MTH Loco w/PS 2 Malfunctioning?

Sounds like a reset is in order. Do you have a Z-4000 or access to one? That makes the reset fast easy.

If you do have a Z4000, as Paul said, do the reset. It is possible, while trying other commands, you locked it in the forward position, which is possible.

Try hitting the horn/whistle button once and then the bell button 3 times.

Thanks men for the very rapid replys.

Three years ago, when I showed my son the button sequences to make the loco do different things he was very excited about it and probably over did it.  I know he likes to activate the uncoupler alot.  I came home from work one day and the loco was locked in forward.  So no idea how it happened.

I don't have a Z4000 transformer.  Only the Z1000 that came with the set.

I will try Gerry's suggestion and if that doesn't work, sounds like I need to go to the dealer.  They have a layout with the Z4000.  Just involves an hour drive each way that I was hoping to avoid.  Sounds like the dealer shouldn't charge me a lot to just do a reset.  I had fears that I am looking at a big repair bill.

Thanks again.

Hitting the horn/whistle button once and the bell button 3 times will let you lock it in forward or backwards. You repeat it to unlock it. The engine, I believe, has to be moving slowly in the direction you want to go to lock it. I'm not sure if it needs to be moving to unlock it. You might want to check the operators manual if you still have it or look at a PS 2.0 manual on the MTH site. I think they all operate the same.

I, too am having a concern with my MTH Union Pacific SD70ACe Diesel from RTR Set # 30-4214-1.

I didn't notice it right away out of the box but after 2 or 3 days it started to "shudder" intermittently when starting to crawl from a stop.

It doesn't matter if it's pulling cars or not and as the speed increases it goes away.

Wonder if anyone else has seen this?

I have one it runs good after 2 mph        I, too am having a concern with my MTH Union Pacific SD70ACe Diesel from RTR Set # 30-4214-1

In order to unlock a loco, it must have less than 10 volts, hit the whistle button once and the bell button three times, stop the loco, it should move to neutral, then to forward, as originally done. Keep us posted. The Z1000 should work for this maneuver. 

I didn't see anyone mention it, but when using the transformer buttons to send commands to an engine the timing between the hits is critical, as I recall.  I don't have a manual in front of me but I seem to recall that you do the 'hits' 1/2 second apart.

Someone might know.

- walt

Well, the problem was "operator error" and I don't mean my son.  I should have read the manual more closely.  The manual does describe how to lock/unlock engine in either forward or reverse direction and I just missed it.  I too quickly assumed the engine was doing something it shouldn't and focused on the "troubleshooting" part of the manual.

Going by Gerry's recommendations and the manual I was able to unlock it with minutes.

Walt is correct, activating features by using the buttons is a very tricky affair due to sensitivity to timing of sending signals.  This motivates me to go to DCS.

After unlocking the direction, my son miss-keyed the buttons to fire the coupler and locked it into forward again.  I did notice that the engine must be in a very slow crawl to lock/unlock.  Even by doing this, one must still be careful with timing of hitting the buttons.  I started saying to myself "one missi" instead of "one mississippi" to get the 1/2 second timing right.

Thanks to all for all your quick and very helpful advice.

My son is so thrilled at running his train again.

Happy Holidays!

Bob

PRR #1:

While I love DCS, it is a pricey step for some. I would offer a lower price option:

The DCS Remote Commander.  I now have one for my Christmas Tree loop.

MSRP <$50

Limitations: 

Runs only 1 engine per control system / Track loop.

Runs only PS2 or PS3 engines that are Factory Reset, IE Have Not been run with DCS unless reset afterward.

Remote must be pointed at the Receiver to work. (It's infrared, not RF)

Limited controls but they are the most used ones:

Throttle in 1 SMPH steps (Grey Rocker marked + and -)

Bell (Yellow button)

Sound on / off (Blue)

Startup / Shutdown sequence including the sounds (Blue)

PFA ( Passenger or Freight sound sequence depending on engine, See below))

Whistle (White)

Fire Coupler front or rear w sounds (Blue button then + for front - for back)

Volume up or down to off but not many steps. (Blue button then use speed rocker  + or -)

Direction button (RED)

Note; PFA works as follows:

Wait 15 - 30 seconds for each step to play out;

Press PFA at a low speed, Bell will start ringing and other sounds may play.

Press Red Dir button, engine will stop and sounds will play.

Press Red Dir button, engine sounds will play. -REPEAT SEVERAL TIMES-

Press Red Dir button, engine will start and accel to speed it was running prior to PFA button pressed, bell will ring and sounds MAY play.

Press Red Dir button, engine will continue at same speed, Bell will stop, you are now back in normal DCS command mode.

PS PFA works the same on a Full DCS system

PPS I have one engine where the PFA sequence is actually a Flag Stop out on the main line. I Like that one.

The DCS Commander is another option.  I just snagged one in the for-sale forum for $65 shipped.  I'm using it for my repair bench so I don't have to carry a TIU over and connect it up.  It's a full DCS system and will allow you do do other functions that the DCS Remote Commander doesn't support.

John,

It's a full DCS system

While it's a good buy at $65, it's not a "full DCS system". It only allows 10 (maybe 15, I forget) engines, no TMCC or Legacy engines, does not allow lashups, and lacks several more features of a DCS TIU and remote combination.

Further, it's only one channel, is DC only and can support a maximum of 6 amps.

I did know about the engine and power limitation, since it's for my test bench, that didn't seem to be an issue.  I have an old CAB1/base as well, so TMCC isn't an issue either. 

Your point is well taken, it's not the "full" DCS system, just more full than the DCS Remote Commander.  Having TMCC on the same track is a non-starter, as it outputs DC, that is true.  That is did forget about.   Again, not a consideration for my use, but an excellent point in general.

That's probably normal.  Under 3 SMPH mine gets a little choppy - 3 seems to be the break point because everything over that is smooth a silk.  Also, I don't know how much you have run yours but mine required a run-in period.  I also added a little grease, which you may or may not need, but after running it in it got a lot smoother.