MTH certified repair persons need not respond - It's repaired now.

After start up have you tried a conventional 1 whistle 3 Bell to unlock.  Or the 1 whistle 5 bell feature reset?  G

No.  My bench transformer is an old one with no bell or whistle buttons.

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Dennis

Try deleting the engine and re- adding it to your handheld. 

I use postwar ZWs on my layout and am all DCS command control so I don't know if the bell and whistle button on the those work either but I will give your first suggestion a try.  I thought this problem may be more serious than a reset so didn't think of a way to attempt it.  Thanks for the tip . . .  I'm off to the basement.

 . . . . later.

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Dennis

I did as you said and the engines (AA) did reload to my remote.  When I turned on the ZW, it did buzz louder than normal but the engine did respond to the start up, horn, and forward movement.  However there was sparking from underneath.  When I stopped it with the direction button in order to try reverse, the wheels spun at full speed but did not move, so I think all wheels weren't turning or it would have taken off down the track.

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Dennis

Dennis,

Try running the lead A by itself to make sure it runs OK.

Then place the slave A unit on by itself and apply voltage slowly to see if it moves. If it moves, the slave board is the problem. The slave A shouldn't run without the lead A unit.

If both seems to be OK, check the tether.

I think I have located the problem.  I observed the sparks coming from the front truck, rear wheel of the lead "A" unit.  It is a poor quality wiring problem for the front truck.  The wires that come through the hole in the floor are not wrapped together and have been rubbing on the right rear wheel.  They are now frayed.

See photo.  I put a pencil in just to pry up the truck so you can see the wires better.  I am not sure how to get in there to repair the wires.  Perhaps they are exposed OK if I just remove the shell?

I would send it back to MTH for them to fix under warranty, now that you know the problem.   Why risk making things worse by trying to remove the shell?

Sending in for warranty repair is the best alternative since this is brand new.

Otherwise, yes, take shell off and then remove the connector lead by undoing the screw to make the repair with heat shrink.  How hard or easy really depends on the internal interference to get to the lead.

If your bold, that is the time to ensure the harness are properly routed, no black screws that have interferred with DCS signal, etc...  G

You done good to fix it yourself and avoid the risk of shipping damage. It's unfortunate to have a road failure on a new loco.

I agree, GGG and Ace.  The quality of assembly sure was lacking here.  I can't imagine what assembly routine would have those wires sticking down so close to the wheel flange.  There is plenty of room for them to be up inside farther.  I also noticed while reassembling my train that you have to be darn careful that the tethers are not rubbing on a wheel flange too.  I am glad also that I have wide curves because those tethers are really stiff and restrict easy swing of the trucks.

 I like the set though.  It's a beauty to my eye.

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Dennis