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I'm getting ready to paint the roof of my Lionel AC&W E9s black like the real ones and get rid of those white (ARGH!) details.  Want to run my plan by the forum and see if I need changes.

The Lionel paint should be cured well as it has been months since they were painted at the factory.

Using 3M vinyl trim tape I'll set up the paint lines.  Using 3M yellow automotive tape I'll extend the tape further down in order to completely cover the rest of the locomotive with paper.  Once all taping is done I'll seal the vinyl trim tape edges with Testor's dull coat and let sit for an hour.  I have a brand new can of SEM trim black for the color, first coat to provide a tack surface, with other coats to finish with a gas out time of 5-10 min between coats.  Once done remove the paper and tape ASAP.

What's your thoughts everyone?  I've got one chance to do this right, surely don't want a bleed under or a paint curl reaction.

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I’ll ask why the shot of Testor’s Dullcoat?…..personally, I don’t think that’s necessary. You shouldn’t have any issue with sealed tape lines, ….the key here is inspect, inspect, inspect, watching for the dreaded tape lifts ….I can’t see Dullcoat making a “seal” ….plus, that’s just another chemical caught up in the mix. ……I think the trick here is going to be very light scuffing & cleansing of the areas you plan on applying color. SEM trim black comes in quite a few varieties, knowing you, I’m sure you grabbed satin? ……if you’ve never sprayed the product, certainly test application methods on scrap,….this material has very good color hold out, so light wet coats are key. ….Too dry, and she’ll pebble on ya,…..too wet, and you know what’ll happen…….on your test scraps, go from one extreme to the other to learn what you can’t do!….then you can find that happy middle ground that lays a factory satin sheen,……it can be done with the SEM product line. Several of us swear by it,…

Pat

The light scuff is what I was wondering about.

I've done the same overspray procedure using the same color as the masked out section.  if there is a bleed it's the same color.  The good thing is that all surfaces are flat with no rivets, hinges etc.  Actually mates up to a slight ledge that is the removable panel to pull the engine on a real locomotive.  I had a concern about the lacquer.

The SEM is what you showed several months back - Trim Black 39143

@NHVRYGray posted:

The light scuff is what I was wondering about.

I've done the same overspray procedure using the same color as the masked out section.  if there is a bleed it's the same color.  The good thing is that all surfaces are flat with no rivets, hinges etc.  Actually mates up to a slight ledge that is the removable panel to pull the engine on a real locomotive.  I had a concern about the lacquer.

The SEM is what you showed several months back - Trim Black 39143

Remember, painting anything is hours & hours of prep for 30 seconds of spraying. ….very first thing I’d do…..wash the shells in warm soapy water, be sure all fingerprints, greases or oils are gone if you have a place to hide a scuff line, go ahead and lightly scuff that area first, ..blow off any dust, very light wipe with just the slightest damp with alcohol microfiber……allow that to stabilize, then mask away, …..finish scuffing the work area, ….very light scuffs, gray scotchbrite or red, just barely deglaze the area…..this will give your new paint a place to bite. Blow that dust off, wipe with alcohol again, allow to stabilize, ( alcohol gasses too ) inspect your work,…and spray …

Pat

See photo for before and after.

IMG_20231224_142813870

Left is stock and incorrect, right is the result of my correction (and like the prototype).

Taping worked beautiful, with no bleeds (thankfully).  Both are done now and curing in order to handle and put the windshield handrails back on and paint the windshield wipers.  I will touch up the stacks by hand as I covered them over to paint as I didn't want to get paint inside them (even though I will keep them turned off).

So much better (at least in my opinion).

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