#1 looking up the product number, it's a 22 year old model some of the first PS2 ever made https://mthtrains.com/20-2235-1. That makes it PS2 5V and hopefully since you say it ran has a battery replaced in it.

#2 The first thing, after any bad accident, is take the shell off and inspect. You think it had a derailment short but being PS2 5V it may have suffered a capacitor failure, gone dead short until that burned something else up. Hence why it's dead now.

Or send it to an MH tech.

Using a ZW and not mentioning breakers or fuses, wonder what we are going to see inside????!!!!

Also you didn't mention a DCS TIU in play, but are able to run other engines. Just saying, if this was killed by voltage spikes from a derailed car sparking- that goes both ways to the engine and the TIU and could damage both.

Unfortunately it sounds like the PS2 board went Kaput. The voltage spikes from the derailment is what did it in. There is usually no way to repair. PS-2 boards are long obsolete. You will need to find a donor engine with the PS2 3volt system or have it upgraded to PS3.

Or repaired with PS-32 board.  G

@Sams Trains....

Sounds like you're in need of a fast acting magnetic circuit breaker. They are a bit pricey but WELL worth the money. I use 4; one for each Power district and they have saved my bacon several times. Look for this type of circuit breaker PR11-0-10.0A-XX-V. It's a SNAPAK magnetic circuit breaker. Again....absolutely fantastic breaker.

This code translated is:

PR = Push Reset (other configurations available but may be hard to find)

1 = Single pole

1 = Series hook up

0 = Immediate trip; no delay

10.0A = 10 Amp (different amperage available)

XX = No label

V = VDE = VDE approved

@Junior posted:

@Sams Trains....

Sounds like you're in need of a fast acting magnetic circuit breaker. They are a bit pricey but WELL worth the money. I use 4; one for each Power district and they have saved my bacon several times. Look for this type of circuit breaker PR11-0-10.0A-XX-V. It's a SNAPAK magnetic circuit breaker. Again....absolutely fantastic breaker.

This code translated is:

PR = Push Reset (other configurations available but may be hard to find)

1 = Single pole

1 = Series hook up

0 = Immediate trip; no delay

10.0A = 10 Amp (different amperage available)

XX = No label

V = VDE = VDE approved

Do you have a pic of the breaker installed??

George is right, the express repair is the PS32 board with the 5V connectors, it's a 90% Plug-N-Play.  Drop the board in, replace the speaker with a 4 ohm one, and you're good.  There's a small amount of mechanical work to mount the different board shape.  Occasionally, you will have to fiddle with the wiring harness to make them reach the connectors.

Hey @Jeff T....

Here's a front pic....

They're right in between the Volt and Amp meters. I must warn you they can be pretty sensitive. I've had them trip (not from shorts or sparks, but from power draw) when I'd be running a dual AC Pullmor equip engine with 6 or 7 lighted passenger cars (pre @gunrunnerjohn's conversion kits) that would happen to share a power district with another train.

But never had an issue with multiple trains that used multi-DC can motor engines that a happened to share a power district.

BTW....I did go with 10A breakers.

Hope this helps.

The circuit breakers in the postwar transformers are too slow acting to protect modern circuit boards. Get a modern transformer either MTH or Lionel. Use the ZW for lights and accessories.

@triplex posted:

The circuit breakers in the postwar transformers are too slow acting to protect modern circuit boards. Get a modern transformer either MTH or Lionel. Use the ZW for lights and accessories.

And what would you recommend??

Hey @Jeff T.....

I know you're not asking me (at least I don't thank you are ) but @triplex' option is certainly a viable option. It all depends on how you plan on using the PW ZW (I assume it's PW).

As far as MTH vs Lionel for replacement Power supplies; I can't speak to MTH but I've read nothing but great things about Lionel and the PW180 power supply. The circuit breaker is supposed to be top notch and really fast.

I also took a peek at where/when I purchased the SNAPAK breakers. After looking I remembered many sources sell them in 3 packs because they're items that are not typically kept in stock.

@triplex posted:

The circuit breakers in the postwar transformers are too slow acting to protect modern circuit boards. Get a modern transformer either MTH or Lionel. Use the ZW for lights and accessories.

Many options with TVS diodes, fast acting airpax breakers, etc,….yes, the stock PW thermal breakers are way too slow, but older transformers can be made useful for modern usage with out ever having to open one up…….

Pat

@Junior posted:

Hey @Jeff T.....

I also took a peek at where/when I purchased the SNAPAK breakers. After looking I remembered many sources sell them in 3 packs because they're items that are not typically kept in stock.

Do you have a source you would share. I need one...

@Jeff T....

I purchased mine from DigiKey, but they sell them in packs of 3 only (I needed 4).

However, I've seem them sold individually by Mouser and Allied Electronics and a few others. Note...the reset button itself may be different but works the same (for example, I've seen these offered as a rock switch instead of a pop-up button).

Just run an internet search for "snapak pr11-0-10.0A-XX-V" and confirm the configuration returned. Some sites return a "similar" product that may not be what you want.

@Jeff T posted:

Do you have a pic of the breaker installed??

@Junior posted:

@Sams Trains....

Sounds like you're in need of a fast acting magnetic circuit breaker. They are a bit pricey but WELL worth the money. I use 4; one for each Power district and they have saved my bacon several times. Look for this type of circuit breaker PR11-0-10.0A-XX-V. It's a SNAPAK magnetic circuit breaker. Again....absolutely fantastic breaker.

This code translated is:

PR = Push Reset (other configurations available but may be hard to find)

1 = Single pole

1 = Series hook up

0 = Immediate trip; no delay

10.0A = 10 Amp (different amperage available)

XX = No label

V = VDE = VDE approved

Hey Junior, there are two "Sams Trains" on here, OP's username has a ' in Sam's, mine doesn't. You'll want to edit that to tag the OP

Oops! Sorry....must've fat fingered it! My apologies!

@Junior posted:

Oops! Sorry....must've fat fingered it! My apologies!

Not a problem! Good luck to y'all with the fix

It sounds like the power spike put the Kebosh on your locomotive. I had a ZW with a fast acting fuse and it was ok. But then I spoke with a wise man on this forum and he convinced me to switch to an MTH z4000. I haven’t looked back since. If you are going to spend a lot of your time and hard earned money. Best to spend it wisely. Good luck!!!

@triplex posted:

The circuit breakers in the postwar transformers are too slow acting to protect modern circuit boards. Get a modern transformer either MTH or Lionel. Use the ZW for lights and accessories.

Amen

@GGG posted:

Or repaired with PS-32 board.  G

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

George is right, the express repair is the PS32 board with the 5V connectors, it's a 90% Plug-N-Play.  Drop the board in, replace the speaker with a 4 ohm one, and you're good.  There's a small amount of mechanical work to mount the different board shape.  Occasionally, you will have to fiddle with the wiring harness to make them reach the connectors.

What is the source and part number for this, and are they available?

Before posting here, I did multiple searches within OGR and on Google - found lots of posts and pictures, but nothing that led to a source. Not sure, but I suspect it's a situation where a shorthand name is being used that doesn't match how the part is cataloged.  Thanks.

Actually, the PS32 boards are currently out of stock at MTH, but the expectation is that they will be available at some point.

They've offered a ton of variations, all are just what files are loaded into them.  IMO it's actually made the situation much more confusing for us and them, but that's another story.

3V Replacement

5V Replacement