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I didn't have to go to work today, so late last night I was able to lay down some paint on our subject piece. I left off yesterday with the pieces scuffed. everywhere I wanted paint to stick got scratched...I did not "break paint" in other words, I had no need for any type of filler primer and blending, cause the OEM finish was perfectly intact. the chassis was prepped in the same manner...I took the basic running gear off, scuffed cleaned and re-installed before painting. I feel this gives me a uniform finish, without the possibility of scratching things during re-assembly. thinking ahead I put a new set of traction tires on now before masking the drivers. the drivers are masked with 3M 1/4" fine line paper masking tape, with a small tail lap for ease of removal........Now on to paint!..I use SEM's urethane hot rod flat black, this a 3 part system used for flat black hot rods...although they call it flat black, it has a perfect satin finish. I find this product extremely durable and not affected by oils and smoke fluids. there may be some rattle can finishes that others have used that are not bothered by smoke fluids and such, but I never had any luck rattle cans not leaving some sort of funny stains. in the automotive world this would be a 4-1-1 reduction. My cocktail if you will, is 3-2-1...I simply removed one paint component and added 1 reducer component. this gives me a very nice thin mixture. thinner than you can get from a rattle can. the pieces are wiped with alcohol right before paint, removing fingerprints. 2 medium wet coats are all that's needed. sprayed at 25 psi and fairly close to the piece. I want the paint to go on wet...5 minutes between coats. you can use your favorite rattle can, but the process of prep should be one of clean, clean, and clean again...20170702_215019[1]20170702_220114[1]20170703_102513[1]20170703_102812[1]20170703_122031[1]20170703_124856[1]20170703_124939[1] 

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  • 20170702_220114[1]
  • 20170703_102513[1]
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  • 20170703_124856[1]
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the rods were removed, scuffed, the bolt heads were scuffed, new traction tires put on ,then reassembled. The drivers were masked, then everything painted at once....less chance of scratching something up trying to reassemble painted parts.......again, this is how I do it Big Jim, some folks component paint, some folks paint a rolling chassis....this way works for me....thanks for the input.

 Whatever works. I use to turn the flywheel by hand and spray with everything in place. Your method with the motor removed and something simple to push it along looks easy enough. I'm more into weathering than all out painting. I do some disassembly but look for the least evasive way without doing an entire tear down. I finally bought a roller base and spray at a crawl speed with the shell removed. I use Scalecoat 1 for this. I use this now for anything bare metal. Such as rods and driver rims. While it's running I clean the wheels with thinner and a Q tip. I just leave the traction tire in place and try to avoid getting paint near it. Then I'll switch to whatever's on hand. Scalecoat, True Color or Vallejo for weathering. Along with chalks. Lately I've been covering the boiler with flat clear with a few drops of grimy black. This seems to tone down everything. Your chassis looks really good. Nothing shiny.

 I like the idea of the automotive paint. If for nothing else for adhering to bare metal. Once you have coverage over the metal you can switch to your paint of choice. I may give the SEM a try at some point with your method of thinning.

 Could you tell us what you are using as far as spray equipment ?  Touch up gun or airbrush. Good to see another NYC fan posting.

 

Dave, I use a small Devilbiss gravity feed touch up gun....20-25 psi .....I usually batch paint several locos at once this way I make it economical for myself....the SEM kit is right around 100 bucks, but so far I painted a dozen locomotives, and I haven't even put a dent in the quart yet...my goal is to see how far this quart goes in locomotive repaints.......and yes, decaling, and weathering overtop the SEM is a breeze..When I get the decals printed up for this pacific, I will post up some before and after....thanks for asking!

might help to add to this post, as I mentioned in the other post, this loco was super greasy and oily, I picked up this unit second hand from our local lionel shop. the previous owner figured out how to fit an entire quart of oil inside this thing.....9 or 10 screws had the entire running gear out without unsoldering the first wire....made cleaning a whole lot easier......I don't normally tear out the motor...but this appliance was literally leaking when I took it out of the box.....

Last edited by harmonyards

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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