum or on the bay.

Keep us posted.

Fastrack for club layout, Fastrack for my Christmas layout, Atlas "O" for my permanent layout (37'x20')................rogerw.

My 2245 and 2353 vote for FT!  It sticks to them!

Fastrack all the way.

 

Oh and that 45 degree V angle for MTH is fine until you try to close the loops...Not for me.

 

If I built a hirail, permanent layout, where ballasting is part of the deal, scaletrax or atlas would be my choice.

 

Fastrack of course when it's weatherd it looks great plus have a light gray ballast lets you have many types of weathering .

Thank you
Adam
Fan of the Allegheny Valley Railway

Fastrack and switches are very reliable, and I'm using it on my new layout.

Atlas track looks very good, their switches are not very good.

Scaletrax also looks very good, their switches are very ordinary.

Realtrax I've had no experience with, but our friend Alex Millae on the forum has it on his wonderful layout. I would suggest asking his opinion first.

Fastrack hands down!

 

I have a loop of fastrack and a loop of realtrax which I got within a year or so of each other. After 2 years, I stopped using the realtrax because it was starting to come apart. Every year I use the fastrack as a Christmas layout, or whenever I need to test a train and my layout is in the middle of a project. The realtrax just sat in a box until I got it out today to build a layout in my classroom. Well, it was super brittle! The clips started braking, I broke two pieces of roadbed off, the power prongs are breaking, and it did not want to stay together. I actually had to take some really strong tape (clear duct tape?) that the custodians have and tape all of the track together from the bottom! I'm not sure that this stuff will come home when we have our Holiday Break. It might just end up in the dumpster. If it does come home, I may try to just give it away, but I am not sure I want to give anyone these headaches.

 

In the meantime, the fastrack has never given me any trouble. No breaks, not even an uneven rail joint, nothing.

It if wasn't for the price, my layout may have been done in fastrack, I love the stuff!

I like Realtrax, never had an issue in more than 8 years with mine and that includes Carpet Centrals around the Christmas tree. I just can't understand how a grown adult who can strip down and repair a toy train, accessory or operating car can have so much trouble using Realtrax.

 

Jerry

I personally prefer Realtrax, because if you think about it, it is MUCH more realistic than Fastrack.  It has prototypical T-shaped rails, and they even used to be solid rails.  The ties are slightly oversized, but not much.  I've always found it much easier to put together than Fastrack, until they changed to hollow rails.  My advice would be to find solid rail pieces of track at places like eBay.  Another major thing that makes Realtrax better is the cost.  Fastrack prices are outrageous!  Realtrax is usually only about 2/3 the cost of Fastrack.

Its fastrack for me. 

I use Realtrax for my around the tree Christmas tree layout.  I had a devil of a time getting it together and taking it apart until I accidentally discovered the "V" trick described by Russell above.  The "V" trick makes it easy to assemble and to take apart without damage.  MTH really needs to provide instructions with this track.   I have two switches on my Christmas layout.  They are also reliable.

 

This will be the 7th Christmas that I have used this track and I expect to use it for many more years.  I don't have any experience with Fastrack.

 

I use Atlas track with Ross switches for my home layout.   This is a very reliable combination.  I use DZ2500 switch machines for my home layout.  

 

My club's G&O garden O gauge layout uses Atlas track and switches.  This track has been outside for two years and has proven to be very reliable.  We walk on this track all of the time.  This is an advantage of solid rail Atlas track.  We don't use switch machines on the garden railroad.

 

Joe

 

 

FasTrack!

I perfer the FasTrack for my flor layout, but I will use Ross/Gargraves track on my new layout.  Mo old layout used tublar track.

  I like Realtrax, have been using it since 2002. currently using about 500 ft. of it on a large single track main rr to visually separate the main from the rest of the track.

 IT has advantages and disadvantages.

  On the plus side, it's rigid enough to step on when using it for a floor or carpet central rr. If you use the locks  MTH sells you can simply lay it on the road bed without screwing it down( makes it easy to change if you don't like it).Assembles and disassembles fairly easy (first time or two can be tough) most of mine has been assembled from a few dozen to 60-70 times over the years. Realtrax switches are mostly bullet proof (I have 30 of them) but I always put a piece of electrical tape or a piece of plastic between the 2 rails from the frog and the next section of track and a lock in these sections.  Need to transition to another type of  track get a piece of the hollow rail track and cut it in half, Gargraves and Ross will go right in, Lionel o 27 and O you need to tap the pins in the Realtrax first, Atlas and Scaletrax, easiest to put a piece of Gargraves between either of them, shim to right height.  Custom curve or straight, cut center section out of hollow Realtrax insert piece of Gargraves flex track to fit.

  Disadvantages

No flex track, Limited selection of curve diameters and switches. metal electrical connections not as robust as track, has a high rail profile and large ties 

  I have no Fasttrack so I have no opinion on it other than its looks , like Realtrax looks better.

 

  Galon Tonell   

Of the two choices, I prefer Fastrack - but Atlas beats them both because it is so much quieter.  The original Realtrax was much better than the current hollow version.  One of our local dealers no longer stocks Realtrax because the hollow versions have too many defects/returns.

See my reply in the Realtrax thread. I only type one finger at a time otherwise I would repeat my comment here. These are almost the same threads.

Hands down..........FasTrack. 

 

TEX

Steve

I have only had Fastrack and have had no problems except for a couple pieces.  The noise is a problem. I thought I could live with it, but I think after I rip this layout down in February the next layout will be planned and built with Gargraves or Atlas.  I really don't want to to have to reinvest, but it might come down to that.  I think that FT looks great and better than RT

MTH Realtrax if you live in a damp area like me as Fast track rusts.

James

Never a problem...and this has been set up for 10 years now.

 

 

 

Let's put it this way...I've paid for FasTrack, and would turn down RealTrax if it was free.

For that original Toy Train look and operation there's nothing like Lionel Tu....oh wait, what was the question again?

 

 

Four out of five shops recomended Fastrack when I started out three years ago.