Looking for suggestions for "edging" of layout

@Craftech posted:

I thought of that Bob, but my table saw is too small for 4 x 8.  Have you used a 7 1/4 inch circular saw to cut 2" foam?

John

You could use a circ saw by clamping a straight edge to run the saw table against. I would test first and go slowly. The blade can heat up and melt the foam causing it to bind up.

Another option is the same but use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade. A little slower but easier to control. This is how I cut foam and it works well.

I must say that most of the solutions shown above look terrific!

I used 1/8 Masonite, which I cut to follow the landscape and painted with latex interior paint.  It bends easily and can be screwed in place.  You can use what are called "finishing washers", i.e. collars, with the screws to help hold it and give it a better look.  Here are some photos of my fascia.

In this shot, the straight fascia along the river is already fastened in place.  I have cut the eastern shore's fascia to follow the terrain.  I will slide it to the right and then install it.

Here is that same piece of fascia, clamped in place prior to driving the wood screws for permanent installation.

Here's a closer look at the fascia near the Stone Arch bridge.

Here is the installed fascia from another angle.

Finally,  I decided to use the fascia to hold track charts and switch machine push-buttons.

Hope this helps.

George

@RSJB18 posted:

You could use a circ saw by clamping a straight edge to run the saw table against. I would test first and go slowly. The blade can heat up and melt the foam causing it to bind up.

Another option is the same but use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade. A little slower but easier to control. This is how I cut foam and it works well.

Thanks for the tip Bob.

John

Here’s mine with Mianne Benchwork rails used for attaching controls, etc and a 3/4” moulding around perimeter. Only about 1/4” above plywood, so probably would not stop a speeding locomotive, or anything for that matter LOL:

Mine is constructed out of plywood and is about as basic as you can get, but it presents a clean, finished look. Thanks to my wife for the professional looking paint job!

For protecting the exposed edge of thin plywood check out Outwater Plastics in NJ.  They have a large selection of small "J" moldings.  Also snap on clear plastic "U" shaped trim which will follow topographical features for profile boards.

This works pretty good for foam.

@TedW posted:

This works pretty good for foam.

Nice,

I am ordering one as we speak.

Thanks,

John

Follow-up:  I asked my son-in-law to measure the height of the ceiling in my grandson's room and he said it measured 8' 6".  Great news!  I don't have to cut the foam down.  I can use any of the ideas above to edge the foam and glue it on with construction adhesive.

John