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I just received this building and it looks great.  My only issues are:

1. The grass that they put around the building  looks like it belongs on a golf course not around an industrial building. this is not a big issue as I just remove it when i blend it into my other scenery, It is a pain though. 

2. This particular building has a lot of LEDs and therefore it is very bright.  Is there a way for me to dim the lights???

Otherwise this is another fine product from Menards.

 

 

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@breezinup  Tom, not a very scientific experiment, but quick.  I dipped this #57 bulb in Tamiya X26(brush didn’t cover well) and lit with a “full throttle” CW80 at just over 15vac.  Because I dipped after shaking the bottle, there are bubbles on bulb that look like mold growth or something, but shows no effect from the heat.

262A9436-3DF3-4097-9C2E-998F621EB562D92595A8-2681-4224-A26C-63EB60FCB4DDF208B3C6-E1AA-4ABA-BF9D-D77C2A1215AA

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Last edited by TedW

I think they are using 5v LEDs in their buildings.   Most LEDs will light at 3.3 volts or even lower.  You might try lowering the voltage, or putting a diode in the power lead to the building.   Not sure about any animation lighting effects, I guess that would be an experiment, or the animation might receive full voltage to the building.

Most paint will flake off eventually from glass. Glass should really have etch or etching paint applied so the paint can grab a non-smooth surface.  A clear (translucent paint) over top a frosted (or sanded) clear (paint or glass) will be unfrosted after. The final finish of gloss/flat is decided by the topcoat.

Cleaning the glass real well will help adhesion, and usually baking the paint with heat before full cure helps too. (power it while soft, but after any heavy flashoff of carrier which may be flamable)

   I've used testors enamel translucents with good results too. 

Ive painted lots of bulbs and no paint caught fire, even if it discolored and flaked off fast . Still, wet paint and dry paint "flame on" differently, be careful.

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