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HI Guys, I'm new to this site but have been working on collecting 3-rail train stuff for awhile. I just pulled out my MTH Railking Diesel F40PH this afternoon(Got it used) set it on the test track (8'). The proto sound started up great! Waited about 1 minute and started throttling it up. Never moved. It popped and a bunch of smoke poured out. 

I took it off the track and removed the shell to find a blown capacitor. Any idea what i did wrong?

I'm gonna try to replace it. Anyone had any luck doing this?

Last edited by AdamG
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Hi Marty,

Hope this helps.....I ordered another capacitor(WinCap 105GP 330UF 35V)....Should be here Monday so i'll try and solder it in but even if it does work i just want to make sure i'm not missing something. I'm sure this loco has been sitting for quite some time but when i put it on the track all lights came on and the proto sound started and sounded great. As soon as i gave it throttle it popped and smoked.

MTH- F40PH part#20-2714-1 Diesel Locomotive CSX 9993 CSX Blown Cap. 01CSX Blown Cap. 02CSX Blown Cap. 03CSX Blown Cap. 04

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  • CSX Blown Cap. 01
  • CSX Blown Cap. 02
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  • CSX Blown Cap. 04

Adam, hopefully the cap you receive is new stock and the WinCap company is doing a better job at building capacitors. They are the only brand I've had to replace. Before going through the trouble of soldering in the new cap, you can test the board using short mini alligator clip test leads, that have the rubber boots over the clips, and jump off the post from the old cap. Watch your polarity. The post closest to the edge of the board is ground and the ground post of the new cap will be marked.

0816171506

 

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  • 0816171506
Last edited by Dave Zucal

Thanks for the picture Dave, great idea. This way i can see if it works before going thru all the effort of soldering it in on such a small board. I'll let you know how it works tomorrow night. I've also got 3 of the "Green" replacement batteries coming just in case that's a cause.

Thank you guys. Nothing more i can do with this loco at the moment so i guess i'll lay some more track.

Hard lesson to learn, but if you had the cap why not just solder it in and test it right with board attached.  Same goes for guys that test smoke unit while holding it only to drop it and short the fan motor leads to the chassis and take out the board.

My point was you could test board with out cap.  If it powered up replace cap and then test. 

At least you have spare parts for other engines now G

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