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The initial idea was to add detail to this crude example of a 2 rail Atlantic.  Certainly, it must have been based on something built in the early part of the last century, but a search of most known American made 4-4-2's revealed it actually contains features from any number of them.  So , instead of changing numerous details so that it resembled a particular prototype, I figured reworking the drivetrain by adding a can motor would make for a nice weekend project.   That was 2 weekends ago.

Under the hood, with the old open frame DC motor removed, it was very simple to fit a floating U joint from a Legacy F unit power truck onto the existing old worm gear shaft.  Filing 2 flat surfaces onto the shaft allowed the U joint to drop right on. 

That was the last simple job.  From here on in it has been a lot of trial and error, plus a total goal change.  Fiddling with motor mount arrangements ended up proving that the simplest was the best.  The idler arm arrangement that utilized one ear of the F unit can motor mount turned out to cause more running issues than without it.  This was discovered only after I had slotted the bottom of the boiler to accommodate it.  I fashioned a fire grate bottom, just in case a firebox light was installed later.

The motor installed, before the idler arm removal

Here's where directions changed.  After putzing with motor mount design, it was found to be a smooth runner at slow speeds,  Happy with the results, I decided to 3 rail it.  First line of attack was a wiring harness, in particular, a tether between loco and tender.  A recent refit of an MTH ABA set left me with 2, 4 wire tethers, which I was able to couple together.  More on the need for 8 wires later. Here's the female ends mounted to the lower rear frame

And the outside view with both male ends ganged together.  An L bracket was added to give strength to the weakened back frame due to notching

The step plate on the front of the tender never did align with the cab floor, and since I planned on adding a hinged plate between the two, raising the step plate allowed for more open space beneath for the tether to enter the tender.  This one detail change ended up being a days work worth of desoldering the entire top of the tender and opening up the interior for future electronics installation.  A number of brass details were added and improved upon, particularly at the rear of the tender.

the last 2 evenings were spent concocting a solid mounting of a center rail pickup on the loco.  I had to lose the enormous lead weights and replace them with flat plates of zamac, to gain back some wieght and provide a higher surface for mounting the pickups.  Again, a Legacy F unit roller set served the purpose here, albeit drastically shortened to fit between the pilot wheels and drive gear.  I glued and screwed styrene stock to form an insulated mounting platform.

 

It's midnight now, and my pillow is calling.

Bruce

 

 

 

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thanks guys,

I have given very little thought on what scheme to paint the end result.  Whereas a Key, Kohs or Overland would demand a prototypical splash job, it's no holds barred when it comes to this puppy.  Because it comes close to looking like a AT&SF, A5, perhaps warbonnet themed decoration is in order?  I have the decals for that.

Bruce

Due to another upgrade, the electronics from a Proto Sound 1 steam engine needed a good home.  With a shoehorn and a bit of cursing I managed to squeeze them inside the generic brass tender.  A close call almost produced some unwanted smoke, but luckily power was quickly cut and everything survived.  Lesson learned, completely insulate ALL inside surfaces where tolerances are tight.

  I swapped the right angled steam tether for the straight affair from the diesel in hopes that a short drawbar could be kept.  Too much rigidity from the short gap was encountered so I removed one half of the cobbled together 8 wire tether.  A few wire swaps and eliminations inside the boiler ( don't need a chuff switch with PS1 ) and it was ready for a test run. 

As the kids today say, Epic FAIL!  Derailments every foot couldn't be avoided, due to light weight and torque rocking of the short driver wheelbase.  The bouncing effect would actually lift the tender front truck off the rails.  While the brass drivers were not out of round, their narrow tread and too narrow gauge constantly dropped off the railheads. 

I'll go back in and see if I can widen the gauge a bit, something I hoped to avoid.  There are set screws holding the drivers in quarter, but moving them outboard will require heating.  I can add weight to the boiler ( sheet brass construction ) and extend the drawbar, all in an attempt to stop the rocking.  As they say, back to the drawing board.

Bruce

 

 

That is an International - noted for being mechanically inadequate.  An All Nation mechanism will cure almost all your problems.  The superstructure is extremely light, but if handled carefully it might do the job.  All Nation did make HiRail drivers, but they are rare.  There just isn't much you can do to fix those drivers and that frame.

 It's beginning to look as if a quick conversion just isn't in the cards.

Bob2:  Thanks for the identity as well as confirming my suspicion that the running gear is crude.  Was International a Japanese company or part of N.J. International?

Jim: Rather than risk warping the drivers with heat, maybe using a puller is better suited to the job.  That one will have to wait until I purchase the tool.

Bob:  The tether has already been modified to prevent grief.  The next line of attack is to eliminate the spring loaded drawbar pin on the tender.  It interferes severely with the lateral movement you mention.  The light weight of both loco and tender just can't handle any restrictions here.  Otherwise, the tether enters the tender through a 3/4" square hole....plenty of swing room if the drawbar pin was removed.

Thanks for all the help, fellas.

Bruce

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