Skip to main content

As I add more building to my layout I find that the lighting is pretty poor. can these be added to brighten up the buildings ? is it as simple red hot blk ground dded inside the building ?

20 for $12 seems to good to be true on Ebay ... or is there a better option ?

 

20 x White LED Lamp Light Set 20cm Pre Wired 5mm 12V DC

Condition: brand new

Size: 5mm

Lens Color : White,Water clear

Forward Voltage (V) : DC 12V

View Angle: About 25 degree.

Luminous Intensity: 12000mcd

Wire length: 20cm

Quantity: buy it  for 20 pieces

 

 

s-l400

Attachments

Images (1)
  • s-l400
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

John is correct, the 5 meter rolls of LED's will provide tons of light for a number of buildings, and it'll be much more evenly distributed.  They're also very easy to use.  You can cut the strips on 3-LED boundaries, each 3-LED slice uses 12VDC.  You'll get 300 LED's for less than $10.  eBay: 221497114292, $4.59 with free shipping.

ww

Attachments

Images (1)
  • ww
gunrunnerjohn posted:

John is correct, the 5 meter rolls of LED's will provide tons of light for a number of buildings, and it'll be much more evenly distributed.  They're also very easy to use.  You can cut the strips on 3-LED boundaries, each 3-LED slice uses 12VDC.  You'll get 300 LED's for less than $10.  eBay: 221497114292, $4.59 with free shipping.

ww

Thanks John, Ill order now. It has a few options so I want to make sure its the correct version

type - 3528 SMD ?

warm white

non waterproof ?

Ed, how long is a road?

You have to specify what the current capacity of the 12V supply is.  Each 3-LED segment uses a maximum of 20ma, though in practice they usually use less, more like 14-15.  If you go by the rated specifications, and you have a 1 amp 12VDC supply, you can run fifty of the 3-LED segments from that supply.  That's 150 LEDs, probably enough to light a few buildings!

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Ed, how long is a road?

You have to specify what the current capacity of the 12V supply is.  Each 3-LED segment uses a maximum of 20ma, though in practice they usually use less, more like 14-15.  If you go by the rated specifications, and you have a 1 amp 12VDC supply, you can run fifty of the 3-LED segments from that supply.  That's 150 LEDs, probably enough to light a few buildings!

John, As long as it is.

The power supply I have a 12V supply and 150 lights would be more than enough for what I need, for now.

Thanks  again. You are always so very helpful...and you keep a sense of humor, even when dealing with folks like me.

Oh, I assume I don't need any diodes, capacitors or extra doodads, to make these lights light. I just attach leads, and plug in the power supply, yes?  

ed

Ok so im still new and trying to figure out the whole AC DC thing.. I gather that I need to buy something other than my Z4000 like a HO transformer that has DC output ?   What is the best transformer to buy for this ? added strip lights inside building wired to a DC transformer and the building lights itself to the Z4000 accessory output ?? Im more confused typing this

Here are pics of my two different layouts.  

The first is a Woodlands Scenics building that was unlighted.  The second is with a Radio Shack miniature lamp base with solder tabs and a 16V lamp.  The one lamp is perfect for lighting up a whole building.  Very inexpensive, too.  You can see the one bought building, but I built the Greyhound station and the facsimile of the old Lionel factory in New Jersey which shows you a lamp base at the front door.  (sorry for the overexposure) There is more than enough light in all three.

The next two are of my overhead layout, 7 1/2 inches from the ceiling.  I used simple rope LED lights, which you can get at any Home Depot or Lowes.  The lights cause striations, unintended, that happily look like city lighting when near city landscapes.  They are cheap and much more perfect than I imagined.   They light most of my 100 ft., double-tracked layout and cannot be seen from below.

I am not against the led strips, but when researching, I found that my solutions were a lot less expensive and produced more light both ways.

Jerry G.100_0651100_0652100_0653100_0654

 

Attachments

Images (4)
  • 100_0651: The bayonet light does a great job in both buildings
  • 100_0652: the light bounced off the building.  sorry.
  • 100_0653: overhead layout
  • 100_0654: the rope LED light.  I use colored ones over the bar area

I got a bunch of 1.5 amp 12v walwarts.  used.  they were from Cisco routers!  they work great.  I take the pigtail connector for the MTH Z transformer to the TIU connection.  cut the ends off and wire that to 2 bus bars.  plug the walwart to the connector.  easy and you can still sell it in tact later on.  bus bars are so easy and organized way to split your lights up. and then you keep track of how many buildings you hook up.      I usually gut the buildings light system which is a task, MTH has all those connectors from floor to floor and middle bars to hold lights.   gut all that out and  I used 6 in my 3 story buildings 3 to roof and the lower level I used 3.  use a opaque sheet spreads the light. 

 

I have read about using the PC power supplies. Unfortunately, I discarded a few old PC power supplies along with the wallwarts as well.  

I now have a number of the adjustable AC/DC to DC converters (fairly cheap on ebay) so I am back in business. However, I no longer discard walwarts or other devices that can be used for powering things.

While you guys duke it out over 12V power supplies ... another enhancement to 12V lighting are these insanely (low) priced remote controllers for 12V LED strips.  Connect the tiny controller shown on the right between your 12V DC adapter output and your 12V building lights.  Then use the RF remote on the left to turn the lights on/off, adjust brightness, even make the lights blink if you so desire! 

Less than $2 on eBay for the pair and free shipping from Asia (many sellers but for example: eBay # 111822119156).  As I recall you do need to provide the battery for the remote which is a CR2025 coin type.  If there is any interest I can provide further details.  I'll double-check if there's interest but IIRC you set-it-and-forget-it.  In other words the LED controller remembers the brightness setting between power cycles.  So once you set a suitable brightness you don't need to use the remote - when power is subsequently applied to the LED controller, it remembers the brightness setting.

s-l1600

Attachments

Images (1)
  • s-l1600
Last edited by stan2004
Porsche1662 posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

John is correct, the 5 meter rolls of LED's will provide tons of light for a number of buildings, and it'll be much more evenly distributed.  They're also very easy to use.  You can cut the strips on 3-LED boundaries, each 3-LED slice uses 12VDC.  You'll get 300 LED's for less than $10.  eBay: 221497114292, $4.59 with free shipping.

ww

Thanks John, Ill order now. It has a few options so I want to make sure its the correct version

type - 3528 SMD ?

warm white

non waterproof ?

Hi John lights came in today. Im a little confused on how to cut and power up. Any pictures you have to share on your setup ?

It has two leeds and a string of lights ? Not sure how to cut in strips and add power.

Thanks !

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_1036

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_1036

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×