Loco Couplers Lionel vs mth

No, I have found just the opposite and you can include the K-line, Weaver and Sunset 3rd Rail tinplate couplers in this as well.

I'm not saying Lionel couplers are always problem free, but on the whole, I have found the best tin plate couplers on the Lionel items I have.

Specifically, the Lionel couplers found on the scale rolling stock with the hidden coupler tab has been the standard for tinplate coupler performance.

The other issue I have found is pulling long strings of cars on with the Lionel couplers are pretty reliable, unlike the MTH couplers that have needed modifications on many of them. Usually it is an easy fix to keep them closed.

Please give is a little more information, pictures etc so we can provide you a little more assistance.

Happy New Year Johnny B!

Charlie

Johnny B, I have observed the same thing as you have.  Lionel couplers have a different geometry than the other brands.  The opening behind the movable knuckle is shallower on Lionel couplers.  The Lionels mate fairly well with old Weaver, are okay but not great with Atlas and have a really hard time with MTH.

When I get a Lionel locomotive, the first thing I do is replace the Lionel electrocouplers with either Atlas or old K-Line.  For couplers that mount with a T-bar, I prefer the Atlas couplers that fit their Erie-Built diesels.  For couplers on the new Legacy engines with screw mounts, I use 1 3/4" K-Line couplers.  I hire a machinist to mill a slot into the back of the coupler shank (for the centering sprint) like the Lionel Legacy couplers have.

Rolling stock couplers have the same issues.  Lionel trucks with the riveted sheet metal coupler mounts and hidden uncoupling tabs don't like to couple with other brands so I have none of these trucks on my railroad.  The trucks with exposed uncoupling tabs that were used in the last couple of years have geometry similar to everyone else so they work with all brands.

Bob, can I replace them with mth ekectrocouplers? They are a known quantity to me performance wise.  Never done anything like this before but I'm not happy with Lionel electrocouplers enough to give it a go.

The late William Lewis, aka Boxcar Bill, found if you removed the knuckle and removed and polished the burrs on the back it would close with little effort. Order a few dozen rivets and try it. Much less expensive than replacing the whole coupler.

MTH PS1 couplers can be used in TMCC circuits, PS2 and 3 couplers will burn out Lionel drive circuitry.

Pete

Norton, can you elaborate on what is meant by removing and polishing burrs?

Here is where the knuckle makes contact with the body. I have filed away the parting line on the coupler body and a bit on the knuckle that comes in contact with that point. Hopefully the areas where the paint has been removed is visible. I was able to salvage the rivet but its easier to grind off the head and replace it. The post war parts guys sell packages of rivets and springs for small money. Good to have spare springs as they tend to take off if you are not careful.

You may not even have to take it apart to file the coupler body. Try that first.

Pete

I've done the process that Pete illustrates, and I've been able to greatly improve both Lionel and MTH couplers.  This works with electrocouplers and the magnetic types as well.  It's really just sloppy manufacturing that causes this, not the coupler design.

Don't try to re-use the rivets, they're cheap to replace.

Lionel couplers work better/hold kadee equipped rolling stock, where MTH a engines you need a transition car.

Can you point out where you file the body and knuckle.  Are you using a Dremel or hand file?