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I would think the 2 transistors that fire the relays. 2N5087

That said, again, I find that having known good boards and swapping, and then attempting repairs to fix a broken board is quicker and better IMO than using the "parts cannon"  method.

PROTOSOUND 1 STEAM ELECTRONICS

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Another topic https://ogrforum.com/...only-runs-in-reverse

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I like to thank everyone for their support and suggestions. I see from the parts lists I could be experiencing a $150.00 expense if both boards are bad. I do not know how to test the resistors etc. I do have a multimeter, can this be used? additionally should I try the reset chip would this hurt anything.

I run this train with a conventional Lionel ZW. Can this fry the boards?

Lastly, due to the age of this technology is it worth the expense of fixing?

I like to thank everyone for their support and suggestions. I see from the parts lists I could be experiencing a $150.00 expense if both boards are bad. I do not know how to test the resistors etc. I do have a multimeter, can this be used? additionally should I try the reset chip would this hurt anything. While a Multimeter can be used for some testing, being honest, if that's not your thing, this is not ideal to learn repairing this board. A reset chip kit is a good thing to have on hand if you have multiple PS1 engines. If this is your only PS1 engine and you can say you'll never buy another PS1 engine (really, at a show or meet and not a good deal??) then that kind of reduces the need.

I run this train with a conventional Lionel ZW. Can this fry the boards? Yes and no. No, generally it's not outputting a voltage that is somehow incompatible. Yes, because an original ZW has a massive common circuit breaker, that is meant to protect the transformer, not your trains or wiring in the case of a derailment short. Again, no, in this case, unlikely the ZW directly caused this failure. That said, long term, if you have other engines and electronics- smart to invest in breakers and TVS (Transient Voltage Suppressors). I'm returning a repaired engine to a customer today who melted the internal wiring from just such a derailment short clearly by a transformer who's breaker never kicked in.

Lastly, due to the age of this technology is it worth the expense of fixing? This sounds like a lower board problem, but honestly could be anything one or both boards. Many repair techs and those who have larger collections tend to end up with used but good takeout PS1 boards from upgrades. So yes, I showed you new from MTH pricing that is valid for you a customer off the street. Taking your engine to a qualified repair tech or shop, or shopping around at shows and online for used boards is another option.

Does a conventional transformer Zw hurt the newer digital equipment?

Again, in and of itself, the ZW is just a power source. It has a high capacity for current, and absolutely limited circuit breaker safety on the outputs and no modern voltage spike protection from inductive kicks.

But again, natively, it's not the biggest problem- "the problem" is looking at your total end to end "system" of power source, wiring, track, end devices such as trains and accessories, and last- complete lack of current and voltage protection devices with ratings for "modern digital electronics".

Discussed in many topics https://ogrforum.com/...postwar-transformers

Credit to @CAPPilot for this diagram

Last edited by Vernon Barry

Vernon - I live in Delaware do you know of a tech that could provide this upgrade to the Zw?

Thanks for taking the time to explain this.

Richard

Those are all external devices that simply go in series or in parallel- hopefully you can "self install" them between the transformer- and your track and wiring - and somewhat regardless of transformer make or model.

Fuses/Breakers go in series to protect against current (Amps)

TVS goes in parallel to shunt (short out intentionally) high voltage spikes

Those are all external devices that simply go in series or in parallel- hopefully you can "self install" them between the transformer- and your track and wiring - and somewhat regardless of transformer make or model.

Fuses/Breakers go in series to protect against current (Amps)

TVS goes in parallel to shunt (short out intentionally) high voltage spikes

Vernon, I like this suggestion and I’m going to add the TVS and fuse breakers. I have on my layout two lock on‘s for each loop to improve current flow. Would I need to add a TVS on each lock on or just one per loop?

Would I only need to install one fuse on each hot side of the transformer?

Thank you

Richard

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