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I just received my second try at the MTH 44-Ton locomotive, so far I am unimpressed.  It appears that it has issues with the Super-Cap, and the second sample has the same issue!

After running for some time, or just letting it idle, if you cut track power it doesn't do a normal shutdown.  In no more than about a second the sound cuts off and it's dead.  For conventional it's the same story.  When you turn off power after it's had minutes to charge the caps, the sound cuts off almost immediately.

Is this really the way these run or am I getting bad samples.

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When you say "cut the track power", are you reducing the voltage to zero, or just slowing until the loco stops moving? In conventional mode, does hitting the direction button to cycle through f-n-r also cause the loco to go dead? Have you tried it in DCC mode rather than DCS?

Supposedly, this is the same board that will be in the coming(?) S gauge F-3 units, so they will likely have similar problems if there are issues with the DCS.

Bill in FtL

When I "cut power", I mean exactly that.  I turn off the track power.  I'd expect a normal PS/3 locomotive to go through the full shutdown sequence before the audio cuts off, and all the others I have do so.

I'm able to run them conventional if I don't dally on the direction button.  The biggest issue I have is even a small power interruption in command mode and they go dead and then start up in conventional mode.  This is quite annoying!

These scream for dual rollers, they should have changed the lower end to allow space for them.

Dave, when you run conventional, every other PS2 or PS/3 locomotive does a full shutdown when you kill power.  This one cuts the shutdown sequence after about one second.  Also, any small glitch in the power in command mode causes it to go dead on the tracks, then it starts up in conventional mode.  That may be OK with you, but it's not all that satisfactory to me.

I know it's a different board, that doesn't mean they had to screw it up!

John,

The shut down sequence/time is no big deal.  It might be a limitation of that board being so small.  I do not think it is an issue with the super caps but rather a limitation of the board itself.

Mine, and the substantial amount that have gone through my shop, are fine.  There are some issues on certain switches with the loss of power.  I have documented this pretty well in my review and suggested some solutions to try.  Problems like this with smaller engines are not uncommon.  On this engine in particular, it seems to be insufficient ground on certain switches, especially when using a non-derailing feature which gives even less outside rail contact.  

I assure you that mine does not stall on any layout or any switch.  I would be happy to help you with yours.

Respectfully,

Dave

Dave, I'm not planning on switching to Kadee couplers, so your solution probably won't solve my problem.  I'm actually considering the possibility of adding a slider for an extra pickup, I don't see any easy way to add a roller and keep the couplers.

I did like the idea of replacing one set of traction tires with metal wheels, but the lack of the tools to make that happen precludes that for me.  When the parts get into the pipeline, I might buy the non-powered wheelset and replace one set of powered wheels.

John,

It is an issue with the ground, not so much the pickup spacing.  This is also the reason that it wasn't offered in 2 rail.  The non drive axle was needed 100% for the outside rail connection.  I found that my non drive axle would lift ever so slightly or move too far to one side and loose ground.

I didn't check around to see if there is a tubing size out there that could be used to make metal tires.  This engine doesn't need rubber tires.  The lip that holds the tire on can easily be removed by hand.  I'll measure the tires I made and post the dimensions.

Dave

 

Same experience here. Not really an issue but just something I noticed. I also note that it starts up nearly immediately vs the typical 20 second PS3 wait in Conventional. Overall I'm very happy with mine. No issues on 0-31 switches (except operator caused issues!). I also ran it on the Tracker layout last weekend on Fastrak and Ross switches and crossovers. Ran flawlessly. My friends in the N-Scale/T-Trak club down the hall really liked seeing it pull a short train of the MTH 64' Premier 19th Century wood cars. 

David Minarik posted:

It is an issue with the ground, not so much the pickup spacing.  This is also the reason that it wasn't offered in 2 rail.  The non drive axle was needed 100% for the outside rail connection.  I found that my non drive axle would lift ever so slightly or move too far to one side and loose ground.

Dave, that may be the issue, it was going over a section of a temporary floor track and stopped nowhere near a switch, however there was a slight bump at a track joint.  Since at least one roller should have been in contact, it could well be the issue was that it lost contact with the outside tracks.  This is Fastrack, so it has four chances to make a connection, one would think it wouldn't have a problem.

David Minarik posted:
I didn't check around to see if there is a tubing size out there that could be used to make metal tires.  This engine doesn't need rubber tires.  The lip that holds the tire on can easily be removed by hand.  I'll measure the tires I made and post the dimensions.

I think successfully fixing the wheels is a long shot for most of us.  If I had a replacement wheel, I could press that on, but trying to remove the side of the tire groove is going to be pretty tricky without a lathe.  Since that's not a tool or a skill that I possess, I'm stuck with more "canned" solution.

One one point we can agree, I think this should have been made without traction tires.  It's heavy enough to do switching duties without traction tires, and I really wouldn't care if it can't pull a dozen cars up a grade, that's not what it's supposed to be used for.

Yep, I don't think MTH spent much time with the running characteristics of this unit.  Running slowly, it occasionally dies on an O72 Fastrack switch, so I'm sure it's probably got issues with other brands of track and switches.  The more troubling aspect is it dying on the track other than on a switch when it hit a small irregularity in the height.  It's the first engine to do that, and it happened in several places.

My does what you describe when turning off = cutting power. For normal turn-off it does the normal shut down it is supposed to do so I guess I don't see what the issue is. I agree that dual rollers would be better but even on my layout I only had problems because one roller surface was dinged up. Otherwise I find it well worth the wait. No layout that does switching operations should be without one!

I have the Williams 44-ton locomotive that I upgraded to TMCC with cruise & Railsounds.  It has none of the issues with track or switches that the same sized MTH has. 

FWIW Bob, I only run mine with DCS as well, but when it parks in a siding, i frequently just cut the power to the siding as I want it powered down anyway.  I have a fix I'm going to apply someday for the caps, and then I guess I'll have to try to get a pair of non-grooved wheels and replace one set to give it more continuity to the outer tracks.

I don’t expect any issues using DCS and manual GG switches. I’ll have to see what all the hoopla is about when the NY DOCK arrives someday.

I do know when MTH changed to the smaller rollers several years ago , the arms / rollers got stuck up in the pockets of my B&O GP-35 over switches.

I had to scrape away some plastic around the box allowing the arms & springs to work freely. Another MTH MEMORY blunder. I have quite a list.!

 

Last edited by SIRT

This may not apply, for what it's worth.  Original TMCC control board had two large capacitors.   Limited space, I moved the caps. off the board to a different location under the hood of a Rich Yoder  GE 44 tonner.   Top center of picture.  Smaller caps on a control board. less time. IMO.  I could be wrong and often.    

 

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