I have an MTH gate that will not lift. The lights are flashing but no gate movement when prompted. Any suggestions? If it is dead, does anyone have a single used gate for sale as I have the mate and it works fine.
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To be clear, you have BOTH gates attached together (both White wires and both Yellow wires attached together to an ITAD).
The "good" gate goes up and down. The "bad" gate is stuck in down with the lights always flashing even when the "good" gate goes up and stops flashing?
Miguelito,
Go inside the base of the gates and see if the rubber gear is moving around freely. If so, use a drop of super glue to seal it in place. That was the problem with one of my gates. Best Wishes.
I have taken the gate apart and see that the vertical screw post turns freely in the direction to lower the gate but does not rotate in the opposite direction when signaled by the white to blue wires.
ya, too bad a company can't seem to build a smaller "0-scale-sized" model of like the #6-2162 where the gates are lowered/ raised by a simple solenoid. I'd be down with that
Penn-Pacific posted:ya, too bad a company can't seem to build a smaller "0-scale-sized" model of like the #6-2162 where the gates are lowered/ raised by a simple solenoid. I'd be down with that
Yah, but who wants to see gate arms slamming up and down, toy like?
I have a pair of NJI gates working simultaneously to a Tortoise motor controlled by Azatrax crossing detector.
Well, I gave up and ordered a new set of MTH gates. Guess I'll have a spare now. I also ordered a Z stuff DZ1008 to control the gates with an insulated series of track. New question: should I power the DZ1008 with a separate power source than my Lionel 180 brick which powers my DCS system? I'm thinking that the fixed voltage of the 180 is too much for the DZ (which recommends 12-14VAC). Is my thinking correct? I'd appreciate advice for the more experienced. Thanks.
Bought used gates and used an old Lionel transformer set at 13 VAC with the DZ1008 and all is working fine. Amen
I have a set of the gates..... installed them after testing one of the gates. Turns out that the OTHER gate starts flashing after power is connected (red/black connected to 14v AC). It will not stop blinking, nor will it move the gate (no motor noise) when a connection is made between the gate common and the NO or NC wire. I'm assuming it's dead.
(( LESSON LEARNED: TEST ALL THE PIECES BEFORE INSTALLATION! ))
I have two sets installed on my layout. They are junk, as mentioned.
OK, I know this is inadequate reply, but these gates have external adjustment screws. Maybe on the base, I can’t remember. Search the blog and you will find the adjustment info. I fixed mine by tweeting a screw.
See this thread. These two photos from linked thread should tell you what you need to know. It depends on how willing/able you are to perform some DIY troubleshooting. It helps to be able to "read" a schematic, but don't want to insult your intelligence!
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Stan, where did you get that nice diagram?
Part of the problem is the motor drive assembly, base of unit, has a plastic gear pressed on the motor drive shaft. Eventually fails, even with very good adjustment. IMO, Mike CT.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Stan, where did you get that nice diagram?
You have to wade thru the linked thread from my previous post but member Ponz sent me his broken units. I opened it up and I drew the diagram (schematic) for the circuit board and attendant wiring.
Mike CT posted:Part of the problem is the motor drive assembly, base of unit, has a plastic gear pressed on the motor drive shaft. Eventually fails, even with very good adjustment. IMO, Mike CT.
Right. Photo shows cracked plastic gear on the units Ponz sent me to study. So the motor spins freely slipping on the gear. As mentioned in other thread, you can replace this with a metal gear. While Scottv may also have this problem, since he doesn't even hear the motor whirring sound, there's something else going on.
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Nice drawing, what software do you use? I normally use TinyCad for just scratching out a schematic.
That was a freeware drawing program which I won't identify as it doesn't "play well" with PCB layout software suitable for generating physical PCBs. With the likes of OSH Park and similar low-cost PCB manufacturing houses that you were instrumental in introducing to the OGR community, I suppose schematics like this should be presented in a more share-able form.
Good point Stan, perhaps I should start drawing then in DipTrace, that gives people a starting point.
stan2004 posted:That was a freeware drawing program which I won't identify as it doesn't "play well" with PCB layout software suitable for generating physical PCBs. .
I use Express SCH and Express PCB freeware for my needs. Works OK and I can make new schematic parts by modifying old ones (renaming part and moving pins around the rectangle to minimize line crossovers.) The schematic and PCB outputs seem to be unique proprietary to Express, but works well enough to get me by for small "simple" boards, as long as I am not designing 737MAX flight boxes .
I'm glad I had nothing to do with the 737MAX, that's quite a fiasco! My aerospace projects were successes.
I looked at Express PCB some time back when I was shopping for a design package. The fact that they don't output Gerber files and you're tied to their overpriced PCB service killed it for me!
To each his own as to the whether it's worth spending ~$10 for a metal gear. Speaking from ignorance, I'd think the metal gear from NWSL is not a custom component and NWSL stumbled upon a source for a compatible gear. My guess is the metal gear is used in some high-volume consumer product and it's "just" a matter of finding it! 1.5mm (2.0mm, etc.) diameter shafts are standard for these low-cost DC motors.
I notice that the MTH gates is scheduled for "re-release" shortly. I'm sure they've been pestered with complaints about lift mechanism reliability. I wonder if they did anything!