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What are you planning to solder?

For assembling LED boards for passenger car lighting, I used what WS Joe pictured.

For soldering drops for Gargraves track, I used a Weller 100/140 gun.

Both have been very effective for their purposes.

Both (actually, he recommended the Weller ES550 adjustable temp iron; not the one pictured above) were recommended years ago by Jim Barret in a soldering article.  I saved it and will post a link, if I can.

EDIT:  Can't post the link, but its title is:  Soldering Made Easy, and appeared in Run 263 April/May 2013 issue.

Last edited by Pingman

Nothing wrong with that set except you could likely use more power. I am guessing thats about 25 watts. A 45 watt pencil iron would cover most of the bigger wiring projects. One thing is look for tips that are held on with a set screw or have female threads. The ones you have can get stuck in the iron over time due to corrosion. If you can still remove them coat the threads with nickle Never Seize.

I have a fancy temperature controlled iron but continue to use my 50 year old Ungar iron. Various heaters 25-45 watt and tips can still be had for it.

Pete

Jeff, I have to recommend my go-to soldering station, the Hakko FX-888D, I'm very pleased with mine.    This is a tool that is widely used in industry, and it's for a good reason.  Precise temperature control and up to 70 watts of heat available make this a great all around soldering iron.

I’ve tried to find out where it is made, but I’m having trouble with that. I’ve generally found that when the country of origin is obscured it usually means “made in China “.
I would like to avoid that.
Maybe someone could look at a recent model and post it.
Thanks,

Alan

I have soldered for a long time, and could not believe that a tool could make such a big difference. Hakko for me and mine is about 20 years old now. Thanks to forum member, Michael, there was a 2-for-1 close-out and together we split the order for a great deal.

I ended up picking up a few extra tips that I rarely use, but I have them just in case.

Hakko FP-102

Charlie

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  • Hakko FP-102

I appreciate this thread as I've been planning on purchasing a Soldering Station for a while now, and now is the time. Keep the tips and recommendations coming.

Here is what I currently use for delicate work (No, not really). This was my Grandfather's and I would guess it to be at least 75 years old, probably older. Works great - I've even used it to repair a leaking car radiator neck when I was concerned about using a torch in that confined area. I placed a 12 inch ruler next to it so that you can see how hefty it is. The neck is about 1/2 inch in diameter.

IMG_6394

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@Pingman posted:

What are you planning to solder?

For assembling LED boards for passenger car lighting, I used what WS Joe pictured.

For soldering drops for Gargraves track, I used a Weller 100/140 gun.

Both have been very effective for their purposes.

Both (actually, he recommended the Weller ES550 adjustable temp iron; not the one pictured above) were recommended years ago by Jim Barret in a soldering article.  I saved it and will post a link, if I can.

EDIT:  Can't post the link, but its title is:  Soldering Made Easy, and appeared in Run 263 April/May issue.

I do the very same thing and the same Soldering Iron and Gun.

I think GRJ and myself bought the Hakko about the same time.  I have used mine a lot and still works fine.  I had to replace the sponge, cut a kitchen sponge into the shape of the original and it's ready to go.

I wanted a resistance soldering station, but with this last project, I think I'm done with anything that would require it.  I have a small torch if I need more heat.

I need to get some more tips for my Hakko.

Inquiring minds want to know.  What's so much "nicer" about the WES51?  I had Weller irons for years, and they served me well.  However, I still think the Hakko is a better station.  It's also way less expensive, and given the fact that it's widely used in industry, clearly up to routine soldering jobs like we do with model trains.

I especially like the fact that with a soldering tip calibrator, I can actually know the tip temperature and calibrate it.  I can also do a quick change of the wand for a different sized tip, very useful.

FWIW, I still love my Weller 100/140W gun, it's my track soldering tool and does a bang-up job for that duty.

Hakko, no better bang for the buck.  It works like a station costing 2-3 times it's price.  As said, you see it all over in the professional industry being used all day everyday.  I have had mine for 6 years and it never fails.  Great temp control, heats quickly, and available readily on Amazon.  My previous unit was a Hakko as well having been with me for 7 years.  Only reason I don't still use it is because it was lost in a house fire (fire not caused by the Hakko).

If my current Hakko stopped working tomorrow, I would still buy another one.  I have owned multiple Weller irons and won't ever again.  I am sure their more expensive ones are good, but since the Hakko works so well, I see no point.

I haven't been able to find the cheap FG-100 calibrator lately, I bought mine for $20.  I checked it's accuracy against a Fluke temperature probe and it was right on, so that's what I use to calibrate my iron.  I see other similar designed tip calibrators for fairly cheap, it's just a K-type thermocouple and a fairly simple circuit.  You probably do need a simple microprocessor for the processing, I did some K-type thermocouples years ago for aircraft engine instrumentation, and that's how I did it.  The nice part is the neat Hakko sensor that is stretched over the pegs and makes it easy to set the tip on it to measure the temperature.

The model below looks to be pretty much what the $200+ Hakko FG-101B is for a lot less money.  Like I said, measuring temperature with the thermocouple isn't rocket science, and I see no reason this can't be plenty accurate enough to do the job.  They even use the Hakko sensors.

eBay: 162627017691

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